Shaving soap questions (rebatching and molds)

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Well-Known Member
Sep 12, 2007
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I want to make CP GM soap with clay for my BF to be a shaving soap. I plan to use olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, and almond oil. The problem is, shaving soaps are circular disk things that fit into little cups. I don't have a mold like that (yet) but have just received my wooden mold. I also don't have clay yet. (Getting Bentonite Clay, unless someone has other suggestions.) So I was thinking of just making the base and rebatching it with clay and putting them in mold.

How long does a CP GM soap need to cure before you attempt to rebatch it? (I tried 2-4 day old soap and it was messy. You just about squish it through the grater...haha) Is there such thing as waiting too long to rebatch? Rebatching makes the soap available to use sooner right? Why is that?

Is there a more interesting way to give someone shaving soap kit than just buying a kit which comes with the cup and brush and just replacing their soap with mine? Do shaving soaps come in bars? I want to make it a special gift so presentation is also a concern than just making the soap. Ideas? (Shesh, do I need to learn how to make pottery too?) HAHA


Well-Known Member
Jul 28, 2007
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Hot Desert of Cali
This is FYI only! These suggestions and/or instructions are NOT to be copied, pasted or partially copied into any other forum, letter, e-mail or document. If I find out that there are copies of this exact letter on the net other than myself, consequences will follow!

Ok….now that’s out of the way, have fun!

I suggest you add no more than 2 teaspoons (10 mls) of liquid per 100 g of soap base. Larger amounts of liquid may change the appearance of the resulting soaps. Liquids can be milk (cow's milk, goat's milk, coconut milk etc.), distilled water or herbal teas. Keep in mind that milk or tea might discolor with heat. If you're planning to add colors (such as cosmetic grade oxides or ultramarines), adding milk or tea may affect the final results.

I suggest you add 1 to 2 teaspoons (5 to 10 mls) of extra oils per 100 g of soap base. If you wish to color your soaps, you can use this extra oil for dissolving powdered colors.

Oils or butters can be added at the beginning of the cook to obtain a smoother, easier to mold consistency. Adding oils at the beginning of the cook may however affect their "live" properties.

Always add your fragrance or essential oils when the cooked soap has cooled down a bit.

I particularly like this method because you are less likely to "burn" the soap or cause it to turn a caramel color.


1. Place a 3-quart pot of water on the stovetop and bring to a boil.

2. Grate your soap base or cut the soap into very small cubes (if the soap is still fresh).

3. Place the grated soap into an oven bag. Oven bags can be found at your local grocery store near the zip lock bags.

4. Close the open end of the bag with a rubber band.

5. Fold over the top of the bag and tie with another rubber band.

6. Place the bag into a boiling pot of water.

7. Boil for 1 hour untouched.

8. Carefully remove the bag from the water. Using warming mitts, to protect your hands, place the bag of soap on a counter and knead.

9. The soap will turn to a mushy smooth consistency. If at this point you have not reached this consistency, return to the bag of soap to the boiling water for 30 minutes. Repeat as needed.

10. Add your cosmetic grade fragrance and cosmetic grade color to the soap base. It is important to use cosmetic grade because these additives have been tested for skin contact. The last thing you want to do is make a beautiful soap to only have someone develop a reaction from a non-approved additive.

11. Twist the bag and close with another rubber band.

12. Knead the bag to completely mix the additives.

13. Snip the corner of the bag.

14. Spray your soap mold with a light coating of PAM or the oil of choice.

15. Squeeze the soap out of the bag into the molds. Like the technique that pastry cooks use to decorate cakes.

16. Smooth the top of the soap as needed.

17. Let the soap sit until firm. Our soap sat approximately 3 hours. Unmold.

18.Often the bottom of the bar of soap is irregular or uneven. You can use a knife or a soap planer to shave off the bumps.

19.Let the soap cure until fully hard. This will take anywhere from hours to a week. The length of time depends on the room temperature, humidity and the amount of fluid you added.

20. Package and enjoy!


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