Too much FO in HP soap?

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JackofallShaves

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Hey folks,

I am working on releasing new scents for my shaving soaps and tried using an FO that is rated at 16.8% max. usage rate. Most FOs I use are in the 5-7% range, so I was surprised to see this high a number. Anyways, I tried making 3 test batches with this FO with 7%, 12% and 15% FO usage. The 12% and 15% smell amazing and I tested them already, no irritation!

The problem is that the soap in the 12% and 15% batches ended up being way too soft. The batch with 7% is milder in scent and there is no discernible effect on soap hardness.

I use 75/25 KOH/NaOH in my shaving soaps and the soaps are slightly softer anyways(like Italian shaving soaps or "croaps") but these ones are almost getting into the "cream" territory. There is no weeping or separation as such, but the soap is very soft.

I have about 8 other scents in my line up and I am wondering if there is anything I can do to still use this FO at 12-15% and not have them turn out to be this soft. The only thing I can think of is may be use a 55/45 KOH/NaOH split. I currently use sodium lactate at 1 tsp ppo, can upping that help?

Finally, if I do decide to go forward with releasing this scent(cz I really like it) and do end up using a higher usage rate, do I now need to look into adding preservatives to my soap given that my soaps are softer now? I am guessing that soap consistency does not drive the need for preservative and that I don't need to add any as the water content in the recipe is the same, but would really appreciate insights from all you experts!
 
I have a lot of fragrances that have a high usage rate, up to 100%, but it only means they would be safe to touch the skin, but not necessarily a good idea to have that much in a product. I would use no more than 5%, especially because the soap will stay in the skin for longer than when showering, even if they do not cause irritation. Also, curious if you tested it for shaving or just washing.
 

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