Stick Blending the Fragrance

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Carl

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I've been having some major problems lately with my batches cracking. I've been fixing them after the fact by just squishing some soap from the ends into the holes and smoothing it out.

I've posted on this forum multiple times about my issue. I've blamed it on everything from hard oils, to too much insulation, to even the weather.

I was reading some posts here the other day from some other people (I can't even remember who), but I remember someone saying to "Never stick blend your fragrance, even your best ones."

I decided to take this advice and I made 4 batches last night.

I made sure that fragrance was the last thing I did before the pour and once I put the fragrance in, I only stirred with a spatula and put the stick blender away.

Well, would you know, not a single batch out of the four had cracked. Not even a little bit.

Could this have been my problem? Or am I simply looking for something else to blame for cracking batches?
 
Well, would you know, not a single batch out of the four had cracked. Not even a little bit.

Could this have been my problem? Or am I simply looking for something else to blame for cracking batches?
It could have been but very doubtful. I always put my FO into my oils before my lye, and have never had cracking or other problems.

Cracking is a sign of overheating. If you are getting cracking your soap is overheating, and FO is not necessarily always the reason for that, however if it is, it will overheat no matter what when you put it into your batter.
 
Cracking is a sign of overheating. If you are getting cracking your soap is overheating, and FO is not necessarily always the reason for that, however if it is, it will overheat no matter what when you put it into your batter.

I agree. I'm much less experienced than many on here. So, I can't speak authoritatively. I have had this problem though and I never thought to blame the FO. What I think happens is the top of the soap cools and hardens. Inside the soap is still reacting, heating and expanding. The expansion causes the hard cooler outer soap to crack. Insulation will help the top to stay warm and pliable longer so, less cracking. That worked to reduce the cracking for me. I have read that less water will mean less heat. You can try that.

Now you've given me an idea that I never thought of. While the insulation did reduce the cracking for me, it didn't completely eliminate it in all cases. I'm going to have to see if some scents crack more than others.
 
What stops the cracking for me is to put the mold on top of a cooling rack. The increased air flow below the bottom of the mold has been just enough to halt the cracking. Of course that may not work in all cases; some formulas are heavier heaters than others.
 
I do something similar to Earlene, by raising my mold up on a few cans (soup, beans). If it is a real heater like GM- OMH, I also point a blowing fan at it.

It has been explained here on other threads that moving room temp air often works better to cool your mold than the still air inside your fridge. Also, getting circulation underneath is critical, too.
 

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