@Abigail 11, whether the soap is safe or not depends on what superfat you chose with your saponify app
Saponify soap calculator
I have not used that one and don't want to download a new app to my phone to see how it works or what the defaults it uses. But if it is like most
soap calculators I have seen, it probably has a default 5%SF. IF the default SF setting is 5% and you did not change it, then yes, your resulting soap would be
lye heavy as it would have a
-10% SF.
I'll show you how in the two calculators I most prefer:
So using
Soapmaking Recipe Builder & Lye Calculator this is what I get for a 711 gram total batch size recipe (500 grams of oils), if I don't change any of the defaults other than to remove the FO, since you did not mention adding one:
NB: the default is 5%SF & 2:1 water to lye ratio (which is 33.33% Lye Concentration) -
NOTICE the amount of Water & NaOH: 140.77gr & 70.39 grams (2:1 ratio)
But if I leave out the Cocoa Butter, this is what I SHOULD use to get the same default SF & Lye Concentration:
NOTICE: To maintain the same SF of 5%, the amount of NaOH drops 10 grams (or 13%), but we are assuming that since you did not REMEMBER the avocado oil, that you also did not go back and make the correct lye solution for the now lesser amounts of oils (in this example, minus the 75 grams of Avocado oil.)
So here is what I would REALLY get, if I just forgot the oil and didn't adjust the calculator: a NEGATIVE superfat, meaning the soap is lye heavy and really looks like this:
If I put it into Soapee.com and don't change any of the defaults except the FO (to zero),
The defaults look like this:
this is what I get:
Notice the difference in default settings impact the resulting amount of water to lye ratio, but the amount of lye is the same (only water changes) in order to get the default 5% SF.
Here it is without the avocado oil:
Notice the amount of lye goes down by 10 grams again, same as in the other calculator, in order to maintain the 5% SF.
BUT, assuming you used the original lye solution, this is what it looks like in Soapee with the REAL lye heavy -10 SF:
Now, you may wonder, how can I be absolutely positive this soap is safe or not safe? Do a ZAP test to determine that. Don't do a pH test with litmus paper because they are notoriously unreliable for testing bar soap AND tell you nothing about excess lye in bar soap anyway.
Here is a link on how to properly perform a ZAP test:
How To Properly/Safely Conduct The Zap/Tongue Test
Another reference:
Zap test | Soapy Stuff
SOLUTIONS: As mentioned above, you can re-batch. Another suggestion rather than re-batching right of the bat, is to simply save this soap for now, label it as Lye Heavy AND keep the documentation with the soap in a box so you can look back later if you do want to rebatch, so you know what you need to make it safe.
Then make a small batch that DOES include all the ingredients.
IMO, it is better to make a soap success at least once (probably 3 times is better) BEFORE you start trying to rescue failed batches. Eventually, you can come back to this and try different re-batch methods (there are more ways than just to melt it and add the missing oil. But let that learning process come later. AND if you leave it until later, you can keep an eye on it and see how long lye heavy soap takes to get ashy and eventually change over time. Some lye heavy soaps are used as laundry soap or stain remover sticks, and some eventually lose some of the excess lye via a chemical interaction with oxygen, but that all should be left until later, after you have learned to make safe soap first.