PH testing is not accurate for testing CP soap for the most part. You need to zap test it to see if there is active lye. PH does not tell you that.Good day,
Thank you for your response. For this soap, I used a Cold process and I used a stick blender. I also made a large batch; 36 bars of soap about 8 oz each. I also oredered - Phenolphthalein in Ethanol Solution pH Indicator for Titrations and pH Testing Soap Making and waiting for this to arrive.
I mixed oils with lye at about 150 F. Do you think the T was too hot?
Thank you so much. I also sell soap so I decided to see if I can master batch to save time. I will zip test it as you mentioned and decrease a T down to 110 I think.PH testing is not accurate for testing CP soap for the most part. You need to zap test it to see if there is active lye. PH does not tell you that.
Soaping at 150 is too hot yes. Also, why are you making such large batches. That's just crazy, especially if you are new to this. Heck, I sell and don't make that much at one time most times. That's a lot of soap to have to either toss or rebatch if it doesn't turn out.
No, no color. I only used lye, distilled water, 83% Olive Oil, 17% Laurel oil. I had 6% lye discount and 11% water discount. I mixed the oils and lye at 150F. I guess it could have been a problem.how long have you been selling soap ?????? you've never heard of "zap test " before ? the steps you took to make your soap still remains vague if you want us to troubleshoot what it is and what & where you may have went wrong to get those large white spots , things like recipe and technique help to zoom in quickly and accurately to what is wrong.
ETA : btw , did you add any color [ TD white] to your soap ?
yep I've had white spots using TD (it wasn't an OO soap though).i had white spots like this when i mixed in titanium dioxide
Zap test: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=30690
Since you are that new, it was stickied at the beginning of the forum. You would do well to go read all of the stickies.