Wool wash and surfactants

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So I participate in a fiber festival every year and I’ve been asked a few times about wool wash. After doing some research on popular ones, Eucalan mostly, I noted the ingredients to be similar to shampoo bar ingredients. Particularly the Laundress wash with the listing saying plant based Anionic and Nonionic Surfactants and Eucalan’s
  • Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate (Vegetable-based soap)
  • Ammonium Chloride (Is a salt of ammonia; used as a thickener)
  • Cocamide MEA (Mild foaming agent and thickener derived from plant source)
Would it be out of pocket to think I could make a liquid syndet with some of the ingredients I have from my shampoo bar buying?

Would SLSa be too harsh for wools? Since I use it on my hair, why would it be too much for a knit hat or other knits? Or CAPB for cocomide MEA/DEA?

I have looked up different animal fibers and the pH of them vary so I would image being pH neutral would be best for a detergent.



 
I suggest you take a look at Susan Swift's blog. She has a lot of good advice. If SLSa is not too harsh for your hair, then I think it would be OK for wool, as it is a natural fiber.
 
So I participate in a fiber festival every year and I’ve been asked a few times about wool wash. After doing some research on popular ones, Eucalan mostly, I noted the ingredients to be similar to shampoo bar ingredients. Particularly the Laundress wash with the listing saying plant based Anionic and Nonionic Surfactants and Eucalan’s
  • Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate (Vegetable-based soap)
  • Ammonium Chloride (Is a salt of ammonia; used as a thickener)
  • Cocamide MEA (Mild foaming agent and thickener derived from plant source)
Would it be out of pocket to think I could make a liquid syndet with some of the ingredients I have from my shampoo bar buying?

Would SLSa be too harsh for wools? Since I use it on my hair, why would it be too much for a knit hat or other knits? Or CAPB for cocomide MEA/DEA?

I have looked up different animal fibers and the pH of them vary so I would image being pH neutral would be best for a detergent.

Based on a quick search, it seems wool has an acidic ph and recommendations are to use vinegar for both washing and softening. Strange but true. :)
If you don't have any wool or natural fibers on hand, you could probably find some at a local yarn shop. Just buy a small amount and test it out.
 
Based on a quick search, it seems wool has an acidic ph and recommendations are to use vinegar for both washing and softening. Strange but true. :)
If you don't have any wool or natural fibers on hand, you could probably find some at a local yarn shop. Just buy a small amount and test it out.

sheep’s wool does have a ph of 7-9 but alpaca has a lower pH, closer to our own hair.

I have a ton of fiber that I am going to test on because my research also says that dyeing and different manufacturing of fibers can affect the pH as well.

I think I will go talk to my fiber mill friends about this.
 
sheep’s wool does have a ph of 7-9 but alpaca has a lower pH, closer to our own hair.

I have a ton of fiber that I am going to test on because my research also says that dyeing and different manufacturing of fibers can affect the pH as well.

I think I will go talk to my fiber mill friends about this.
That's awesome! Do you spin?
 
If SLSa is not too harsh for your hair, then I think it would be OK for wool, as it is a natural fiber.
I can't agree. I for example have rather strong hair not sensitive to the type of shampoo. I process wool from Slovenian native sheep breed with the dish washing detergent with no harm whatsoever. But I'm very prudent with fine merino fibres (18 microns and less) when I wash and dye it - it is far more sensitive to harsh treatment.
So I think the type of wool and the sheep breed that produce it are the major factor in choosing the appropriate washing agent.
 
I can't agree. I for example have rather strong hair not sensitive to the type of shampoo. I process wool from Slovenian native sheep breed with the dish washing detergent with no harm whatsoever. But I'm very prudent with fine merino fibres (18 microns and less) when I wash and dye it - it is far more sensitive to harsh treatment.
So I think the type of wool and the sheep breed that produce it are the major factor in choosing the appropriate washing agent.


I use Orvus paste to wash my finer fleeces.
 
Just a bit of practical experience to share, I have used a mild shampoo to wash hand knits for about 30 years. I was told by a fiber shop owner who taught me to knit that she had done that all her life with no problems, and I have not had any issues either. I only use a mild shampoo, not a specialty shampoo. I don't know if this would work washing anything other than hand knits.
 
I've never heard of this. Will check out.

@beckster51 I have read that people have used baby shampoos for washing knits. I've thought about checking formulations for that as well.


I get mine at the local Farm Supply store, look for it in the horse section. Orvus leaves in the natural oils of the skin. It cleans a very dirty fleece in 2 hot washes. My first fleece was an uncoated one from Arizona, it was brick red with clay. 2 nice hot water dips and it was pure white with enough grease left to card and spin up wonderfully.
 
@SideDoorSoaps, Yes it is mostly SLS, but man can it do the job! I use it to get rid of the dirt out of my fleece. As the yarn will be washed with a nice soap for sensitive skin (not mine), it does not matter about the if a bit of SLS remains in it. use 4 tablespoons of paste to 1 large sink of the hottest water you can get in your sink. I use a wire colander to hold the fleece, and just dunk it in after the paste has dissolved. I dunk the fleece in the colander a few times, you can see the junk run out of the fleece. I rinse with the same temp water, until the water runs clear, I pop the wet cool fleece into my washer for a spin, and put it in mesh bags on my laundry line to dry.
 
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