Skin irritations due to handmade soap

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TheGecko

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I usually cure my soaps for two months as it is better that way... And in the first 6 months I used 30% coconut oil, 30% palm oil and 30% ricebran oil...

Your recipe is only 90%...what was the other 10%. While Coconut is very water soluble and you used 30%, it still doesn't explain why your soaps only last a week.
 
Your recipe is only 90%...what was the other 10%. While Coconut is very water soluble and you used 30%, it still doesn't explain why your soaps only last a week.
sorry i missed typing it fully.. it was castor 5%, coconut 30%, palm oil 32%, rice bran 30%, olive pomace 3%..
 
I'd simplify your recipe and not use any scent until you determine what is going on. Maybe try this, should be long lasting and mild.

50% palm
20% coconut
25% olive or rice bran
5% castor

SF 5%, no other additives.

Also, some people simply can't use lye soap and need a gentle synthetic instead.
I agree with this 100%.
i have recently made a batch with palm 30%, coconut 20%, olive pomace 30% castor 5%, shea butter 15%.
Do let us know how this one turns out. For my area, this would be a pretty solid soap recipe.
 
For those of you who are asking her about the soaps that dissolved too fast, she has already fixed that issue by reformulating, per this quote from her original post: "I learned to make harder soaps using other additives and by changing oils..."

So the only issue now is the skin irritation. I agree with @Obsidian's recommendation to eliminate ALL essential oils, and also with the other recommendations to lower the coconut oil. If that doesn't resolve the issue, then some allergy testing by a qualified dermatologist would be my strong recommendation.
 
Yes, these articles do answer my question about chelators, especially the first article on chelator limitations. Thank you! I won’t be modifying my soap recipe with citric acid since it won’t prevent soap scum in my hard water.
As for dreaded orange spots and chelators, I use distilled water in my soap recipes and found DOS stems from oils going rancid in the soap.
 
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Yes, these articles do answer my question about chelators. Thank you! I won’t be modifying my soap recipe with citric acid since it won’t prevent soap scum in my hard water.
I don't think you read the correct link. Citric acid absolutely works to prevent soap scum in hard water. You can either add it directly as citric acid, and make the required lye adjustments, or use sodium citrate without a lye adjustment. Read here:

https://classicbells.com/soap/citrate.asp
 
I don't think you read the correct link. Citric acid absolutely works to prevent soap scum in hard water. You can either add it directly as citric acid, and make the required lye adjustments, or use sodium citrate without a lye adjustment. Read here:

https://classicbells.com/soap/citrate.asp
My apologies, the link you just posted is the one I thought I was linking to. I shouldn't post as I'm heading out the door.
 
Lemongrass EO is a known skin sensitizer for many people. However, I agree that doing a zap test is first priority, just to be sure the soap isn’t lye-heavy.
 

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