what grade of stainless steel for lye

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So I did a stupid thing and had a lye solution sitting out in a plastic measuring cup when our kid returned early. Normally I hang a LYE warning on it just in case someone comes home, but I didn't.

I want to buy a large stainless steel pitcher that everyone will know by sight as the lye pitcher, but I don't know which grade of stainless is appropriate.
Google hasn't been any help yet, except to say that 300 series does etch and crack with strong sodium hydroxide.
 
So I did a stupid thing and had a lye solution sitting out in a plastic measuring cup when our kid returned early. Normally I hang a LYE warning on it just in case someone comes home, but I didn't.

I want to buy a large stainless steel pitcher that everyone will know by sight as the lye pitcher, but I don't know which grade of stainless is appropriate.
Google hasn't been any help yet, except to say that 300 series does etch and crack with strong sodium hydroxide.

In consumer items you won't find anything with more resistance to hydroxide than 300-series steel. It's not impervious, but should be okay under normal conditions. Whether it's attacked is a function of lye concentration and temperature. If I was mixing up 50% solutions, I'd shy away from steel.
 
In consumer items you won't find anything with more resistance to hydroxide than 300-series steel. It's not impervious, but should be okay under normal conditions. Whether it's attacked is a function of lye concentration and temperature. If I was mixing up 50% solutions, I'd shy away from steel.

50% solutions are rare for me - maybe twice a year.

Shopping on Amazon, a 300 series would be an 18/8 right? How strong is an 18/10?
 
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50% solutions are rare for me - maybe twice a year.

Shopping on Amazon, a 300 series would be an 18/8 right? How strong is an 18/10?

Thanks, I meant to mention that 18/8 and 18/10 is the same general type of steel as the 300 series. People use less optimal steels that those and get away with it. I don't know how to compare the different variations, but as long as you're in this category of "austenitic" chrome/nickel steels, I think you're good.
 
Thanks, I meant to mention that 18/8 and 18/10 is the same general type of steel as the 300 series. People use less optimal steels that those and get away with it. I don't know how to compare the different variations, but as long as you're in this category of "austenitic" chrome/nickel steels, I think you're good.

Thank you so much - that helps a lot! I assumed stainless steel was automatically better than plastic and was so surprised to find its not!
But I want the weight of a metal container because it's more stable if you bump up against it.
 
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