I got to the home page just fine now. http://soaphutch.com/
Rich has a notice on the front page.
Special Notice! - 12/15/10
SoapHutch will be suspending production for new orders of Soap Molds and Cutters on December 31, 2010 until April 1, 2011.
You have to use at least minimum water required in a soap calc for the lye to dissolve. Otherwise you will end up with undissolved lye crystals in your soap with dire consequences. Water is used as a carrier and it is needed for handmade soaps.
Most of it does get saponified. Lye does not discriminate. I would not add any oil after the cook. It might not incorporate and the LS will end up cloudy.
I would get a thermometer. I've been making soap for a long time and no longer use it, but I know if I touch the side of the pot and it's warm but not hot, I know I'm ready to go.
There is no need to add Vit. E to soap as it will get eaten by the lye. You could add it to a batch of soap after it has been cooked though if you want. Start basic! Then experiment from there. Take a look at Kathy Miller soap for some recipes. Always run ANY recipe through a lye calculator.
Water evaporates as the soap cures. Unless you added way more then necessary, the water will cure out and the soap should harden. I won't use alcohol in CP soap as it makes the soap seize. The exception is beer which I boil off the alcohol. Always run any recipe through a lye calculator. The...
If you know exactly how much oil or butter you have missed, go ahead and add it while the soap is still hot and mix very, very well. If it's just a small batch, I would chuck it and start over. Why waste additional ingredients in case something still ends up wrong?