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Soap Making Forum > The Soap Making & Craft Forum > Beginners Soap Making Forum > What to use as antioxidants?
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:47 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Brynhilde View Post
Have you checked the norwegian netstore sunvita? If you buy there, you don't have to worry about customs.
Tusen takk I am looking at that store just now. And they have a lot of different things. Not very cheap, but considered the potential very high customs fee by ordering abroad, and that one really should support Norwegian businesses, it's maybe better to buy from Sunvita than from abroad.


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Old 03-24-2017, 08:50 PM   #42
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I don't mean to burst your soap bubble or anything , but just be aware that the natural colors from juices are not pH stable enough to last very long in lye-based soap without having a little 'help' from pH-stable colorants such as micas or oxides or ultramarines. I've made several batches of carrot soap and also cucumber soap (I juice the peel and all to get that lovely emerald green), and the colors do morph over time. The lovely orange morphs to a muddy color and the cucumber to a khaki-like color. But if I add a little orange mica and TD to the carrot juice or a little chromium hydroxide green and TD to the cucumber juice, the colors stay true.

Also- the antioxidant levels in juices are not concentrated enough to be able to do the job demanded of soap such as ROE or BHT would do.


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Thank you Who wants brownish, muddy and dull colours, so yes, that was a very useful tip to add some pigments or micas. I am also concerned about the scent, if that will morph into something unpleasant? Like rotten smell or anything.


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Old 03-24-2017, 10:03 PM   #43
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My mama always said, "If ya can't fight 'em, join 'em!" So I'm joining in on the HIJACK to colorants! YAY! Hopefully I won't raise too much of a fuss...

When I first started soaping, since I couldn't afford fancy colorants, I used CRAYOLA crayons to color CP/HP soap. They not only add color, but seem to add hardness and lather as well (that part could be just my imagination. LOL) Cerulean Blue is gorgeous and my personal favorite! They create awesome jewel tones in transparent soap.

- Use a whole (3”) Crayola in 3 lb batch; or 1” ppo.
- Toss in at trace in CP or at the end of the cook in HP.
- Melts easily. Let set a minute before stirring in.
- Some colors work better than others. See Miller’s site for details. Scroll down the page about 2/3 of the way.

http://millersoap.com/soapingred.html

MORE INFO

1) I use only CRAYOLA Crayons. According to Smith-Binney, the manufacturer, Crayolas are certified non-toxic to assure the products contain no known toxic or harmful substances in sufficient quantities to be harmful to the human body, even if ingested. To my mind, and with all due respect to those who would disagree, this is just me -- if they’re safe enough for toddlers to chew on, they’re safe enough to soap with.

2) The best time to buy them is the month or so before school starts. I get the 16-count box of the Original colors. I picked up a dozen boxes for 25˘ each at an Office Depot BACK-TO-SCHOOL SALE one year.

3) Label Ingredients: Paraffin wax, stearic acid and powder color pigment.
Each of those ingredients is GRAS (Generally Regarded As Safe) and they are found in any number of B & B (Bath & Beauty) products.

4) Usage Rate: 1” per pound of oils. Be sure to peel off the wrapper! LOL

5) Grate really fine to mix colors.

6) How to Use - (Do this before you start the recipe.) For 1 pound of soap: Pour 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a small microwave safe dish. Add 1” of Crayola (whole, pieces, or grated). Nuke on high in the microwave for 20 seconds. Let sit for a few seconds, then mix thoroughly. Warm again if necessary. Add at trace (CP) or after cook (HP).

NOTE: If you only need a teaspoon or so for a small batch, the rest solidifies, keeps well, and easily melts again for another time. (I like to do this with White Crayola for my Wannabe White soaps).
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Old Yesterday, 03:05 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Rune View Post
Thank you Who wants brownish, muddy and dull colours, so yes, that was a very useful tip to add some pigments or micas. I am also concerned about the scent, if that will morph into something unpleasant? Like rotten smell or anything.

There is no smell whatsoever in the end product. I also have made beer soap, and there is no beer smell, or perhaps way to subtle in it. Same with the carrot puree. I normally use a FO that will complement what I believe the vegetables or fruits are.

Also I wanted to ask more experience people here. I was thinking about this thread and the fact that the antioxidants do not carry to the end product, but if that is so, then how come safflower, or avocado oil that are rich in vitamin E for example, does become part of the soap after saponification? Nothing of the fruits survive? Nor even its nutritional value?

Please forgive my ignorance, hopefully is not a silly question. Chemistry was never my thing ....
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Old Yesterday, 03:42 AM   #45
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What is BHT?
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Old Yesterday, 04:14 AM   #46
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What is BHT?
You can find the info here http://www.makingcosmetics.com/BHT_p_52.html
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Old Yesterday, 04:22 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Zany_in_CO View Post
When I first started soaping, since I couldn't afford fancy colorants, I used CRAYOLA crayons to color CP/HP soap. They not only add color, but seem to add hardness and lather as well (that part could be just my imagination. LOL) Cerulean Blue is gorgeous and my personal favorite! They create awesome jewel tones in transparent soap.

- Use a whole (3”) Crayola in 3 lb batch; or 1” ppo.
- Toss in at trace in CP or at the end of the cook in HP.
- Melts easily. Let set a minute before stirring in.
- Some colors work better than others. See Miller’s site for details. Scroll down the page about 2/3 of the way.

http://millersoap.com/soapingred.html
CRAYOLA!! I feel like an angel choir just sang out in the back of my head.. This is awesome news for the newbie here!!
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Old Yesterday, 12:38 PM   #48
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I would never ever use crayons. Just because you can doesn't mean you should. Just my opinion. Yes, they are non toxic, but, they are not made for skin use.


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