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I’m happy, happy, happy with my new soap router from Wild Plantanica. I know it’s going to be some time before I get a chance to try all of the different key bits, so I organized them by types and traced them to create a Key to Key Bits, using what I hope is the same nomenclature used for router bits 😉. I added photos of my drawings and the bits below along with photos of soaps beveled with the few I’ve tried. Feel free to add photos of your beveled edges and any tip & tricks you want to share.

DD4DB20C-2DE7-4D02-9038-4A6510C6BB7E.jpeg BF59845B-1947-4F93-A3AC-5F25F274267E.jpeg
A765ACF2-8788-486F-AF0E-99E44E23E537.jpeg C5491A10-D853-4706-B7F0-61759C78A74C.jpeg

The first edge was done with what I’m calling a classic chamfer bevel with fine bead detail (page 1, row 2) and the second one with the cove on the middle of page 2. Based on the website, I think there are two cove edges available, with this being the larger one. (ETA: I just found the smaller cove bit in another room 🙂) This batch of soap was routed/beveled weeks after it was made. I used more than my usual amount of sugar and a lower lye concentration in this soap compared with my usual recipe. It hasn’t hardened all the way, but it still took several passes to get the edges cleanly cut. I learned that it’s possible to make several passes without over-beveling the edge.

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These next edges are the beaded chamfer again and the stepped chamfer on the upper left soap, also from the second row of page 1. This batch had some issues at the edges due to a weakish emulsion and the router totally saved the day. I like this combo with the larger bevel on what I want to be the ”top” face of the bar and the smaller bevel on the “bottom” face. The batch was routed when it was still a little soft because I was worried that the crumbly edges would break off If I waited. Luckily that only happened on one bar from the worst corner.

EA5C8E33-4F91-480E-A608-9E266D565263.jpeg 47C58EBC-F71B-4259-965D-4CC4DF0B2870.jpeg
 
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I was able to put a nice edge on round soaps using the flatter of the two round over bits shown on the bottom of the first page. Following the directions included with the router, I aligned/centered the soap with the bit and turned it clockwise while holding the soap firmly against the bit. The hand movement is just like opening closing a jar, and the soap spins in a circle. The lighter pink soap is made with 3% salt which didn’t cause any issues.

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TheGecko

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I received one from another soap maker and I found that 1) it works best with soap that has been cured for several weeks. I tried fresh soap and it just tore up the sides. 2) Put paper under the soap because even well cured soap will leave drag marks. I just use strips of baking paper from the local Dollar store.
 
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I received one from another soap maker and I found that 1) it works best with soap that has been cured for several weeks. I tried fresh soap and it just tore up the sides. 2) Put paper under the soap because even well cured soap will leave drag marks. I just use strips of baking paper from the local Dollar store.
Are you laying the paper down just off to the side of the key bit? It sounds like a good idea. My soaps have been pretty firm because I use 40% lye concentration, but the softest batch did end up with some faint marks on the faces.
 

TheGecko

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Are you laying the paper down just off to the side of the key bit? It sounds like a good idea. My soaps have been pretty firm because I use 40% lye concentration, but the softest batch did end up with some faint marks on the faces.
Yes...I leave just enough room for the beveling. I was leaving drag marks even with well cured soap...I'm talking soap I make last Fall. Not only does the paper eliminate the makes, it makes pushing the soap easier and quicker.

Ok, just found her on Etsy. She delivers to Aust through etsy but postage is almost $50 which makes it totally unaffordable :-(
You need to look at the overall value of the equipment. If it just did a single straight cut across the corner of the bar, I would say that it wasn't worth it. Heck, I could probably get my husband to make me something. But there are multiple options available, it is a well-made piece of equipment and can add value to your soaps.
 
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I discovered today that it’s easier to cut a deep complex bevel if I do a shallow one first because there’s less soap to remove on the second pass and less resistance. I lined the two key bits up to make sure that the first bit would not cut into the body of soap needed for the second cut.

I’m curious about the optimal time for beveling with the router. I’m sure it’s recipe dependent. My soaps are fairly firm when they come out of the mold, in part because I’m using 40% lye concentration. I don’t want them to get too hard to make the deeper cuts, but I think they are going to need more than a week especially now that it’s summer and a bit humid even with the AC and a dehumidifier running.
 

dibbles

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I discovered today that it’s easier to cut a deep complex bevel if I do a shallow one first because there’s less soap to remove on the second pass and less resistance. I lined the two key bits up to make sure that the first bit would not cut into the body of soap needed for the second cut.

I’m curious about the optimal time for beveling with the router. I’m sure it’s recipe dependent. My soaps are fairly firm when they come out of the mold, in part because I’m using 40% lye concentration. I don’t want them to get too hard to make the deeper cuts, but I think they are going to need more than a week especially now that it’s summer and a bit humid even with the AC and a dehumidifier running.
Have you tried beveling an older bar? I can bevel at 4 weeks without issue, but my lye concentration isn't normally that steep.
ETA: good tip to make two passes - thanks!
 

Relle

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Ok, just found her on Etsy. She delivers to Aust through etsy but postage is almost $50 which makes it totally unaffordable :-(
I agree, just worked it out it will be $170 AUD, way too expensive, when you can get a cheaper planer.
Also the flower discs are $15.34 AUD and it costs $29.45 postage (nearly double to post for a disc that could be put in an envelope.:eek:
 

Sandiebrown65

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I agree, just worked it out it will be $170 AUD, way too expensive, when you can you a cheaper planer.
Also the flower discs are $15.34 AUD and it costs $29.45 postage (nearly double to post for a disc that could be put in an envelope.:eek:
Yes, I find the postage on Etsy to be crazy sometimes. I have decided to print my own little beveller and there are also some pull through designs I found that I can print as well. Will see how this one works
 

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Relle

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A lot of places O/S would have more sales if they didn't price gouge the postage. Let me know how you go with the printing.

Yes, I find the postage on Etsy to be crazy sometimes. I have decided to print my own little beveller and there are also some pull through designs I found that I can print as well. Will see how this one works

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