Total Beginner But Very Interested and Ready to Start

[Phantasm]

I have a granite cutting board. If I drape a towel or dishcloth over that, would that be ok? No, I will take it slowly until fragrance time, have to be quick at that point

Thanks, I may well have done that.

 

[penelopejane]

I have a granite cutting board. If I drape a towel or dishcloth over that, would that be ok? No, I will take it slowly until fragrance time, have to be quick at that point

Thanks, I may well have done that.

If you use a soap safe fragrance oil you should not have to rush at all. Mix the FO with the oils before you add the lye.

I would be careful with NaOH and granite. It will eat into it if you are not careful.

 

[Phantasm]

I am using a starter pack to begin with, and a couple of additional scents. I am going to be using HP, and from what I read and see, once the zap test is passed, the mixture can thicken rather quickly, hence the need to "get on with it". I will try CP as well, but not just yet.

I feared someone would tell me I would have issues with granite. I also wondered about mixing the lye/water in the container in the sink, but now I wonder if the sink is aluminium. What do you guys do for the water/lye mixing please?

 

[Kittish]

I am using a starter pack to begin with, and a couple of additional scents. I am going to be using HP, and from what I read and see, once the zap test is passed, the mixture can thicken rather quickly, hence the need to "get on with it". I will try CP as well, but not just yet.

I feared someone would tell me I would have issues with granite. I also wondered about mixing the lye/water in the container in the sink, but now I wonder if the sink is aluminium. What do you guys do for the water/lye mixing please?

I have a big stainless steel milk frothing pitcher that I mix my lye in. Just give it a good rinse after I pour my lye solution into my oils. #2 and #5 plastics are also safe for using with lye, just make sure they're thick/heavy enough not to buckle or warp from the heat.

I'm not sure how to determine whether your sink is aluminum, but it doesn't seem likely that it would be. Is it bare metal? Or enameled?

 

[Phantasm]

Bare metal sink. Plastic jugs are heat resistant to at least 212F, I checked.

A plastic tray on worktop seems a possible solution.

 

[Kittish]

Bare metal sink. Plastic jugs are heat resistant to at least 212F, I checked.

A plastic tray on worktop seems a possible solution.

If it's bare metal, it's most likely stainless. Aluminum is too soft, you'd be forever gouging it with your silverware. Plus it'd be reactive with common drain cleaners (which are often lye-based). But again, I'm not sure how to test that to know for certain.

Yep, a plastic tray, or storage container or bucket should work.

 

[dixiedragon]

I put my lye water in a plastic pitcher with lid. I'm not sure what recycling symbols are used in your area.

 

[Phantasm]

Feel free to post your recipe here in the forum for feedback before you take the plunge. We'll let you know if something sounds off.

Do you have a particular recipe in mind? Have you chosen your lye calculator yet? I personally recommend the Soapee.com calculator, it has a nice clean user interface and is very easy to use.

Well, most of the equipment has arrived, except water distiller and the actual ingredients, both have been dispatched though and will arrive tomorrow.

The kit I am making my first batch with contains olive oil, palm oil and coconut oil. I also have a few little bottles of fragrances.

I do not want to make a large batch to start with, so I thought no more than 2lbs total weight with the following ratios:

Olive oil 30%
Coconut oil 35%
Palm oil 35%

Not too sure about superfat, maybe a little more coconut oil?


Only thing I am struggling with is how much fragrance oil in millilitres, so a little advice would be welcome, although I am not overly concerned with this, it is more a fairly hard bar that produces a creamy lather, hence slightly less olive oil than the others.

Am I on the right track guys?

 

[Arthur Dent]

That much coconut oil would have me scratching my skin off. But you might love it. Good luck.

 

[toxikon]

Well, most of the equipment has arrived, except water distiller and the actual ingredients, both have been dispatched though and will arrive tomorrow.

The kit I am making my first batch with contains olive oil, palm oil and coconut oil. I also have a few little bottles of fragrances.

I do not want to make a large batch to start with, so I thought no more than 2lbs total weight with the following ratios:

Olive oil 30%
Coconut oil 35%
Palm oil 35%

Not too sure about superfat, maybe a little more coconut oil?


Only thing I am struggling with is how much fragrance oil in millilitres, so a little advice would be welcome, although I am not overly concerned with this, it is more a fairly hard bar that produces a creamy lather, hence slightly less olive oil than the others.

Am I on the right track guys?

Most of us like no more than 20% coconut oil in our general recipes, as it's a very cleansing/drying oil. There are, of course, exceptions to the rule, but no need to worry about that right now!

I'd personally switch it to:

40% Palm Oil
40% Olive Oil
20% Coconut Oil

5% Superfat
25% Lye Concentration

For fragrances, 3-5% is the norm.

I'd plug all of that into the Soapee Calc. There's an option called "Adjust oil weights to include water in Oils total". If you're planning a 2lbs total recipe, all you have to do is put in 2lbs/32oz/907g and it'll make sure your oil, lye and water amounts are perfect to fit into your mold.

They even have an option of "Superfat after cook".

 

[Phantasm]

Thank you!

I am finding that soapee.com calculator rather confusing, so many options.

Why would I not adjust for water in oils?
I do not understand which to use, 25% lye concentration or water percentage
Why does it not allow a total batch weight input, only total oil weight?
Superfat after cook or not iI cannot find any reason for before or after cook anywhere
Fragrance oil is in little 10ml bottles, so I have no idea what weight, although I suppose I can somehow try to wiegh fragrance oils, but that seems very cumbersome.

Totally confused and a little overwhelmed by that site.

 

[toxikon]

I am finding that soapee.com calculator rather confusing, so many options.

