Zany's no slime castile

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This is a tried and true recipe that I've made several times. Others have tried it with excellent results. Be sure to keep the bar high and dry between uses by using a soap-saver-type soap dish. Tweak to your heart's delight! (Like, do I even need to say that?! :D)

ZANY’S NO SLIME OLIVE OIL CASTILE
Ingredients: Olive oil, water, sea salt, sodium bicarbonate.

1) MAKE FAUX SEAWATER - Use for water portion of the lye solution.
1 quart warm water
1 Tablespoon sea salt
1 Tablespoon sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)


I make up a quart at a time and store it in the fridge until I need it.
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2) MAKE LYE SOLUTION - Mix and allow to cool to 35°C - 40°C (100°F - 110°F).
1.7:1 Water to Lye Ratio (Note decimal and colon)
0% Super Fat/Lye Discount

Notes: I’ve tried 2:1 and 1.5:1. 1.5:1 gets almost too hard and 1:2 is okay but a bit slimey, so, for me, 1.7:1 is the ideal. Olive oil is high in unsaponifiables; so 0% SF works best to reduce slippery slime.
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Prepare lye solution and set it in the sink to cool. Weigh olive oil into soap pot. Warm to 35°C - 40°C (100°F - 110°F). Combine when lye and oils are within -12°C (10°F) of each other. SB on and off to emulsion stage (5 - 25 minutes, depending on grade of olive oil.) Slowly pour into mold. Tap to remove bubbles. Spritz lightly with alcohol. Cover with plastic wrap. Insulate. Leave soap undisturbed for 12-24 hours.
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UNMOLD in 12-24 hours
CUT Day 2
CURE Ready to ship in 2 weeks. 6 weeks is best. The longer the cure the better the soap.
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Unscented, this soap is suitable for babies, sensitive skin, and for cancer patients undergoing radiation. Add 5% castor oil and 10% coconut oil for bubbles and an even milder soap.

If adding fragrance, add 0.85 oz. FO or 0.5% EO /PPO (Per 500 grams) to the castor oil an hour or so ahead of time (or overnight) and a teaspoon PPO of dry ingredient of choice -- corn starch, oat flour, arrowroot powder, White Kaolin Clay, etc. -- to help “stick” the fragrance.

VARIATIONS: Infuse Calendula Petals (yellow) or Bay Leaves (green) in oil ahead of time. Strain. Use up to 40% in the batch to add mildness and color.

I am a real newbie and want to be sure I understand correctly. 1.7:1 would be (for example) 17 oz. water to 10m oz. lye? Many of the recipes I have tried are (again, for example) 10oz. Water to 5 oz. lye). Am I understanding you Correctly? Many thanks for,your patience.
 
Just as a matter of interest for fellow saponifiers- I found these videos on traditional Castille soap making in Syria and Palestine. Allepo Soap is from tree to completion - they're pretty amazing.
(Alleppo Soap-no sound)
(Nabulus)


Thank you SO SO Much for these videos!! Loved them ... you have no idea.

Only u could get away with making ash look good!

I know, right?? Everything Miss Moose (@KiwiMoose ) touches seems to turn to gold!
 
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That all makes me think that I am not too badly located for this: Springwater bubbling to the surface a few hundred metres away in two directions; several crystal clear mountain streams nearby; and clean seawater a couple km away in several directions.

Sounds like you're in Heaven!!
 
Testing my little batches from New Year's Day. The first picture is 100% OO. This took a bit longer to lather but pretty decent for a 3 day old baby. The second picture is 80% OO, 15% CO, 5% castor. This lathered easily. No other additives in either batch. They are nicely hard already and pass the zap test. I'm impressed
View attachment 34807 View attachment 34808

:okay: !! I'm gonna try @Zany_in_CO 's no-slime castille today, but I like your additions/substitutions very much... I've gotten completely attached to castor oil in every recipe ... though we probably can't call this a true "castille" any longer. :cool:
 
BTW...although my bar is new, there is no sludge issue with frequent use.

I'm finding the same thing with my new shampoo bars...after 4 days cure, I put one in the shower because I just couldn't wait. It's been a week since then and every time I go to the shower, I expect a goopy mess (which would be NBD, as I have 13 more bars....) but it's dried out and firm and fragrant! Very unexpected.
 
:okay: !! I'm gonna try @Zany_in_CO 's no-slime castille today, but I like your additions/substitutions very much... I've gotten completely attached to castor oil in every recipe ... though we probably can't call this a true "castille" any longer. :cool:
Nope, not a castile. To be fair, the recipe tweak was at Zany's suggestion as well, although I used 15% coconut rather than 10%. Go for it and good luck!!
 
