your fav emuslifier & why??

[eden]

hey gang - I don't do lotions to sell (anymore) but love to play when I can find a little time ...so I'm wondering amoung other things ...what is your emulsifier of choice? What do you like about it?

Years ago I used Ewax NF but eventually I found it feeling too waxy ...I have used many others over the years - including NatraMulse (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) ...is okay ...like it but don't love it ...I like the one sold by WSSP as Soft-n-Silky (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20) ...I'm wantingto try EmulPro (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) and EmulSoft (Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate) - that last one being rather costly - has anyone tried either of these?
...I have also tried the Olivates (such as OliveEm 1000) and kinda like those(that?) but that one gives me a little trouble ...I'm always after the silkiest softest velvety feel I can achieve ...which I know other additives can also bring about - so stabilty, softness, glide and no soaping are my biggest desires ...I don't have a strong understanding of the chemistry involved so don't get too techical on me LOL! And thanks for any input!

 

[IrishLass]

Well, you won't get anything technical from me! I consider myself a lotion newb with much still to learn since I've only been making lotions for 2 years and only for myself for the most part. Every now and then I might gift one to my sis or to a friend, but that's about it.

Anyway, I haven't gone too fancy on my ingredients or branched out much beyond my 3 favorite tried and true, fairly basic recipes (one is my tweak of Bandi's famous OOH Lotion, the second is my tweak of CindyM's emulsified body butter, and the third is my own formula of lard lotion).

I've only ever used Polawax and BTMS as my emulsifiers to date, but I really like them. At least I have nothing to complain about them as I've never had a lotion separate on me or anything bad like that (so far).

I use cetyl alcohol for my thickener, and for a humectant I use either honeyquat, sodium lactate or sodium PCA, or sometimes I'll sub in hydrolized oats. My choice of humectants is about as fancy schmancy as I've ever gone.

It'll be interesting to hear what others use.


IrishLass

 

[Hazel]

Eden -

Have you looked at Susan Barclay-Nichol's site? She gives lots of info on emulsifiers.

http://www.swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/

I mainly use ewax - one is Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 and the other is WSP's Soft & Silky which you said you've used.

I have used Glyceryl Monostearate and it really helped to produce a better glide in my lotion. I bought it from Snowdrift.

http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/emulsifiers.html

 

[eden]

thanks Hazel ...there is so much info there ...got reading about the HLB scale ...made my head spin ... but it does shed some light - a light that I am sure will get brighter! my mind needs to process it a little at a time ...leads me wonder ...
...why don't manufacturers recommend the % of the oil phase, that the emulsifier should be, rather than the overall ratio?? After all ...doesn't it depend more on the size of the oil phase?? That would sure help alot!

 

[Hazel]

You're welcome.

Snowdrift bases the amount of Glyceryl Monostearate on oil weight.

The others might be based upon total amount of the batch since emulsifers combine the water and oil. If you base the amount just on the oil weight, then you probably wouldn't have enough in it to create a stable emulsion. Then you'd end up with water rising to the top of the bottle. I think this might explain my watery lotion I did back in the spring. :roll:

It's been awhile since I've read about emulsifiers. I probably should go back and read up on them.

 

[MychelleC]

I use Polawax in most of my basic lotions because it is so reliable. I love Ecomulse/Natramulse/Ritamulse (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) in scrubs and bars, but find it too draggy and dry for lotions. For hair products it's BTMS (behentrimonium methosulfate and cetearyl alcohol) and I use it in conjunction with the Ecomulse or Polawax in scrubs, body butters, and bars. It is also extremely reliable but can be dry feeling on skin. I use Emulpro as LotionPro 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) from Lotioncrafter. This is a nice, emollient emulsifier that is also reliable, but does create emulsions that are thinner than most. I love it in body butter but add a stabilizer to the water phase (xantham or guar gums) and often use BTMS as a co-emulsifier for added thickness. I love playing with different emulsifiers, but when just makeing a simple lotion or cream I do tend to reach for the Polawax first.