Using emulsifying wax in lip balms

Discussion in 'Bath and Body Forum' started by Megan, Sep 24, 2019.

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  1. Sep 24, 2019 #1

    Megan

    Megan

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    I've been having issues with bloom in my lip balms and I'm wondering, would adding emulsifying wax counteract this? I love my formula otherwise and it doesn't happen when stored correctly...but of course, coming off summer, I've had issues.
     
  2. Sep 24, 2019 #2

    DeeAnna

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    I don't think so. An emulsifier doesn't emulsify anything in an anhydrous product, so it's only going to function as a thickener in your lip balm. Your balm is blooming because the product is going through swings in temperature and the fats are crystallizing differently and causing the bloom. What is your recipe -- are you using something like shea or cocoa butter that are prone to bloom or become gritty?
     
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  3. Sep 24, 2019 #3

    shunt2011

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    I agree with DeeAnna. An emulsifier won’t likely work. I have been testing adding some Cera Bellina into my balm but am in the early stages. I use to use butter eze and it worked great but has been discontinued. I experience the graininess primarily because my shows the temperature is pretty erratic. I use both Shea and cocoa butter.
     
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  4. Sep 24, 2019 #4

    Megan

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    Yes, I use both Shea and cocoa butters and the issue has been due to temp fluctuations after manufacture. I had written this in my post originally but I must have accidentally deleted, sorry about that.

    I was thinking it was a long shot, but I've seen Cetearyl Alcohol listed in some balms so I wanted to get y'all's opinion on it.
     
  5. Sep 24, 2019 #5

    Megan

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    My recipe is around 20% beeswax, 40% RBO, 15% ea coconut oil and cocoa butter, and 10 % Shea butter
     
  6. Sep 24, 2019 #6

    DeeAnna

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    Cetearyl alcohol can be used to add thickness to an emulsion and helps to make an emulsion more stable (in other words it can function as a co-emulsifier). It does not work as a primary emulsifier like e-wax, BTMS, etc. Yes, I know many sources on the internet say it's an emulsifier, but they're ignoring or confused by the difference between a co-emulsifier and a "real" emulsifier and lumping them all together as one.

    Anyway, I suppose cetearyl alcohol could be used in a lip balm to add firmness and maybe to modify the texture. I have no idea whether it can prevent bloom or grittiness from the butters reacting to temp changes -- I can't find any source that suggests cetearyl alcohol will work that way.
     
  7. Sep 24, 2019 #7

    dixiedragon

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    I've switched to using ultra-refined shea. I've tried tempering the shea and it doesn't seem to help.
     
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  8. Sep 24, 2019 #8

    Cellador

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    Has anyone here tried Softisan 378? It's advertised as being able to combat graininess. I have contemplated trying it...
     
  9. Oct 4, 2019 #9

    Megan

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    So ultra refined Shea doesn't have this problem? I am at the point where I am either going to try a premade base or the triglyceride blends mentioned (heavily leaning towards the latter) but I love the simplicity of my label...
     
  10. Oct 4, 2019 #10

    cmzaha

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    Softisan 378 does work very similar to ButterEZ, but the price is outrageous unless it has come down in price. If I remember correctly the manufacturer cost is pretty cheap, and we have a local distributor, considering what suppliers are selling it for but would have to go through my notes. When ButterEZ was discontinued I was looking into Softisan 378 because I could will-call it but had to purchase a somewhere around $400 worth. I think it was $10 per lb with a min of 40 lbs. I did talk them out of a sample and it does work. There is a thread here about it. I backed off from the buy because I was afraid I would get stuck with too much of it.
     
  11. Oct 5, 2019 #11

    Cellador

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    I found it at Formulator Sample Shop. The pricing looks about the same but it looks like you can buy it in a variety of sizes.
    https://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Softisan-378-p/fssd30044.htm
     
  12. Oct 5, 2019 #12

    cmzaha

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    @Cellador, Thank you for the link. When I was looking for it one company wanted 70.00 per lb. Rather excessive. This is higher than what I would have paid but I do not have to buy a large amount. It works fantastic in the lip butter that I make in small pots.
     
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  13. Nov 16, 2019 #13

    Cellador

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    @cmzaha what % of Softisan is needed to combat graniness in formulas? I am going to get some but wasn't sure how much I should buy.
     
  14. Nov 16, 2019 #14

    cmzaha

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    I used it at the same 20% rate as I used ButterEZ in my lip butter. This is a soft butter that goes in a small .5 oz jar. I did testing starting at 5% and it did not stop graininess but did improve at 10%, with 20% there was no graininess using shea and cocoa butter in my formula.

    I would be very interested in knowing how it works out for you.
     
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  15. Nov 17, 2019 #15

    Carla Burke

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    Honestly, I've had very little trouble, except when I went snorkeling with a tube inside my swimsuit bra, lol. The warm salt water was a little harsh on the oils! So, I brought that one home, melted it down, and stuck it in the fridge, to harden, and it came right back to its normal, smooth texture. I was surprised, actually.
     

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