Beginner Shave Soap Advice Please :-)

[Horsey031]

Hi everyone, so this is my 1st post after my introduction post. The reason I joined this site is because I want to start making my own have soap.

I have done a bit of reading on recipes on the forum and elsewhere and have put my own recipe together mainly based on the supplies that are available to me. Since this is my first attempt I would really appreciate if you kind folk could look at my recipe and let me know if I am on the right track. Any guidance would be appreciated, especially if I should be adding something, leaving something out or substituting an ingredient.

I am doing a hot process since I have read this is easier for stearic acid recipes. True or False?

I have decided I want a bit of softness to my shave soap so I went 80% NaOH and 20% KOH. Is this okay?

Total Weight - 100 grams (for ease of reference)

Water % of oil - 38%
Superfat - 5%

NaOH - 10.5g
KOH - 3.7g

Stearic Acid - 50g (50%)
Castor Oil - 35g (35%)
Avocado Oil - 5g (5%)
Coconut Oil - 5g (5%)
Olive Oil - 5g (5%)

* I might add a small amount of Bentonite clay for slip, I am aware of the claims they dull your razor but I use a safety razor and I replace my blades after every 2 shaves.


Lastly what can I replace stearic acid with? I have read soy wax is a good alternative.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[amd]

For shave soap, I don't think you'll want to replace the stearic acid, that's what gives the lather its stability.

 

[SideDoorSoaps]

I’d add some butters. I use Shea and cocoa butter to lower my stearic acid. Also, I do actually use more water in my recipe because I do use clay and it sucks up some of the water it seems and soap cooler because it seems my shave soap seizes if it’s too hot. My husband also uses safety razors so he doesn’t mind the clay dulling his blade. Good luck with your dual lye soap! I do a 95% NaOH and 5% KOH. It works out alright.

 

[Horsey031]

I’d add some butters. I use Shea and cocoa butter to lower my stearic acid. Also, I do actually use more water in my recipe because I do use clay and it sucks up some of the water it seems and soap cooler because it seems my shave soap seizes if it’s too hot. My husband also uses safety razors so he doesn’t mind the clay dulling his blade. Good luck with your dual lye soap! I do a 95% NaOH and 5% KOH. It works out alright.

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely increase water with the addition of bentonite clay.

What is the reason you would decrease stearic acid with butters? I was under the impression you needed a lot of stearic acid for the creaminess?

 

[IrishLass]

What is the reason you would decrease stearic acid with butters? I was under the impression you needed a lot of stearic acid for the creaminess?

Butters have a naturally high content of stearic acid. Although they won't bump up the stearic acid content of your soap's fatty acid profile as high as when you add straight stearic acid to your formula, they do bump it up nevertheless, and they are much easier to work with than straight stearic, which is quite the bear. I use a combo of butters, tallow and straight stearic in my shave soap that I make for my hubby, and I only need to use 28% straight stearic to have a good stearic % content to achieve a lovely, creamy, stable shaving lather.


IrishLass

 

[Dean]

Hi everyone, so this is my 1st post after my introduction post. The reason I joined this site is because I want to start making my own have soap.

I have done a bit of reading on recipes on the forum and elsewhere and have put my own recipe together mainly based on the supplies that are available to me. Since this is my first attempt I would really appreciate if you kind folk could look at my recipe and let me know if I am on the right track. Any guidance would be appreciated, especially if I should be adding something, leaving something out or substituting an ingredient.

I am doing a hot process since I have read this is easier for stearic acid recipes. True or False?

I have decided I want a bit of softness to my shave soap so I went 80% NaOH and 20% KOH. Is this okay?

Total Weight - 100 grams (for ease of reference)

Water % of oil - 38%
Superfat - 5%

NaOH - 10.5g
KOH - 3.7g

Stearic Acid - 50g (50%)
Castor Oil - 35g (35%)
Avocado Oil - 5g (5%)
Coconut Oil - 5g (5%)
Olive Oil - 5g (5%)

* I might add a small amount of Bentonite clay for slip, I am aware of the claims they dull your razor but I use a safety razor and I replace my blades after every 2 shaves.


Lastly what can I replace stearic acid with? I have read soy wax is a good alternative.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Is ur goal to make vegan or palm free soap? If so, Its best go with SW.

 

[SideDoorSoaps]

I had to go look at my recipe because I’ve adjusted it a bit over the years to make soaping it a little easier. I actually use only 11% SA, 15% Cocoa Butter, 24% castor, 10% each coconut oil and olive and 30% Palm.

I couldn’t think of why my recipe was so hard off the top of my head. I’m due to make some shaving soap for my husband and a few friends.

 

[Horsey031]

Is ur goal to make vegan or palm free soap? If so, Its best go with SW.

Hi Dean, I would prefer to go the vegan route so tallow is probably not for me. I don't mind to use palm oil. I take it SW is Soy Wax, for some reason I am finding it very hard to find this where I live so maybe stearic acid or palm oil is the way to go.

 

[Horsey031]

I had to go look at my recipe because I’ve adjusted it a bit over the years to make soaping it a little easier. I actually use only 11% SA, 15% Cocoa Butter, 24% castor, 10% each coconut oil and olive and 30% Palm.

I couldn’t think of why my recipe was so hard off the top of my head. I’m due to make some shaving soap for my husband and a few friends.

Thanks for the advice. Wow so I can see my recipe has way more stearic acid than yours. Am I correct when I say you brought this amount down by using 15% Cacao Butter and 30% Palm Oil?