Would this recipe work? need advice

Discussion in 'Recipe Feedback' started by Spryng, Oct 9, 2019.

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  1. Oct 12, 2019 #21

    Spryng

    Spryng

    Spryng

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    That's a great idea! What will changing those numbers do? help it harden faster or bubble more or something?
     
  2. Oct 13, 2019 #22

    Zany_in_CO

    Zany_in_CO

    Zany_in_CO

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    I'm not PJ, but lowering the coconut will make it less drying. Upping the OO and almond will make it more conditioning (better for sensitive skin). Dropping the castor to 5% is just right in most cases, more than that may cause the soap to feel sticky. :thumbs:
     
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  3. Oct 13, 2019 #23

    TeresaGG

    TeresaGG

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    You don't really need to buy a SOAP mold for smaller batches. Try plastic "leftovers" containers just look for the triangle with the #5 in it on the bottom. Even a cardboard box lined with parchment paper is fine.
    https://www.lovinsoap.com/2015/12/how-to-pick-containers-for-making-soap/
    I wouldn't use the plastic for food after though. I use a permanent marker and write SOAP on the outside.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
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  4. Oct 14, 2019 #24

    Spryng

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    Thank you all so much! I am feeling much more comfortable with the lye calculator and general tips on starting out. You all are amazing!
     
  5. Oct 14, 2019 #25

    MGM

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    I do small (9oz of oil) batches in 500ml (pint) egg white or milk cartons with the top cut off. No lining, and it's easy to peel off the carton to unmold. I even often peel off in stages, if I'm not sure how long the bar takes to harden. Lots of different containers to make soap in, especially for tester bars.
     
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  6. Oct 14, 2019 #26

    Michele50

    Michele50

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    Lol, that's what I'm getting ready to do. A buttermilk carton--don't like that clabbered milk myself but my hubby does. He drinks it and I use the bottom part for soaping when I to make small batches. This time I'm going to see if placing a clear plastic bag will allow me to pull it out and re-use the carton bottom. It's the same plastic bags I use to line my huge squeeze bottles so I don't have to clean soap batter out of them.
     
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  7. Oct 28, 2019 #27

    TheGecko

    TheGecko

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    I started with the Beginner’s Cold Process Soap Kit from Brambleberry with a simple recipe of Olive Oil, Palm Oil, Coconut Oil and Castor Oil (kit comes with lye, fragrance oil and 2lb mold).

    After some experimentation with different oils and butter, I use the above ingredients along with Shea and Cocoa Butter. I also invested in a couple of 1lb molds to test new scents and colors.

    With regards to making Goat Milk Soap, I use equal parts frozen Evaporated Goats Milk and frozen Distilled Water mixed with my lye in an ice bath (ice, water & salt). I mix in the lye slowly to maintain the creamy color of the milk. I soap GMS around 70-75F and then refrigerate it. I then bring it to room temperature to mold and then wait another day to cut.

    The above is the result of my first 2lb batch of GMS which was a failure. I froze the Goat Milk, but not the water and no ice bath. I then put it in the garage...in July...and covered it with towels. It overheated...badly. It was a medium brown, the top was rough and there was oil floating on top. Letting it sit (as was recommended) for a few days did see most of the oil reabsorb, but then I cut it and it sweated oil.
     
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  8. Oct 28, 2019 #28

    KiwiMoose

    KiwiMoose

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    Hello and welcome. :)

    Maybe aim for a few more hard oils as has been mentioned.

    My early recipes contained Shea or Cocoa Butter at about 15% as I am palm and animal-fat free. Coconut oil was the only other hard oil that I used and as a result, my soap didn't last long. After a couple months I discovered Soy Wax as an alternative to Cocoa Butter (too expensive). Now I use a combo of CO (20%), Shea (10%) and SW (20%) to make up my hard oil component.

    I found this quite helpful to start: https://www.modernsoapmaking.com/the-most-popular-fatty-acid-profiles-in-soapmaking/

    Good luck and happy soaping!
     
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