What does lye heavy soap feel like

Soapmaking Forum

Help Support Soapmaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.
ChrissyB said:
I test my soap as soon as it has gelled, set up and cooled down.

Yep, me too, inside the first cut.
 
Me too , I haven't been zapped yet , I am sure it will happen someday.:wink:

Kitn
 
it is high coconut oil, which I thought about too

well then that is most likely your problem. The lauric acid in coconut is what makes it clean so well. too much coconut and it's probably stripping your skin too much and leaving you dry and itchy. Either lower the coconut or raise your superfat.
 
So how long should you wait after soap has been demoulded and cut to do the zap test!
 
if you want to know what lye heavy soap feels like, put oven cleaner on your skin....don't ask me how I know, but it's not a nice feeling.

The oven cleaner I have is basically Lye-gel. It works, but I am thinking about ways to make it myself. Does anyone know, what I could use to get the gel-like consistency ?
 
LJA said:
tincanac said:
So how long should you wait after soap has been demoulded and cut to do the zap test!

Tin, you can do it right away.

Oh dear I cant really tell - I think there might be a bit of a zap - my tongue didnt feel it on the first go but it did on the second and right now it does feel like I just stuck the tip of my tongue is scalding liquid. OH NOOOOO!!!!! ANd they were so pretty too - Does it get better over time? Like if I let it cure longer? If I stuck a pH wand (like the kind you use to test soil) in a cut chunk will it give me a better indication? Is there any way to rescue this gorgeous soap - it was such a lovely swirled batch and it smells so great...

I used Holsum as part of the oils cos I read that it was 100% Palm Oil - it says vegetable shortening on the stick. Is that the problem maybe - that I just assumed that it was palm oil and over lyed? Will anyone be able to help me with the lye calculations? The bar is nice and hard and lathers up real well!

Sorry about hijacking your thread Philly! :oops:
 
Does it get better over time? Like if I let it cure longer?

I wait for a week to check mine for zap because sometimes I've had the rare, odd, occasional batch that didn't gel all the way or was a little slow to fully saponify, and it would still be zapping 3 days out of the mold. Happily, though, by day 5 or so, such batches have all checked out fine with no more zap. I guess they just needed more time to do their thing. As a result, I decided to never call the curtains on a soap or get the rebatch pot out until a week has passed.

IrishLass :)
 
they should be fine fresh from the mold, but I too give it a couple of days just in case. the tongue is a VERY sensitive tool for this purpose, so even if it picks up that tiny bit of zap when it's absolutely fresh it STILL shouldn't burn your hands.

there are some soaps that give a kinda "delayed zap." I don't believe that's excess alkali, but rather that the tongue doesn't like that particular soap. true zap is... well zappy.
 
Thanks guys

Well, it seems to be fine when I wash my hands with it - I am not sure about the zap factor though - I eat pure chillies raw, so I am kind of desensitised to zapability - I think I am going to try and stick the pH meter in the bar to see what happens - maybe it will give me a reading!
 
Okay here it is my rebatch rebatch lye heavy soap look at how smooth it came out so yes it is possible to rebatch lye heavy cold process soap using vinegar to counteract the alkalinity in the soap and then on the Rebach make sure that you add alcohol to smooth out your mixture use your stick blender and blend like it nobody's business till it comes out creamy like if you're getting right back to trace again only difference it will stay more fluid for you then use your spatula to mix it just a few times pour it right into your mold make sure that there are no lumps and it is completely smooth spritzer with alcohol just to bring down the bubbles and there you go Wallah a smooth finish and yes I did add food coloring to my rebatch cold process soap and it took very well as you can see in the pictures

15240208361731528962378.jpg
1524020863982517982807.jpg


I forgot to add that in order for me to be able to demold a lot faster I went ahead and a lot like melt and pour I stuck my molds in the freezer cuz I wanted to quickly demold them so I didn't have to wait a full 24 hours to do so and as you can see on the impressions on my soaps it worked very well but you have to be patient because I did have those moments where I jumped thinking that it was completely set and sadly it was still soft I will provide photos to show see you so there is good with the bad you must be patient
15240210631571541924314.jpg
?
1524021085073349365780.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 15240205308251703465949.jpg
    15240205308251703465949.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 8
  • 15240205526251116723399.jpg
    15240205526251116723399.jpg
    102.1 KB · Views: 10
Last edited by a moderator:
First off you are posting in a thread 9 yrs old many are not longer here and many will not answer such old posts.

You already posted this in another thread, why did you not add your pics there. What you have done is not a proper HP soap, it is borderline of being a transparent soap, not quite a remelt-able soap. In my opinion it is not nice to post a method, that newbies may try, which is not a proper way to hp or rebatch. Most, if not all experienced soapers here would never consider your method. If you like it and think it is good soap go for it, just do not recommend such a method to newbies. Please learn how to make proper soap with proper calculations or purchase m&p base if you want soap to look like above. At least you are using a proven product. Essentials by Catalina have nice bases.

A quote from my favorite Aunt growing up. If you want to do something do it right or do not do it, this was when she was teaching me to sew in a zipper...
 
Last edited:
First off you are posting in a thread 9 yrs old many are not longer here and many will not answer such old posts.

You already posted this in another thread, why did you not add your pics there. What you have done is not a proper HP soap, it is borderline of being a transparent soap, not quite a remelt-able soap. In my opinion it is not nice to post a method, that newbies may try, which is not a proper way to hp or rebatch. Most, if not all experienced soapers here would never consider your method. If you like it and think it is good soap go for it, just do not recommend such a method to newbies. Please learn how to make proper soap with proper calculations or purchase m&p base if you want soap to look like above. At least you are using a proven product. Essentials by Catalina have nice bases.

A quote from my favorite Aunt growing up. If you want to do something do it right or do not do it, this was when she was teaching me to sew in a zipper...
Hello that was not melt and pour it was CP soap Rebach on lye heavey soap did you read anything I actual wrote if you had you would see that that was not a hot process soap it was a rebatch on cold process I think you have some post mixed up have a good day and it doesn't matter if those people are still on the form or not because this is an Old Post there are still plenty of people always looking up the same thing and looking up advice wherever they can so if I know something that they don't there you go just like everybody else puts their ideas out there into the world Let It Be and stop being so judgy and my grandmother also had a saying #if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all! God bless and have a good day. Oh and by the way I'm going to post a pic of my melt and pour
 

Attachments

  • 152409631662965885799.jpg
    152409631662965885799.jpg
    30.3 KB · Views: 18
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Back
Top