Why would I not adjust for water in oils?
I do not understand which to use, 25% lye concentration or water percentage
Why does it not allow a total batch weight input, only total oil weight?
Superfat after cook or not iI cannot find any reason for before or after cook anywhere
Fragrance oil is in little 10ml bottles, so I have no idea what weight, although I suppose I can somehow try to wiegh fragrance oils, but that seems very cumbersome.

Totally confused and a little overwhelmed by that site.

I'll try to quickly break down a couple things for you. I know it can be confusing at first.

Step 1 - Solid or liquid soap? Pretty self-explanatory. Solid soap, as you're just using NaOH to make hard bars.

Step 2 - Recipe units. There's some personal preference in here. I like to use grams because they're the smallest unit of measurement and thus, a little more accurate. As for "adjusting oil weight to include water..." - personal preference. Some people like to go by just their oil weight, or do the calculations themselves. In your case, I'd tick the box and set "Oils total" to 2lbs (or other unit of measurement you prefer).

Step 3 - This can be confusing. I prefer to use "Lye Concentration". It's easiest to think of it in percentage terms that add up to 100. So if you're using 25% lye, you fill the rest of your 100% with water - so 75% water. 25% Lye Concentration is considered high water. The highest concentration you can achieve is a 50/50 solution (50% lye / 50% water). Any higher, and the lye won't fully dissolve. People use different lye concentrations based on personal preference and different recipes. A Lye Concentration of 25-30% is good for a newbie making a balanced recipe or doing hot process. You can ignore the "Water Discount" box.

Step 4 - Superfat. 5% is standard. Ticking the "Superfat after cook" box will add a little row to your final table telling you, in grams/oz/lbs, how much oil to add after the cook for your superfat.

Step 5 - Fragrance. Most sellers will put the maximum usage rate (in percentage) on the website description, so you can use that as a guide. Even if you go by percentage here, it will give you a lbs/oz/gram value in your final chart below.

Step 6 - Pick your oils, click the little plus button and more boxes will appear. Don't worry about the "Selected Oil Properties" - that's just a reference point for you. You will want to fill in your "Recipe Oils" box with the percentages of the oils in your recipe. 40 Palm / 40 OO / 20 CO (if that's what you wanna go with).

Once your oils add up to 100%, your recipe will appear below. It'll give you the gram/oz/lbs for everything that will go into your pot.

 

[Phantasm]

Thank you.

I have found a site that also goes a little way to explaining this stuff. It is certainly wise to do this reading up and asking questions now rather than mess it all up and lose confidence.

Oh dear, my stick blender is useless. It can only be used for 1 minute, and then has to be switched off for 10 minutes.

Great. I wish it had stated that before I bought it, not after.

 

[Kittish]

Oh dear, my stick blender is useless. It can only be used for 1 minute, and then has to be switched off for 10 minutes.

Great. I wish it had stated that before I bought it, not after.

Maybe not entirely. Use the stick blender in 5 to 10 second bursts, and just stir with it off in between. It shouldn't take more than a minute or so to bring your batter to trace, and that's all you really need the stick blender for. Mixing in colors and fragrance and any oil you add after your cook can be done with just a spoon or spatula (soap safe! no wood or aluminum). Any stirring you do while your soap is cooking you really should do with a spoon or spatula, your soap will be way too thick by then for a stick blender to cope with.

 

[Phantasm]

Thank you.

Unfortunately I heard tonight a friend died of cancer. She was only young, 40 (ish) and we knew she was ill, but the diagnosis was only six months ago, and it is a terrible shock.

My get up and go has rather dissipated for now. There is huge sadness, but i will be making the soap, hopefully tomorrow, with more than a few tears in the ingredients.

Thank you to everyone for all your help. I will let you all know just how badly I muck up my first batch....

 

[penelopejane]

Thank you.

Unfortunately I heard tonight a friend died of cancer. She was only young, 40 (ish) and we knew she was ill, but the diagnosis was only six months ago, and it is a terrible shock.

My get up and go has rather dissipated for now. There is huge sadness, but i will be making the soap, hopefully tomorrow, with more than a few tears in the ingredients.

Thank you to everyone for all your help. I will let you all know just how badly I muck up my first batch....

So sorry for your loss.

I much prefer soapcalc.net to soapee. You have to play around with SF and other options to get used to what they do but it is great.

No one in the world follows the instructions on SB'ers. Just use it normally and you will be fine.

 

[Phantasm]

There is one more ingredient I have found that is very important.

Mouthwash!

 

[SunRiseArts]

:bunny:

I know many here find CP easier than HP, but I did not venture into CP until I had done HP for about a year.

HP once you get the hang of it, you have more stable results IMO. You can start with one or no color, dealing with fragrance is way easier too, as well as cleaning afterwards.

I like Emilie's videos a lot. She is so good at explaining, and showing every detail. And you can visually see the stages of the soap.

Check her out!

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1SAK4Zz238&list=PLeRdKEBNTmT4sQUN4yFclsce6ZrYgJfJV&index=9[/ame]

 

[Phantasm]

Well, the first ever batch looks ok. Out of the mould, sliced up, appears to have the correct consistency, nice lemony smell. Away for a week from tomorrow, my try one piece when I get back, then start my next attempt. See how this one fres, and amend according or try substituting an oil for another.

Candles are also on the to do list, as a bath bombs, but no rush for those. Downloaded a nice recipe guide, will have a read when I get back next Saturday (with my new teeth!)

Thanks guys for all the advice. I am sure I will be back,

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

I wouldn't look at changing this recipe until you've used 4 week old bar for a while. How it performs at one week, two or even three would not be really representative of how it can end up performing, especially to a new soaper.

If you want to make more soap in the meantime, make something totally different, like a salt bar