A Cream Soap Tutorial

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I want to make a face scrub to help with my breakouts and I was directed to this tutorial. I'm not sure if this has already been answered, but is there a good calculator for this? I have allergies to certain oils (nuts) so I'll have to use a few different oils from what you use in your recipe and I want to make sure I get it right. The calculators I've found (Summerbeemeadow) call for way less glycerin (none except at the supercream stage) than this recipe and also a lot more water. So I'm a little lost.


It also doesn't call for any stearic acid in the batch, only at the super cream stage.
 
Glycerin doesn't saponify, so you wouldn't ever want to sub it for a fat/oil.

Stearic acid added after the cook should remain pretty much as stearic acid, assuming you formulate the recipe with some amount of lye discount. Added as a supercream ingredient, stearic acid thickens the soap, but it doesn't itself become soap. This is a special case in soaping because this supercream stearic acid should not be included in the fats that you want to saponify.

Bear in mind the makers of the Summerbeemeadow calc chose certain parameters on which to base their cream soap calculations, but their parameters are not the only ones that will create a successful cream soap. There is a fair bit of variation amongst cream soap recipes.
 
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Glycerin doesn't saponify, so you wouldn't ever want to sub it for a fat/oil.

Stearic acid added after the cook should remain pretty much as stearic acid, assuming you formulate the recipe with some amount of lye discount. Added as a supercream ingredient, stearic acid thickens the soap, but it doesn't itself become soap. This is a special case in soaping because this supercream stearic acid should not be included in the fats that you want to saponify.

Bear in mind the makers of the Summerbeemeadow calc chose certain parameters on which to base their cream soap calculations, but their parameters are not the only ones that will create a successful cream soap. There is a fair bit of variation amongst cream soap recipes.

If glycerin doesn't saponify, why is it added in the oils stage in the recipes I'm finding? And I should've worded it the other way around, subbing other oils for the glycerin in the recipe.
 
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"...subbing other oils for the glycerin..."

I suppose you could try that; there's nothing saying it won't work. I personally haven't tried it, so I can't say if it would be a bust or a good thing.

My guess is that adding more fat in place of glycerin might have two possible downsides. As superfat goes up, the lather goes down -- even faster than adding extra glycerin. Also the added fat, especially if it's a liquid fat or low melt point solid fat, may loosen the texture of the cream soap too much, even to the point where the soap separates.
 
The glycerin is adding a conditioning agent to the cream soap without diminishing the lather to the same degree as that amount of oil would. The stearic acid is truly the backbone of cream soap so you don't want to eliminate it in the recipe. Play with the percentages to see if you find a level you're happy with but make the basic recipe first and then see what you want to change or play with.
 
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I am so disappointed in myself! I tried the recipe, got to the cream part, added the extra glycerin and steric, set the timer for 30 minuites and fell asleep exhausted from my day. I woke up this morning expecting to find the crock pot off but it was still on low! I added a little water and mashed it in but I think it's a bust. I. Tried a hunk in the sink and no bubbles. I am going out to church to pray for wisdom and patience. :(
 
My cream soap doesn't bubble a lot either. Remember, cream soap is a high stearic soap, so it's naturally going to have a dense creamy lather that will develop more slowly.

Lindy may have more words of wisdom about what to do with your batch, since she's the "cream soap queen". I'll just encourage you to not give up. Cooking all night might make the soap a little drier due to water loss, but if the batch were mine, I'd just be ready to add a bit more water and have patience when mixing.
 
Not sure if it's relevant but I was putzing around with a cream like experiment and wound up with and accidentally making a temperature controlled soap. It only suds and foams at around 80F and then takes off the warmer it gets.
 
I just as well whip it anyway. It will not be snow white but well see in a few months! I don't have enough attention span for hot process!
 
I find all soap lathers better at warmer temperatures. I find that cream soap does not give you big bubbles unless you add a surfactant and even then you will find that the lather ends up being more creamy than big bubbles but it would start out with the first bubbles being bigger due to the flash bubbles of surfactants. If you were to do that you could start making your own foaming bath butter.
 
I find that trying to melt the stearic without some glycerin is a nightmare. Way easier to melt together.

On my quest to go total Palm free...I made some emulsified sugar/salt scrub this weekend & subbed out the stearic with soywax & it's lovely. I'm going after cream soap without stearic but subbing the SW this week. Small batch. Fingers crossed. Will remember to add glycerin in stages although may not need as much fluid.
 
Stearic Acid is the bones of Cream Soap. I don't know what you will end up with. BTW when using stearic add it to your oils to melt.
 
Soy wax is supposedly 80% stearic acid. The "stearic" we get from suppliers isn't 100% stearic acid it is apparently a mix I believe of palmitic also which makes sense since much of it is coming from Palm oil. 100% stearic is tech grade is mondo pricey. There was a whole conversation about this on another board. Someone was getting ocd about his calculations. I'm just trying to put my chemistry hat back on & get away from using more Palm. I know it's not that realistic it's in our food to but that's another battle...

I use glycerine for stearic instead of oil to melt because technically glycerin is an alcohol & will help 'dissolve 'it a bit better. Same reason I use a little Everclear when I'm rebatching makes my soap batter completely smooth like real milled soap.
Wow. That was all relatively coherent. Adderall apparently just kicked in
 
Soy wax is supposedly 80% stearic acid. The "stearic" we get from suppliers isn't 100% stearic acid it is apparently a mix I believe of palmitic also which makes sense since much of it is coming from Palm oil. 100% stearic is tech grade is mondo pricey. There was a whole conversation about this on another board. Someone was getting ocd about his calculations. I'm just trying to put my chemistry hat back on & get away from using more Palm. I know it's not that realistic it's in our food to but that's another battle...
That OCD person was me. :)

It's not true that real SA is more expensive. This is a source:

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/stearic-acid-nf.html

Note the CAS number 57-11-4 which is (relatively) pure SA and not the palmitic/stearic blend. That one is often advertised as "triple pressed vegetable" and is CAS 67701-03-5. The latter is said to be "40-60% palmitic acid."

Source Sigma-Aldritch
 
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