What do you use to mix your Lye and Water?

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Lin19687

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I am in need of a new bowl. The one I have is not good and just noticed flakes :(

What do most of you use for a larger batch ?
Something that would hold 2-4# of water?
I like to use bigger so I don't have spillage.

So far I have only use 2# of water for a lye mix, about a 84 oz oil recipe.

Thanks

I see from another older thread that #5 plastic is better. Not sure why it didn't come in my search, obviously it is operator error :headbanging:
 
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What about a smaller food safe plastic bucket? The deli at our grocery store has them in all different sizes, they sell empties for a few bucks.
 
Recycle code 2, high density polypropylene, HDPE, or recycle code 5, polyproplylene, PP, are the most desirable. Both are suitable for hot and room temperature lye solution. Also choose as thick and heavy a container as you can find -- you want sturdiness as well as chemical resistance.

Recycle code 4, low density polypropylene, LDPE, is a distant third. It is best only for storage of room temperature lye solution. I don't recommend anything else.

See: https://classicbells.com/soap/lyeStorage.html
 
You can get buckets in #2 or #5 plastic from Home Depot and Wal-Mart, if you only want a couple of them. I know my local Home Depot has them in sizes from about half a gallon all the way up to 5 gallons. If you want more, you might look at places like U-Line and restaurant and bakery supply places.

Personally, I use a stainless steel milk frothing pitcher, but even a 60 oz capacity is probably too small for the kind of batch sizes you're talking about.
 
I use pitchers that I buy either at Walmart or a Dollar type store or even at Goodwill or other second hand stores. I have 3 or 4 that I bought for this purpose, of varying sizes. Which size I use depends on the amount needed for a particular recipe. The larger ones are recycle code #5 PP, and I have a couple smaller ones that are #2 HDPE. I also bought a stainless steel pitcher for this purpose, but have not used it yet.

For my masterbatch lye, I use the largest one with a #5 PP recycle code, After mixing the mastervbatch lye solution and it cools down, I later pour it into bottles that Essential Depot lye comes in and those are #2 HDPE. That's one reason I really like to buy lye from ED, is for the bottles. They are already labeled and it makes for a good size to lift and pour my masterbatch lye from. I have a bigger gallon jug I was going to use, but as an old lady with less strength than in my youth, I don't really want to be lifting and pouring 7 pounds of lye solution. A couple of years ago I dropped a 5 gallon jug of water when trying to replace it onto a water dispenser and the clean up was quite a big deal, and that was only water! Evidence to me that my super human mom-strength is waning with age. :)
 
I use a 64 oz bain marie from a restaurant supply store. It is stainless steel, tall and not too big around. It is an awesome container to mix large masterbatches of lye in.
 
Evidence to me that my super human mom-strength is waning with age.
Me too, Earlene! I had to give up my wooden mold for 90 oz oils batch. Switched to 60-65 oz. oils mold, which I still use, but four silicone molds (WSP 1501) that hold 30 oz oils each are quickly becoming my go-to molds. I really like them.

As for mixing lye, I used #2 and #5 HDPE (re-purposed NaOH /KOH containers) for a while until one container totally degraded into lye that got too hot (!) and the other crumpled under the heat (over 150°F). I'm back to using Pyrex now and I really prefer that I can see whether the NaOH or KOH and any additives like tussah silk or powder colorants) have completely dissolved or not. But that's just me. I'm not suggesting that's what you should use. I'm just sayin... :)
 
I have a gallon sized juice pitcher from Walmart. They’re $1 or less at the end of summer sales and comes with a lid in case you need to wait a while for everything to cool.
 
I have a gallon sized juice pitcher from Walmart. They’re $1 or less at the end of summer sales and comes with a lid in case you need to wait a while for everything to cool.

Yes, lids are very useful. I think that's probably why I haven't used the stainless steel pitcher yet. It doesn't have a lid and all the other one's I use do, except the one I use for small batches.
 
hmmm, good reports all :)

I grabbed a juice pitcher from Big lots. #5 but the bottom still looks thin to me :confused: . I have not soaped with it yet. But did get a 12 qt SS pot for my HP :) It is smaller then the other one I have so I like that for smaller recipes
I mix my Lye outside on the deck, just in case of a spill no one gets hurt. So if it is too thin I will know fast enough ;)

I also always mix my lye slowly, about 1/4 at a time and stir stir stir
 
I absolutely understand why stainless steel makes a lot of sense for soaping ... except it's not a perfect panacea.

Metal contamination is the bane of soap, because it triggers rancidity (DOS, dreaded orange spots). IMO it's best to avoid metal as much as one possibly can when prepping, making, and storing soap. Even though stainless steel is supposed to be chemically inert, I also know it isn't perfectly inert. This is especially true for stainless items sold to retail consumers. Ever seen rust spots on a stainless steel knife or bowl?

If there is an acceptable plastic soaping utensil, I'll use it over a metal version any day. I can't get entirely away from metal (my stick blender for example), but I minimize it.
 
Lower grades of stainless can trigger DOS, or pit, just as DeeAnna said, depending on what filler materials are used in them during manufacture.

A good quality stainless is required for soaping, just as a good quality plastic of the correct type is required (if one is using plastic), or silicone (if one is using silicone). 316 Grade (or 18/10) will work.

Stainless items, even of the best quality, will pit if acids are kept in contact with them.
 
I just bought a tall stainless steel pot with lid from a second had shop, how can I tell if it is the lower grade?
If it is lower grade, will the DoS show up sooner then later when making soap if it is a lower grade of Stainless?
(some what cursing self for paying to much for it)
I was looking for a tall pot, to help prevent lye splashes.
 
You often cannot tell if you're talking about consumer products made from stainless steel. Some products have markings, but many don't. The best insurance is to buy reputable brands rather than bargain basement no-name stuff. Even secondhand is fine, just look for quality.

No one is saying rancidity WILL happen from using stainless. What I am saying is there are reasons why I prefer using plastic if there is an acceptable plastic alternative to metal. If I don't, then stainless is my first choice of metal.

Keep in mind it can be difficult to stir and pour out of an overly tall vessel. As long as your container is sufficiently large and sturdy, you're best insurance against spills and splashes is to be alert to what you're doing and work with care. And wear appropriate safety gear -- at a minimum, chemical splash goggles and gloves.
 
I just bought a tall stainless steel pot with lid from a second had shop, how can I tell if it is the lower grade?
If it is lower grade, will the DoS show up sooner then later when making soap if it is a lower grade of Stainless?
(some what cursing self for paying to much for it)
I was looking for a tall pot, to help prevent lye splashes.
Here's an interesting article about grades of stainless steel. I suggest reading the comments as there is some very good information by one of the commenters who goes into detail about the different grades. VERY GOOD information.

One of our members posted a very good summary of similar information here on the forum sometime within the past couple of years, but I can't find it right now or I would link to it for you.
 
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