SMF February 2022 Challenge - Ocean-Inspired

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poured at barely an emulsion
For anyone trying the one pot wonder technique shown in the Cheeky Goat Soaps video, are you finding that it's best to have a thin or medium trace for the different colours to show better?
In my one attempt I poured at emulsion but I think the colours mixed a bit. They did seep out to another area of the mold so the emulsion stage itself might not be the culprit in my case, but curious to see if anyone else is finding the same.
 
For anyone trying the one pot wonder technique shown in the Cheeky Goat Soaps video, are you finding that it's best to have a thin or medium trace for the different colours to show better?
In my one attempt I poured at emulsion but I think the colours mixed a bit. They did seep out to another area of the mold so the emulsion stage itself might not be the culprit in my case, but curious to see if anyone else is finding the same.
For the first time, I did the One Pot Wonder as shown in the Roko video. I poured at emulsion and got great results. Frankly, I don't think it would even work at light or medium trace. In my case, just like Roko, I poured in multiple separate steps. That is, I poured color 1, color 2, color 3 into a cup and then poured that into the mold. Then again I poured color 1, color 2, color 3 into a cup and then poured that into the mold. It took a long time to fill the mold. If I had light or medium trace, I would be afraid that it would thicken up too much making pouring difficult. I hope that made sense how I explained it!
 
For the first time, I did the One Pot Wonder as shown in the Roko video. I poured at emulsion and got great results. Frankly, I don't think it would even work at light or medium trace. In my case, just like Roko, I poured in multiple separate steps. That is, I poured color 1, color 2, color 3 into a cup and then poured that into the mold. Then again I poured color 1, color 2, color 3 into a cup and then poured that into the mold. It took a long time to fill the mold. If I had light or medium trace, I would be afraid that it would thicken up too much making pouring difficult. I hope that made sense how I explained it!
Thanks for mentioning this! It is very clear. I didn't notice and on my first try I thought it was each colour going in at one time, so all colour 1, all colour 2, all colour 3, etc. I'll go and rewatch Roko's video.

On a happier note, I have unmolded my soap after my divider oversight and much to my surprise somehow the design came out. So I might have a soap to enter after all :dance:
(I guess I just have to figure out if the ocean part left in the cut soap is at least 60% since some of the batter migrated elsewhere)
 
Thanks for mentioning this! It is very clear. I didn't notice and on my first try I thought it was each colour going in at one time, so all colour 1, all colour 2, all colour 3, etc.
We had a challenge here on SMF where the instructions required you to do all of each color at one time. But lots of folks out in the wild do it the way Zing did his. It's still a legitimate OPW -- just not what our specific challenge instructions required that one time. :)
 
Sorry for nitpicking, but no matter how carefully a rule is written, it isn't safe from ambiguous interpretation by “creative minds”. 🙄

Submission photograph of exactly one, or at least one bar?

My original design idea works best with three bars or more. I could pick one for the official submission, but I'd really prefer to have this extra flexibility here.


ETA: No fear, it won't be the manta ray (mirror symmetry as a design element).

ETA²: 🤔
Sorry for the delay. It was a long work day.
Post at least one bar. My intent was to make it easy to use a small batch size or to create a labor-intensive design, such as a carved soap.


As for the OPW or any soap where the batter is layered before pouring, I usually aim for a thin cream consistency emulsion to start. If the second color doesn’t form a reasonably crisp line against the first color when you add it to the cup or pitcher, you can always give the batter a little time to thicken up. If you’re using natural colorants, the line may not look as crisp as with micas. Also keep in mind that the rate of thickening may be colorant dependent (We’re looking at you, TD) in addition to whatever is happening due to the recipe, scent, blending, etc. The good news is that layering batter of different consistencies can lead to neat results. Whatever consistency you achieve, may the force flow be with you!
 
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Another finding from my antique pigment dungeon:

umbra.jpg

Not quite as exotic as the ultramarines, but from over the sea as well (cypr. = from Cyprus).

The label is hilarious nostalgia (Germany switched to 5-digit zip codes in 1993. And also – typewriter???).
 
Work better on a deadline? Now’s your chance!
My problem is that I keep changing my mind about the design I want to make. Then there is the time spent looking at ocean pictures, which inevitably include tropical islands, which leads to pricing airline tickets and hotels....
 
A few words to the colours of my submission: I grossly underestimated how salt makes colours look pale and dull, and this mostly nullified my ombrés too… The blue pour is a gradient between full-concentration ultramarine green (turquoise-aqua-cyan), with increasing levels of dark ultramarine violet (deep indigo colour) mixed in gradually. But you can barely guess that there is a gradient. It nearly appears as if the free surface of the bars is the only thing that wasn't light turquoise-blue, but caught some weird azure-coloured soda ash. So much for deep sea…

cocosalt_detail.jpg

The white pour is uncoloured batter with gradual addition of caramel colouring, and even less visible.

I was really generous with colour … about 1 tsp of pigment for 200 g oils (or should I better include the amount of salt into the soap weight?), and the batter itself was nice and deep coloured.
cocosalt_cyan.jpg
Same with the white-to-tan gradient. Hardly anything to see here.

Once the cubes were set and umnoulded (1-2 days), I wiped them with a damp cloth, in the hope to remove some of the dull look from them, maybe make the colours pop out a bit better … nope.
The cube mould has a small hole at the top – time to squeeze soap dough in there, as anchors for the soap-dough coconuts.

Slightly related, I'm surprised how sensitive salt bars are to scratches. I handled them with what I thought was reasonable care, but they really don't forgive the slightest mechanical damage (at least at that age of 1–2 days).
 
is setting a high bar
Not that high, though. Even when we count the sprout, neither of the bars exceeds 4.5 cm high. It should be easy-peasy for anyone in possession of a loaf mould, to get higher than that.

cocosalt_height.jpg

ETA: I just realised that in the I-dump-the-remaining-batter bar (right), the sand-colour ombré is actually quite well visible.
 
@Zing that gif is sure to become an SMF classic! It's perfect for when someone misquotes DeeAnna, fails to run a recipe through the calculator, or suggests using vinegar to rinse lye off the skin.... so many potential applications. 😁

ETA: a thread about soap as shampoo, or someone says they have soap at 7pH.... yes, we can use this gif!!
 
@ResolvableOwl How the heck can you lose brown pigment in a soap? A new vanilla color corrector? On a somewhat related note, possible a clue for the chemist in you, I made a layered madder pink salty soap (salt added at 3% TOW, plus briny lye) a week ago. When I cut the soap I was quite satisfied and it wasn’t until the following day that I remembered the secret swirl feather I added in the top layer using batter with TD added. I couldn’t find it at all on Day 2, but can see it now, a week later. Maybe some soap magic will bring back your ombrés. I kind of wish the feather had stayed invisible because I missed the center of the layered soap and it looks more like a fork.
 
Hrm. My imagination would appreciate some photos. The layers only differ in TD/no TD? I have no experience with madder, and only know from hearsay that it is tricky to get a strong colour out of it. Hrm yes, the anthraquinone dyes. I don't have high hopes though that my ultramarines are anywhere near as temperamental as your alizarin magic.

A new vanilla color corrector?
😍 Great idea! Now I know what I'll do to the remaining 2 mL of my disappointing vanilla FO. Not that salt bars are known for keeping fragrance particularly well, but that's not the point here.
 

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