I have a batch of confetti that I'll post pics of later today. I just cut it and I used trimmings and scraps for the confetti. Milk soap and confetti! (edit) got it!
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Trouble with first batch
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penelopejane
Well-Known Member
That looks great! I don't know if I'll ever get that fancyI unmolded and cut mine today, it looks pretty good, time will tell, it's on a shelf curing. I can't stop looking at it!
This is not that fancy. It is a great way to use up all the little bits of soap that you cut off to get square edges etc and all those mistakes that just happen. These add up over time.
To make this one you just divide you batter into three. Pour plain batter in the bottom of the mold and level it off. Mix your cut up or grated bits in with 1/3 of the plain batter and pour into the mold next and level it off. Then pour the last 1/3 of batter into the mold. All done.
^^ What penelopejane said.
It's a simple way to use the trimmings from previous batches. You'll be there almost before you know it!
I did a rebatch from some soap that just didn't work out the way I wanted this afternoon and added a bunch of trimmings so I have another darker batch I'll cut in the morning. Cleans up my scraps and "plop and swears".:mrgreen:
It's a simple way to use the trimmings from previous batches. You'll be there almost before you know it!
I did a rebatch from some soap that just didn't work out the way I wanted this afternoon and added a bunch of trimmings so I have another darker batch I'll cut in the morning. Cleans up my scraps and "plop and swears".:mrgreen:
mommycarlson
Well-Known Member
Hi All, I did not disappear, I had a family emergency in Texas, I was down there for a few weeks just got back. I plan to make a batch using the recipe someone posted earlier in the thread, probably Monday. I am looking forward to it I'll let you know how it goes. The rebatched soap I did a few weeks ago is doing pretty well, seems to be drying nicely and the house smells so good!
I'll let you know how it goes. The rebatched soap I did a few weeks ago is doing pretty well, seems to be drying nicely and the house smells so good!
mommycarlson
Well-Known Member
My second attempt at soap, it looks really good to me, although I am not sure since my first batch was a train wreck. This is the basic recipe someone posted earlier in this thread, using lard. It's been in the mold for 7 hours and looking really good. It did not go through the "gel phase" that I've read about, hopefully that's okay. So thank you everyone for all of your input, I wasn't even nervous this time. I took this photo right after I poured the soap in the mold.
I took this photo right after I poured the soap in the mold.
penelopejane
Well-Known Member
^^^ Looks great! :mrgreen:
Now to wait for time to cut!
Looks Way better than the first try.
Since you mentioned DH and son are wood workers you might ask if you can "borrow" a miter box. :twisted: They make great guides for cutting the bars.
Looks Way better than the first try.
Since you mentioned DH and son are wood workers you might ask if you can "borrow" a miter box. :twisted: They make great guides for cutting the bars.
Very nice and creamy looking. Soap does not have to gel but will often stay zappy for 72 hrs and will be softer in the beginning. I do not gel most of my soapsMy second attempt at soap, it looks really good to me, although I am not sure since my first batch was a train wreck. This is the basic recipe someone posted earlier in this thread, using lard. It's been in the mold for 7 hours and looking really good. It did not go through the "gel phase" that I've read about, hopefully that's okay. So thank you everyone for all of your input, I wasn't even nervous this time.
mommycarlson
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone! Do you all wait 24 hours to cut? I've read 24 and also another book says 48.
penelopejane
Well-Known Member
You have to wait until it is ready to cut. Every mold and every recipe is different.
You will know when you try to get it out of the mold if it is too early. You pull the sides of the mold away from the soap - if the soap deforms or is sticky you have to wait a bit. If you leave it too long it will be easy to get out of the mild but difficult to cut. There is a sweet spot for each recipe.
You will know when you try to get it out of the mold if it is too early. You pull the sides of the mold away from the soap - if the soap deforms or is sticky you have to wait a bit. If you leave it too long it will be easy to get out of the mild but difficult to cut. There is a sweet spot for each recipe.
mommycarlson
Well-Known Member
the sides of the mold are already pulling away from the soap, so I may be unmolding and cutting today!
mommycarlson
Well-Known Member
Okay, now that I have two batches of soap under my belt, I am ready to make a coffee soap. I found a recipe online. Do you think I need to use some sort of calculator to make sure the proportions are correct? Here is the recipe:
Coconut oil, 15 oz
Olive oil 17 oz
Palm oil 12 oz
What germ 2 oz
strong coffee 19 oz with 1 T salt
lye 6.95 oz (for a 10% superfat)
At trace add 5 oz castor oil mixed with 1/4 c coffee grounds
I also have some coffee scent that I purchased at Brambleberry but I don't know how much of that to add.
Advice?
Thank you!
Coconut oil, 15 oz
Olive oil 17 oz
Palm oil 12 oz
What germ 2 oz
strong coffee 19 oz with 1 T salt
lye 6.95 oz (for a 10% superfat)
At trace add 5 oz castor oil mixed with 1/4 c coffee grounds
I also have some coffee scent that I purchased at Brambleberry but I don't know how much of that to add.
Advice?
Thank you!
kchaystack
Supporting Member
You should always run recipes from the new thru a calculator.
I also would skip the wheat germ oil. It has an incredibly short shelf life - and that means it can speed up rancidity.
If you are doing this as cold process, adding the castor at trace is not needed. Add it all upfront.
As for the fragrance oil, you need to look at the BB site and find the usage rate. it is probably between .5 - 1 oz per pound of oil.
If it is the espresso FO, it discolors - so be ready for that.
I also would skip the wheat germ oil. It has an incredibly short shelf life - and that means it can speed up rancidity.
