Pic of my rice cake soap...lol
Zany's no slime castile
- Thread starter Zany_in_CO
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LOL - been there done that!
We call those "Rustic".
Here's my HP - Zany's no slime Castile. Made about 1 1/2 months ago. I tried one the other day and wowza - fantastic suds!
What water lye ratio did you use?
I made this HP - so I used the default water in SoapCalc. When I make CP Castille, I use a 1.5:1 water to lye ratio.
Garden Gives Me Joy
Well-Known Member
Eager to try. Notice Zany uses Pomace. I imagine 100%. Does everyone else also use 100% Pomace .... and or EVOO with the salt?
Do ppl add citric acid to the lye water (along with the necessary NaOH adjustment)? Would the citric acid prevent shower tile scum? Should I also consider it to prevent DOS .... if that is even an issue with?
Do ppl add citric acid to the lye water (along with the necessary NaOH adjustment)? Would the citric acid prevent shower tile scum? Should I also consider it to prevent DOS .... if that is even an issue with?
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Zany said they use pomace, I think, and a lot of people have said they use evoo. I just made a test batch with CA in it last week and I'm trying really hard not to play with it yet
Here's a thread someone started about adding citric acid to this recipe, there are also links in it to more citric acid use resources:
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/citric-acid-in-zanys-no-slime-castile.73915/
People do whatever they like. Personally I add citric acid and the necessary NaOH to compensate, but it is up to you and what kind of soap you want. I highly suggest you try yourself by making small batches of soap of 1-2 pounds. That’s the only way you will know what you like. And it’s the best way to avoid wasting a lot of product.
Thank you! I will retry this
My experience has been that citric acid and faux seawater (salt + baking soda) in the same recipe makes the soap soft and slimy. Even after a considerable cure. If you go ahead and do it, I'd love to hear about your results.
soapmakermonica
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If you want no slime, don't add a slimy oil like pumice the waste of the olive oil. I only use food grade olive oil and when I could not afford the best I still only used pure food grade oo. Never slimy. Now I am blessed and have a large customer base and use organic extra virgin olive oil and organic extra virgin coconut oil. Distilled filtered water, and food grade sodium hydroxide. Anything else will bring down your bubbles and bubble content is what cleans, bubbles surround dirt and evoo contains oleic acid along with glycerin. Don't waste your money on poor grade ingredients they only lead to soap scum and having to explain your soap. Make something that out performs the regular bar and who knows you may make a name for yourself too!
I don't care to use extra virgin olive oil, in any of my soaps because it tints my colors and I like to make pretty detailed soaps. Pomace, I would not use. I disagree with you though, using non organic oils/butters doesn't necessarily contribute to soap scum. That is a result of soap mixing with your hard water. I personally add citric acid to my lye water in all my soaps (to create sodium citrate) which helps with soap scum as I have very hard water.
soapmakermonica
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I don't have any discoloration it creates "The White Bar". I am not saying non-organic butter or oil cause soap scum, I am saying pumice causes soap scum it is the dregs of the olive oil. No redeeming properties. And Yes water has minerals, I only use distilled water. Citric acid however changes your ph! So not sure why you would choose to use hard water? And continue to "fix it"?
My formula makes an incredible lather, makes sensitive skin happy can be used daily as a shampoo, body, shave, and facial soap, great for infants and I make liquid cold-processed aloe shampoo, body washes, and facial soap with the scraps that I liquify with horsetail, aloe vera powder, and colloidal oatmeal.
When you add citric acid to your lye water it becomes sodium citrate (it does not lower the pH of soap, it increases your superfat). You add citric acid because the water is hard - not to create hard water. Generally when you have hard water, it means you have a lot of minerals in the water, sodium citrate binds to those minerals, which reduces the soap scum.
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you are referring to "pomace" olive oil, not pumice, a stone or powder used for exfoliation. Yes?
I posted this in the “What Soapy Thing” thread, but thought I should post here too. I made a version of @Zany_in_CO No Slime Castile yesterday and cut it this AM (15 hrs later after gelling on a heating pad). Came out beautifully and a sliver lathered amazingly! I didn’t use 100% OO but instead used 80% OO (Costco), 15% CO, 5% Castor along with the Faux Sea Water and followed the instructions exactly for lye:water ratio etc. I did add fragrance marinated in a couple tsp of Kaolin Clay. I’m very happy with the outcome and can’t wait to test this as the weeks go by.
Would you mind sharing the hearing pad technique? I feel like this soap is so much better gelled but I can't master CPOP.
Hope
I put the Loaf of soap on top of a heating pad set on high. Spritz with alcohol. I cover it with a cardboard box (with the bottom cut out) and then place towels over the box. I check on it frequently and when I see it is in gel I turn off the heating pad. Depending on the recipe and the FO used it could get quite hot pretty quickly so you do need to babysit it and remove it from the heat if it gets too hot. I use an infrared thermometer and check the temperature during the process too. Here are some pics of the process.
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kevenaeakin
Active Member
Putting salt into the lye gives a harder bar. Dissolve the salt in the water before adding the lie and it will harden the soap but don't put too much or it will cause it to crack and crumble.
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