Shave soap questions

[KiwiMoose]

For the life of me I cannot find my thread about my shaving soap trial! So starting a new convo here:

I have had a tester write some feedback for me, and essentially I need a more stable lather, and more 'cushioning'. Would more stearic provide both of these qualities? Would KoH provide any of these qualities (currently using just NaOH).

TIA.

 

[SeaSuds]

is this it here: https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/shave-soap-in-a-cup.77561/

 

[SeaSuds]

I do think that KOH makes a big difference to making a lather thicker and more cushioning in shaving soap. Below is a picture of lather with 80% KOH and 20% NaOH in my CP shaving soap (soy wax). It stuck to my hand as I walked around the house (several times!) looking for my phone to take a pic!! It has been curing for 3 weeks. KOH does something I don't really have the words for...it fluffs up the lather and makes it more 'full-some' kind of thing! I now use it at 3-5% in all of my 'normal' soaps as well. From what I've read, the recommendation is to have more than 50% stearic in your recipe for shave soap

 

[shunt2011]

KOH makes all the difference in the world to shave soap. My ex tried several I bought that were only NAOH and once I made it myself with KOH he was sold. I have quite a few die hard customers.

 

[IrishLass]

Speaking only from my own experience with the experiments I've done on my shave formula over the years, more stearic acid will definitely help with cushion and stable lather, truly, either with or without KOH I've found (at least with my own formula)....... but as the others have said, using part KOH for some of the lye takes things to the next level and makes it even better. The biggest thing adding KOH did for my own formula was making it more soluble so that my hubby doesn't have to spend as much effort to get the lather worked up as compared to the 100% NaOH version of my formula..... which is something that always eluded me with my formula which otherwise has excellent cushion and stability, but took a bit of elbow grease to get the lather worked up. KOH was the missing piece that my formula needed to make it easier to lather without me having to increase my coconut oil % (which would've made the lather less cushioning and stable). I use a combo of 80% KOH 20% NaOH. I tried making a 100% KOH batch once, but the fellers didn't like it as much as the combo lye batches.


IrishLass

 

[KiwiMoose]

Thank you so much - off to find some KoH now. Was trying to avoid using it, but it looks like that's the missing piece.
I don't think I can buy it 'off the shelf' here which means I have to pay additional courier charges for shipping dangerous goods :-(

ETA: One company won't ship it at all - the other company will ship but they sell minimum 1 kilo and it's $30 for courier.

 

[KiwiMoose]

Dum question - do I add both lyes to the same water?
And is 90% active koH ok?
ETA: scrap that - just read @DeeAnna ’s advice on Classic Bells