Seized soap help!

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em79

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Hi I wanted some advice , I tried CP for the third time tonite and it seized when I added the fragrance . This also happened the first time using another fragrance ,but my 2nd attempt was a success . So what I would like to know is how do I fix it ? Can it be fixed?
 
Fragrances can cause acceleration, which causes seizing. If you used a different recipe, with that same FO and you didnt have an issue with seizing, then it may be the different recipe. If you used the same recipe, with the same FO and got seizing one time but not the other, then it could be your soaping temperature. Depending on your recipe, you may want to look into loweing your temps!

ETA: if you tell us your recipe/temps, it wil help
 
Different recipe and different FO I added my lye water to my oils when they were both around 125F
It was a lovely consistency I didn't reach trace I wanted to try to do some neat design and colours so I left it runny so I would have time to play but as soon as I added that FO it just seized .
I tried reheating it until it was runny again to pour but it was like the HP consistency and I plopped it all into the mould and its gelling . Do you think It will still be useable?
 
Was it a floral or water scent? Something with clove in it? Those are notorious for accelerating and seizing. FO's with vanilla will discolor to various shades of brown. When I'm using an FO/EO for the 1st time, I always research it thoroughly through the company I bought it from or here at SMF. There's a great fragrance oil review chart you can find as a sticky under "Fragrance oils/fragrance Reviews."

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...CMTEtswL#gid=0

You can rebatch if you want but since I HATE doing that, I keep it to use in later batches. I shred it with a cheese grater (salad shooter) and add it as confetti. Just zap test to make sure it's safe first. As galaxy said, posting your full recipe will help troubleshoot. :grin:
 
Yes to everything that Krista said. And dont worry. The soap will be fine to use! As long as you didnt exceed FO recomendations of course (oh, and it doesnt zap!).

Most but not all floral FO's accelerate, Most but not all Ozone-y scents accelerate. There are also some that dont follow that trend but still accerate.
 
Different recipe and different FO I added my lye water to my oils when they were both around 125F
It was a lovely consistency I didn't reach trace I wanted to try to do some neat design and colours so I left it runny so I would have time to play but as soon as I added that FO it just seized .
I tried reheating it until it was runny again to pour but it was like the HP consistency and I plopped it all into the mould and its gelling . Do you think It will still be useable?

Your soap should be fine with a cure. I've had FO cause a seize and will generally just leave it in the pot until it goes into gel phase then put it in my mold.

I would soap a bit cooler personally (I room temp soap) and try adding the FO to your oils before adding the lye mixture. That way you will usually have a bit more time to work with the batter. The only time I add the FO/EO is if I'm trying to make multiple colors with a difficult scent I will add the FO just before pouring and use only a spoon or whisk to mix it in.

It takes trial and error for some fragrances and recipes.
 
It was a vanilla cheesecake scent .

2oz Black seed oil
4oz sweet almond oil
4oz avocado oil
5oz coconut oil
2 oz olive oil
8oz Palm oil
3oz peanut oil
Super fat 5%
 
Different recipe and different FO I added my lye water to my oils when they were both around 125F
It was a lovely consistency I didn't reach trace I wanted to try to do some neat design and colours so I left it runny so I would have time to play but as soon as I added that FO it just seized .
I tried reheating it until it was runny again to pour but it was like the HP consistency and I plopped it all into the mould and its gelling . Do you think It will still be useable?

After 24 hours, unmold and cut if it is firm enough. Then do a simple Zap test. Wet your finger and rub it on your soap, then touch the finger to your tongue. Zap will happen if the soap still has active lye in it. It will not hurt you but will give a very distinctive sensation like getting a mild shock. (Similar to touching your tongue to a 9volt battery). Chances are there will be no zap, even if there is wait a week and retest. As long as the soap is zap free it is safe to use, however it is highly recommended that you leave your soap out to cure a minimum of 4 weeks (6-8 weeks is better) to cure before using. (This does not mean you can't "test" small pieces of it before cure is done. )

Short answer, most likely your soap will be fine to use.
 
