Simple liquid soap

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sephera

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Hi

What is the simplest liquid soap to make. That requires least effort and time.

I have Glycerine and the oils and hard oils. The have KOH and that's it.

I looked at Irish Lass recipe but there's a whole lot of extra ingredients at dilution stage.

The soap I want is all purpose maybe a base which you can add more super fat to make it a hand soap or none to make it all purpose cleaner ans dish wash.

Lee
 
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Use the IrishLass recipe, then just use the 0.75:1 water/paste dilution ratio. That will give you an awesome hand soap.

For dish soap, you need to make 100% coconut oil soap with 0% superfat.

Two simple recipes. You can make both using cold process. Easy peasy.
 

sephera

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Can I use Kitchen pots and whisks to make this or does things need to be soap only equipment.
 

MullersLaneFarm

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I used my kitchen pots (except for the dilution with the EDTA & polysorbate80) ... it's only soap, right?

Think about it .... you are going to be washing your dishes with this soap ... :mrgreen:
 
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You need to use only stainless steel pots and whisks. You don't want to use anything aluminum because it can react to lye. You also don't want to use anything that will absorb odors in case you want to use scents.

You absolutely must have a good digital scale, gloves, and goggles. Those are non-negotiable.
 

sephera

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Hi

I made the soap by heating the Glycerine and lye. It got very hot I may have gotten some fumes and heat on my chest and cause permanent damage. I don't think the method should be used. No I am not sure what to do.
 

sephera

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I am getting a rash every now and then on chest and other areas.
 

Allison Mason

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Hi, i made a liquid soap, it is clear and thick which i like, but when i add fragrance to it it gets white, what can i do?
 

DeeAnna

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Two options from my point of view -- Accept the change in transparency and enjoy the scent. The soap might change back to transparent with time, but there are no guarantees. The other option is to use a different scent that doesn't alter the transparency of the soap.

Another tip -- Always test fragrances on a sample, not on the whole batch. Changes in transparency and texture (thicker, thinner, curdled) from the scent, whether EOs or FOs, are quite common.
 

Rune

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Can I use Kitchen pots and whisks to make this or does things need to be soap only equipment.

If you are using a crockpot to make the soap, remember that the coating on the crock, the ceramic glaze, is made of glass (more or less). And lye will break down glass over time. That's why you can see that soapmaker's crockpots are all matte on the inside, most often. When the glass coating gets broken down, the metals and other ingredients they use to make ceramic glazes, can potentially leak out, I guess (but I don't know). So a crockpot might not be safe for food after it have been in contact with lye.

For the last batch, I stirred my lye with a black plastic whisk. I saw that the lye water got a slight brownish tint. So I will not use that whisk again. And I guess it will most certainly not be safe for food.

Stainless steel can also be destroyed by lye. Well, it can't, if it is of good quality. I used a stainless steel pot once (cheap crap), but I guess it wasn't just stainless steel, because it got blackish at the bottom and sides. I had to throw the pot away. And the soap too (it was a disaster soap anyway).
 

earlene

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Some soapers do use their stainless steel pots for cooking as well as for soaping. Many dedicate certain or all equipment to soaping only, be it SS, crockpot, plastic-ware and silicone spatulas.

Regarding SS, there are a few threads here at SMF that address the grades or ratings of stainless steel as it pertains to lye use. Here is one of the more recent ones:
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/is-there-a-test-for-stainless-steel.63938/

I use SS spoons and SS whisks as well as a SS pitcher that do not get any visible damage to them by their exposure to lye, so I am convinced they of the higher grade SS. Even though I would not be concerned about using my two SS soaping spoons for eating a meal, I don't because I prefer to keep all my soaping stuff separate. In my mind, if I don't allow cross-over for any item, I won't accidentally grab something that really wouldn't be safe for food cross-over.
 

sephera

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Hi All I don't recommend cooking Glycerine and KCL at home. It gets very hot and can damage your chest by getting too close.
 
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Why were you cooking glycerin and KCL to begin with? KOH is used to make soap...j/k. I would never recommend it at any rate, mix that KOH with equal amount of water and add the remainder of the "water" amount to the oils.

And when you say damage...please define with a real diagnosis from a doctor. Otherwise, you are simply spreading your phobia.
 

sephera

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Hi All, I think I am ok now. But in future making soap I recommend wear closed up protective gear.
 

Zany_in_CO

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Hi All, I think I am ok now. But in future making soap I recommend wear closed up protective gear.
Aw, Sephera, my heart goes out to you. For what it's worth, there are as many ways to make LS as there are LS-ers. Meaning, Irish Lass's LS is NOT the best way to learn how to make it. Using glycerin to make the lye solution is not only dangerous, but it is an advanced technique best suited for experienced soapmakers who understand the basics.
 

DeeAnna

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I'm not convinced even experienced soap makers should use this method. From what I've seen, no one has claimed soap made with this method is any different or better than soap made with the "dissolve KOH in water" method. So why take such a big risk for so very little reward?
 

Zany_in_CO

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From what I've seen, no one has claimed soap made with this method is any different or better than soap made with the "dissolve KOH in water" method.
I dissolve KOH in water for most of the LS formulas I make, but they all have a high % of coconut oil, or, as in the case of my "Hog Wash", 50/50 PKO & lard.

I think of it as just another tool in the LS-er's tool box. Where the glycerin method comes in handy for me is for 100% liquid oil, i.e., olive oil, almond oil, or my Dr Bronner's Baby Mild Castile Dupe that has a mix of liquid oils.

With glycerin, the mixture goes from trace to soap in a matter of minutes... (using Carrie's glycerin LS method) ...way better than the amount of time it takes to make 100% olive oil castile which can take a long time to reach trace, and then fully saponify by whatever process I use. KOH in glycerin is not only fast but kinda exciting, LOL, if you know what you're doing and take good care, of course.
 

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