When my high AO bars were dried to damp (not wet) the drying oleic snot would have this very unappealing hairy-sticky texture.
Ah yes! It's been a good long while, but I do remember that. Ugh.

Im wondering if @Zany_in_CO ’s recipe will reach legendary status...
hee hee... I'm already a legend... in my own mind! ;)

...I'm gonna try @Zany_in_CO 's no-slime castille today, but I like your additions/substitutions very much... I've gotten completely attached to castor oil in every recipe ... though we probably can't call this a true "castille" any longer. :cool:
Two things:
1) Don't over do the castor or you will get "sticky" bars. This recipe works well with 5% castor tops. It boosts lather, which, as you can see from Dean's Post #100, it could use a boost perhaps but doesn't really need it.

2) Dirk's Castile (Ingredients: Coconut Oil) went to court to define the term.
Castile. By today's definition, Castile refers to soaps made without animal fats.
Kirk's is made with premium coconut oil. Dr. Bronner's Castile soap (Ingredients: Water, Organic Coconut Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Organic Palm Kernel Oil, Organic Olive Oil, Organic Hemp Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Citric Acid, Tocopherol) falls in that category as well.

Within the soap making community, however, "true castile" means 100% olive oil. That's why we came up with the term "bastile" to denote mostly olive oil, usually with a little castor and/or coconut thrown in.
 
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Probably. I say, go for it -- and let us know how it turns out.

Good question, Dawni! I'm no expert on HP, so I'm not the best person to answer your question. Your call... I suggest you trust your own judgment. ;)
Trying it now! If it works I'll post here so if others wanna trouble themselves to HP they'd have some sort of reference, even if it is from a novice hehehe
 
Two things:
1) Don't over do the castor or you will get "sticky" bars. This recipe works well with 5% castor tops.

2) Dirk's Castile (Ingredients: Coconut Oil) went to court to define the term.
Kirk's is made with premium coconut oil. Dr. Bronner's Castile soap (Ingredients: Water, Organic Coconut Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Organic Palm Kernel Oil, Organic Olive Oil, Organic Hemp Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Citric Acid, Tocopherol) falls in that category as well.

Within the soap making community, however, "true castile" means 100% olive oil. That's why we came up with the term "bastile" to denote mostly olive oil, usually with a little castor and/or coconut thrown in.

Thanks for the castor oil tip, Cee. I didn't realize the Bronner's wasn't fully castile (guess it's a bastile, then). I didn't make it yet, though -- I have some cavity molds coming on Monday.

By the way, I've called you twice in the last 4 or 5 days. :rolleyes: Your answering machine was lonely...
 
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Also, I wanted to be the odd woman out and try to HP this but I have a question regarding the liquid amount. Will 1.7:1 be ok for HP? Or should I use slightly more water? I don't lift the lid often btw, just once to stir when 50% of it has gelled, and then when it's done.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions :)

OK so soap is in the pot, and it's looking good so far, right now I have a small island of ungelled soap so after posting this I'm gonna go run n stir that n finish it.

I doubt it'll be a very fluid batter after cooking but since I don't plan to do anything fancy, I kept the liquid ratio to 1.9:1 which is only slightly more than the original. I'll update once I've molded.
 
Cooked, molded, unmolded and cut! Pics here hehehe

I love this recipe! The only thing that took a lot of time ws the measuring lol

Thanks so much @Zany_in_CO for sharing this!

Where's @Chris_S and @Zing? I have to tell them I did not need to do a lot of smacking and jiggling with this one, and look, no air pockets! Hehehe
 
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A basic question (I am going to try this today... hopefully, if I get done with snow shoveling): @Zany_in_CO says that the water:lye ratio is 1.7:1, but that already includes the salt+sodium-bicarbonate added for the faux sea water, right?
I mean, if I have 10g lye, I need to measure out 17g faux sea water, and NOT 17g plain water to which I also add the appropriate amount of NaCl+NaHCO3 -- right?
Maybe I'm just thinking too much about this and it doesn't make that much of a difference anyway....
 
A basic question (I am going to try this today... hopefully, if I get done with snow shoveling): @Zany_in_CO says that the water:lye ratio is 1.7:1, but that already includes the salt+sodium-bicarbonate added for the faux sea water, right?
I mean, if I have 10g lye, I need to measure out 17g faux sea water, and NOT 17g plain water to which I also add the appropriate amount of NaCl+NaHCO3 -- right?
Maybe I'm just thinking too much about this and it doesn't make that much of a difference anyway....


1.7 includes the salt an soda.
 
Thank you!
Now to that shoveling.......

I recommend testing a small batch of soap. I made two test bars. I and others had good results but a cpl folks had issues. I made a 1/3 batch of sea water...1 tsp each salt and soda and 10.66 oz water/liquid.
 
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