If you are doing this as cold process, adding the castor at trace is not needed. Add it all upfront.
As for the fragrance oil, you need to look at the BB site and find the usage rate. it is probably between .5 - 1 oz per pound of oil.
If it is the espresso FO, it discolors - so be ready for that.
Hi Mommycalson! - Yes. Rule # 1 of soap-making.....never get caught with your pants down- always, always, always use a soap calculator to double-check any recipe you find online. You'd be surprised at how many new soapers get into trouble by using a recipe found online that turned out to be faulty in some way- either because of a typo or because the recipe was just plain bad.
I just took a look at the recipe and here are 4 things right off the bat that concern me:
1) I feel that the superfat is too high for this type of formula (at least in my estimation); 2) adding 5 oz. of castor at trace is completely unnecessary; 3) the water/coffee level is way to high (unless you are going to make this via HP instead of CP??); and 4) I would use less coffee grounds.
I'm not sure of the intent the originator of the recipe had in mind for adding the castor at trace, but if it was because they thought it would remain as a superfat, then they are sadly mistaken (it will not remain as the superfat).
Other than those 4 things, the formula in terms of the oils/fats %s used looks fine to me. If I were making it, this is what I would do:
1) I would include the 5 oz of castor up front as part of the formula calculations when determining the amount of lye/water to use, and I would mix it in with the other oils before adding the lye/coffee solution.
2) I would use much less water/coffee (14 oz. tops)
3) I would superfat it no higher than 8%.
4) Instead of 1/4 cup, I would use 3 tablespoons coffee grounds, tops .
As for the FO, I would check out Brambleberry's scent calculator on their site.
Hopefully others will chime in soon to add their advice.
Edited to add: looks like somebody just did!
IrishLass
- Yes. Rule # 1 of soap-making.....never get caught with your pants down- always, always, always use a soap calculator to double-check any recipe you find online. You'd be surprised at how many new soapers get into trouble by using a recipe found online that turned out to be faulty in some way- either because of a typo or because the recipe was just plain bad. I just took a look at the recipe and here are 4 things right off the bat that concern me:
1) I feel that the superfat is too high for this type of formula (at least in my estimation); 2) adding 5 oz. of castor at trace is completely unnecessary; 3) the water/coffee level is way to high (unless you are going to make this via HP instead of CP??); and 4) I would use less coffee grounds.
I'm not sure of the intent the originator of the recipe had in mind for adding the castor at trace, but if it was because they thought it would remain as a superfat, then they are sadly mistaken (it will not remain as the superfat).
Other than those 4 things, the formula in terms of the oils/fats %s used looks fine to me. If I were making it, this is what I would do:
1) I would include the 5 oz of castor up front as part of the formula calculations when determining the amount of lye/water to use, and I would mix it in with the other oils before adding the lye/coffee solution.
2) I would use much less water/coffee (14 oz. tops)
3) I would superfat it no higher than 8%.
4) Instead of 1/4 cup, I would use 3 tablespoons coffee grounds, tops .
As for the FO, I would check out Brambleberry's scent calculator on their site.
Hopefully others will chime in soon to add their advice.
Edited to add: looks like somebody just did!
IrishLass
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I would lower the castor oil. Looks like 5 oz is approx 10%. I usually do 5-7%. My only exception was a 90% olive oil bar.
mommycarlson
Well-Known Member
Okay, I plan to do cold process. I wasn't sure what soap calculator to use, any favorites? I've never used one, so any advice would be appreciated. I just tried the fragrance calculator on BB, it asked me for my batch size in ounces or grams. So do I just add up the ounces of the oils? Or do I also add the ounces of water and lye? I appreciate all the help, I'm very new so I have a lot of questions.
And WOW, I just looked at a soap calculator website, that is WAY over my head....closed it quickly.....yikes!
And WOW, I just looked at a soap calculator website, that is WAY over my head....closed it quickly.....yikes!
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I myself am a long-term user of SoapCalc, which I would venture to say is probably the most commonly used soap calculator across soapdom. Here is a tutorial by one of our members that guides you through how to use it: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=49627
And SoapCalc itself has it's own tutorial on how to use it on-site: http://soapcalc.net/info/helptext.asp
There is also another calculator that many here have been using of late called Soapee. I've never used that particular one myself, but those that do use it say that it is more newbie-friendly. Hopefully those that use it will chime in soon.
MMS also has a calculator, and so does Brambleberry.
I like SoapCalc because it gives me the fatty acid profile of my soap, as well as other things that I like to keep track of.
I've never used the Brambleberry calculator since SoapCalc has a box where I can calculate it, but for what it's worth, most of us figure the rate of scent as per pound of the oil amount of our formulas only.
LOL I can understand how intimidating it can all be at first, but it'll all make sense sooner or later. Just read through the tutorials and it will become clearer and clearer in no time.
Don't hesitate to ask if you don't understand something. Questions are welcome here.
IrishLass
mommycarlson
Well-Known Member
Thank you Irish Lass, it's fair to say I am overwhelmed. I just thought you chose a recipe (like baking a cake) and followed it, no clue that there needed to be calculations. I will do some research and see what I can learn.
If you're serious about soaping, getting used to at least of the calcs is not optional, but required. They might look complicated but they are actually really simple to use - just look at one of the numbered sections at a time and answer that part.
What type of lye are you using? Simple to answer.
What unit of measurement? Also simple to answer.
Before you know it, you're clicking on 'calculate' and seeing then recipe
What type of lye are you using? Simple to answer.
What unit of measurement? Also simple to answer.
Before you know it, you're clicking on 'calculate' and seeing then recipe
