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What OO do you use for your soap?

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Arimara

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I got into soap making to use less chemicals, no way would I ever use Pomace.
I'm sure there's more lye being used than what's in pomace. Besides, if it doesn't dry my skin out like OO tends to do, I'm okay with it. Besides, there are other unsaponifiables in that oil that I'm sure influences them.
 

linne1gi

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I'm sure there's more lye being used than what's in pomace. Besides, if it doesn't dry my skin out like OO tends to do, I'm okay with it. Besides, there are other unsaponifiables in that oil that I'm sure influences them.
Hexane is used to extract the oil - to get the dregs. Some remains behind which is why Pomace traces so fast. But honestly, it IS still olive oil. How does that change your skin feel?
 

Emmamia

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One of my first soaps. (I started soaping last April) was A 100% olive oil soap made with EVOO from Casco... I used individual moles with the olive oil shape... I absolutely love the greenish natural look... But; I think my skin does not like olive oil..... I’m very sad... I find it very drying.. Is that a thing with a 100% olive oil soap?
 

ravenscents

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I have a lard, Coconut Oil, Pomice olive oil and Grapeseed oil recipe that takes a month of Sundays to come to trace. The only additive that makes it accelerate is TD. I use the heat transfer method and most of the time I mix my hard oil/lye mixture and my liquid oils with a wisk and let the bowl sit for 10-15 minutes, then go back work with. Only if I'm not using TD.:)
 

ravenscents

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Loved the sounds of OO Pomace properties especially re better shelf life and hardness relative to EVOO.

Bought some to make first ever castle a few days ago and did a small batch based on the following.
  • 1% SF in soapcalc
  • 99% OO Pomace grade
  • 1% EVOO after emulsion. Figured it would be a way to still get the EVOO goodness! Happy for any thoughts.
  • Water conc to lye was 1.7:1 with 3.5% sea salt brine (variation inspired by Zany's 'no-slime' recipe)
At 10 hours post pour, it was too soft to cut ... but not too far off.
However, I wasn't able to return to the soap until 72 hours post pour. It was too hard to be cut. When I tried, I had to give up because it was too brittle and breaking away in hard chips. So I have a block of soap.

Eager to use it, perhaps within 2 weeks?!

Please excuse my very slight digression; soap is sweating slightly given salt in my ultra high humidity rainforest climate. I wonder whether the sweating will be any less with the baking soda as part of Zany's brine recipe. Unsure whether the oil type makes the sweating better or worse or the overall effect on hardness.

Unfortunately, having never used any other (commercial) Castile soap, I do not have a benchmark with which to compare. Happy for comments.
Try Zany's no slime castile. I tried it last week, super easy recipe- white bars. I force gel, so I was able to cut in 18 hours. I'm super excited to try it in a week.
 

Emmamia

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Not In a plain simple soap.. Plus it depends what do you mean by color distortion.... what i mean .... a not -white soap can only distortion the results when we are trying to achieve an specific color. Just my opinion... it might be that; my style (Soaping preferences) is more toward more natural then the looks.
 

Emmamia

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yes, I definitely will love to try Zany’s recipe, but; I can’t find it. Can you send it to me please? I remember I saw it like a week or so ago, but I’m not very good navigating this forum to find past threads. I’ll get there... 🙏
 

Vicki C

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The price for extra light olive oil, even just regular olive oil is about comparable in my area as this brand.

Pricing of olive oil may vary of course so its totally possible that this brand is not at all cost effective in all areas. Its color is one of the lightest I've seen.

This is a great discussion - looks like Amazon is out of HB extra light right now but you can get Pompeii for $7.62 for a half gallon. I don’t think I have ever seen extra light at my local grocery store (Market Basket, for those in New England) but I’m going to look.
 

rdc1978

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This is a great discussion - looks like Amazon is out of HB extra light right now but you can get Pompeii for $7.62 for a half gallon. I don’t think I have ever seen extra light at my local grocery store (Market Basket, for those in New England) but I’m going to look.

The above should be a link to zanys recipe. I'm going to try it later today, and um excited.
 

rdc1978

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yes, I definitely will love to try Zany’s recipe, but; I can’t find it. Can you send it to me please? I remember I saw it like a week or so ago, but I’m not very good navigating this forum to find past threads. I’ll get there... 🙏

This should be it!
 

Nina F

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I’ve been using EVOO and it works well but leaves a strong tint to the batter. I haven’t tried mixing titanium dioxide or any other ingredient yet but what OO would you guys suggest which is best for making soap without adding so much tint?
I usually use a supermarket ‘light in colour’ olive oil which is a blend of EVOO and regular OO. Has a lovely feel to the soap and a creamy colour. When using oils likely to tint the batter I add 1tbsp of white kaolin clay powder to neutralise that greenish undertone. Clay powders are also useful for anchoring fragrance
 

linne1gi

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I usually use a supermarket ‘light in colour’ olive oil which is a blend of EVOO and regular OO. Has a lovely feel to the soap and a creamy colour. When using oils likely to tint the batter I add 1tbsp of white kaolin clay powder to neutralise that greenish undertone. Clay powders are also useful for anchoring fragrance
You can't make multi colored soap using any type of EVOO. I love it for cooking, but definitely not for soapmaking. Here's what I mean by multi-colored.
 

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