Whipped shea

[Arimara]

We definitely need at the @Dahila to look at this, when she can. My mind is drawing blanks on who else is a lotion maker. I'm honestly not sure you can save it since you mixed it all up. The oils would heat up more slowly than the water, which more would evaporate and then you would also possible inactivate the preservative in there and need to add more.

 

[Carlaalways1]

Ummmm... for the next batch how much emulsifying wax should I add ?

 

[Saponificarian]

If you are making a lotion/emulsified body butter, you should ideally have 2/3 phases.

Phase One is the water phase where you have all your liquid and water soluble ingredients.

Phase two is your oil phase with your oils and oil soluble ingredients including your waxed and emulsifier.

Depending on if you heat and hold your ingredients, I would advise you to, if you are a home crafter, not only to heat the ingredients to kill the nasties in the phases but because some emulsifiers need to be heated well to function effectively.

Heat and holding means you heat the two phases (water and oil Phase) using a double boiler and time the phases for 20mins when they both hit 70C.

You then combine both phases together using a stick blender. I know some people use the whipping method but I have never tried it. Stick blending works just fine! I just generally add my oil phase to my water phase as the water phase for me is usually larger and I don’t use pesky emulsifiers that require you to add water phase to oil phase.

Third phase should be your cool down ingredients to include preservatives and extracts, FO and such. Usually when the whole batch cools to about 40c.

Read up on your preservative as some do better added to the water phase upfront with temperature caveats so read up on the preservatives you are using as some are inactivated by so and so ingredients. Which is why Liquid Germal plus is usually recommended for beginners, it’s less finicky. Just add it at 40C or less.

Ideally if you are using emulsifying wax, it should be at 25% of your total oil phase. That includes all the oils, butters and waxes in your recipe. You can use some emulsifier at a lower usage rate so again, you need to read up on the type of emulsifier you are using.

You can’t go wrong checking out humblebeeandme website as well as Swiftcraftymonkey blog. Haven’t been on these blogs for a long time but they got me started. You are in good hands with these ladies.

Hope this helps.

Your original recipe

Water Phase
63% Water

Oil Phase
5% Shea Butter
10% Mango Butter
4% Stearic Acid
5% Jojoba oil
8% Emulsifying wax

Third Phase(Cool down phase)
1% geogard persevatives
3% Fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E

I will make this recipe tweaking your original recipe. My preference will be to make Shea butter 10% but you seem to be able smell it through the fragrance hence why I increased the mango butter instead as that is usually less odorous he?

Your ewax which I am guessing is the generic one is better used at 25% +1 of the oil phase which is why it’s 8% when it should have been 7%.

ETA: I would trash the previous batch. I am guessing it’s less ewax and the whole process gone awry

 

[Arimara]

Your original recipe

Water Phase
63% Water

Oil Phase
5% Shea Butter
10% Mango Butter
4% Stearic Acid
5% Jojoba oil
8% Emulsifying wax

Third Phase(Cool down phase)
1% geogard persevatives
3% Fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E

I will make this recipe tweaking your original recipe. My preference will be to make Shea butter 10% but you seem to be able smell it through the fragrance hence why I increased the mango butter instead as that is usually less odorous he?

Your ewax which I am guessing is the generic one is better used at 25% +1 of the oil phase which is why it’s 8% when it should have been 7%.

ETA: I would trash the previous batch. I am guessing it’s less ewax and the whole process gone awry

That's the answer I was wondering about.

 

[atiz]

Saponificarian is right, and that's a really nice description of the basic process.
I also think that if you don't yet have a tried and true recipe, it's better to make much smaller batches -- much less waste, and easier to handle. Lotion making can be somewhat tricky in my experience; new additives can sometimes mess with the emulsion if not done right, and you just don't know it until you try it.
I would toss your current batch and start over with the revised recipe. Or, head over to the recommended blogs, they also have a lot of good things to try out (and humblebeeandme is free).

 

[Dahila]

There is kind of rule that most emulsifiers you use 25% of oil soluble ingredient, if you use dimethicone you add it, also fragrance Add all oil soluble ing sume them up and dived by 4, Most of them, Some emulsifiers can emulsify a lot of oil; ie Quick summary: Jeesperse® ICE-T CIS-2 (INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) polyquaternium 37) . Use 0.5% to 1.5% for sprayable lotions and conditioners; 1% to 6% for hair conditioners; 3% to 10% for skin and body care products. pH 2 to 9 for the finished product. That one is very forgiving and it is cold emulsifier the first one of cold processed I like . The hair conditioner with Helia is fantastic

 

[AMc14]

I make and sell whipped Shea body butters and use both refined and unrefined as I have some customers who prefer unrefined. With unrefined Shea, I add Mango butter to my recipe to take down the nuttiness of the Shea butter. I have also used phenonip at a 1% ratio in my butters, as a precaution, and have not had any separation or overpowering smell.

Do you add any essential oils or fragrance to the unrefined shea butter to improve the smell? Which are some fragrances I could use to improve the smell?

 

[natari624]

Do you add any essential oils or fragrance to the unrefined shea butter to improve the smell? Which are some fragrances I could use to improve the smell?

I find with my unrefined butters the nuttiness doesn't last once absorbed in the skin and the true scent stands out. However, just smelling it out of the jar it smells nutty with a hint of the scent. Here are the scents I offer my customers....
CocoRose - Rose Petal EO only
Cashmere Gold- Cashmere FO, Brown Sugar FO
Black Currant- Black Currant EO
Oriental Woods- this is my own blend that I won't give away as it's a best seller with men and women alike... but essentially create a blend of wood and spice. The earthiness you end up with blend very well with unrefined shea or even whipped cocobutter.

You can even try a double or triple butter... where you add other quality butters to the shea to help mellow out the scent. I usual do shea, mango, cocoa butter OR Shea, Kokum, Mango.

Hope this helps a little.

 

[AMc14]

I find with my unrefined butters the nuttiness doesn't last once absorbed in the skin and the true scent stands out. However, just smelling it out of the jar it smells nutty with a hint of the scent. Here are the scents I offer my customers....
CocoRose - Rose Petal EO only
Cashmere Gold- Cashmere FO, Brown Sugar FO
Black Currant- Black Currant EO
Oriental Woods- this is my own blend that I won't give away as it's a best seller with men and women alike... but essentially create a blend of wood and spice. The earthiness you end up with blend very well with unrefined shea or even whipped cocobutter.

You can even try a double or triple butter... where you add other quality butters to the shea to help mellow out the scent. I usual do shea, mango, cocoa butter OR Shea, Kokum, Mango.

Hope this helps a little.

This is amazing. Thank you sooo much.