Switch from MP to CP

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Hunter

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Hello everyone! I am thinking of switching from MP soap to CP soap. The only thing holding me back is the fact that I have already spent so much money on MP soap supplies. In fact I still have about 35 lbs of MP soap ready to craft. I believe that the scents, oxides, and utensils can still be used for CP soap. I am not sure if the plastic molds from Peaks can be or not. Does anyone know?
If I make the switch it will be when I have very little to no MP soap base left. Do you have any suggestions for the switch? Tips? Recipes? Warnings?

As of now I only give soap and candles to my family and close friends, which they pay be for the supplies for the product.

Thank you all in advance
-Hunter
 
You can use the last of the MP as embeds in the CP soap. :) Just throwing that out there! Just be sure to keep the CP soap cool, so you don't accidentally melt the embeds.
 
You know, it doesn't have to be an either/or thing. Plenty of people do both MP and CP. I once saw a GORGEOUS soap where the bottom was CP and the top was clear MP with a gold mica swirl.

As for recipes, I love www.millersoap.com.

Many colorants and FO's are good for both CP and MP, but not all. In your place, I would check each one before using.
 
Why switch? Why not do both? I have MP base but I generally only make Halloween soap with it. Love that glow in the dark powder. :thumbup:

(eta: I just saw the other posts.)

I've never bought molds from Peak but if they're just plastic then it's probably not a good idea to use them for CP unless you can prevent gelling. The heat produced while gelling can warp plastic. However, I use plastic molds for HP batches and I haven't had any problems with damage or warping.

Scents - Depends on the FO. Some will do fine in CP while others morph or fade. Some can also cause seizing or ricing with CP. I'd check to see the reviews left by other people about the FOs you have on hand.

Utensils - Make sure everything is either stainless steel, silicone or heavy plastic. You don't want to risk using anything which might be aluminum (not lye friendly) or use glass (micro-etching and possibility of glass shattering/exploding).

Oxides - possibility of morphing but I won't swear to it. I've only used red and black oxides which were stable in CP. Hopefully someone who uses oxides can give you advice or let you know if all oxides are stable.

There are recipes posted throughout the forum but check in the 'Soapmaking Recipes & Tutorials' section. Read everything you can because there is a lot of information on this forum. Tips and advice on CP isn't all in just in the CP section. I've seen information about CP in other sections interspersed with whatever topic people are discussing. I'm really bad about doing it, too. I'll be writing about something other than soap and add in "Oh, by the way....".

Keep really good notes and have fun.
 
Thank you all for the quick replies. Any good suppliers out there for CP soap making for newbies? I live in California if that helps.
 
I love Brambleberry. I think it's a good supplier for new soapers b/c it has items divided into categories. You can also order kits which will include everything (except lye for CP soap). They have their own forum called Teach Soap. It's not as active as this forum, but it's good. Most (if not all) of the users are Brambleberry customers, so you can get good feedback on specific BB products and scents.

There are also helpful customer reviews on many of the products.
 
I suggest starting out with a smaller mold and smaller batches. I started out making one pound batches of cold process. That way, if something goes wrong you don't waste so many costly supplies. I agree with Hazel, you can make both M&P and CP soaps. I do both.
 

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