I'm usually a HP soaper and I get awesome results but I wanted to have another shot at CP but it don't look like I'm any good and I should just stick to what is safer lol
 
I'm usually a HP soaper and I get awesome results but I wanted to have another shot at CP but it don't look like I'm any good and I should just stick to what is safer lol

Oh my, you dont have to think like that! I used to think the same way! CP soap just takes some getting used to. I've also learned that its good to test FO's out before using them in a small 1-2 oz amount of batter and compare to a control to see if I get acceleration! It's very helpful. You can also go by manufacture notes and reveiws if you fragrance has them.

I would also soap at a lower temp. I used to do HP exclusively and in the past year I've started to do CP again. I really like the creative liscence it gives me! But, it can require more planning. All the more reason to feel successful when it comes out how you want it to!
 
Thanks Galaxy I'm just having a sulk , I was really excited to try this out since so many inspiring artists on here got me wanting to have a go.
 
You can do this, em79! Everyone here struggled through (and still do) with seizing, accelerating, morphing and all manner of issues. You've only done 3 CP batches so don't throw in the towel.:-D

Doing a test batch is always a good way to go when using a new FO for the 1st time. I'd say your problem was the temps of the lye and oils. Try going down to about 100* since you're using palm oil. It's melting point is 95* so I like to stay above that to avoid steric spots. Once you're to emulsification, stir in your FO with a whisk or spatula. If I know I'm using an accelerating FO and want to add design, I usually use it to my advantage. I bring the batter to emulsification then divide and color the portions. I then add a portion of the FO to the first color, mix and pour. Add a portion to the next color, mix and pour. Continue on until you're done. You can create some nice layers this way that won't break through to the one below because the batter is already very thick.

I don't plan a complicated swirl unless I'm using an FO and recipe that I've used before and know it won't cause me problems. You'll find your groove, em79 but it takes time! :thumbup:
 
You can do this, em79! Everyone here struggled through (and still do) with seizing, accelerating, morphing and all manner of issues. You've only done 3 CP batches so don't throw in the towel.:-D

Doing a test batch is always a good way to go when using a new FO for the 1st time. I'd say your problem was the temps of the lye and oils. Try going down to about 100* since you're using palm oil. It's melting point is 95* so I like to stay above that to avoid steric spots. Once you're to emulsification, stir in your FO with a whisk or spatula. If I know I'm using an accelerating FO and want to add design, I usually use it to my advantage. I bring the batter to emulsification then divide and color the portions. I then add a portion of the FO to the first color, mix and pour. Add a portion to the next color, mix and pour. Continue on until you're done. You can create some nice layers this way that won't break through to the one below because the batter is already very thick.

I don't plan a complicated swirl unless I'm using an FO and recipe that I've used before and know it won't cause me problems. You'll find your groove, em79 but it takes time! :thumbup:
This is very good advice. Usually seizures are due to fo. When I have a know seizing fo I work with it just like Krista does or use a single color.
 
I'm usually a HP soaper and I get awesome results but I wanted to have another shot at CP but it don't look like I'm any good and I should just stick to what is safer lol

Really there is little difference, even HP soap could be lye heavy, and both require a cure. Out of thousands of batches I would say a handful zapped when first cut, I've yet to have a batch zap after curing.
 
You can do this, em79! Everyone here struggled through (and still do) with seizing, accelerating, morphing and all manner of issues. You've only done 3 CP batches so don't throw in the towel.:-D

Doing a test batch is always a good way to go when using a new FO for the 1st time. I'd say your problem was the temps of the lye and oils. Try going down to about 100* since you're using palm oil. It's melting point is 95* so I like to stay above that to avoid steric spots. Once you're to emulsification, stir in your FO with a whisk or spatula. If I know I'm using an accelerating FO and want to add design, I usually use it to my advantage. I bring the batter to emulsification then divide and color the portions. I then add a portion of the FO to the first color, mix and pour. Add a portion to the next color, mix and pour. Continue on until you're done. You can create some nice layers this way that won't break through to the one below because the batter is already very thick

I don't plan a complicated swirl unless I'm using an FO and recipe that I've used before and know it won't cause me problems. You'll find your groove, em79 but it takes time! :thumbup:


Your a champ I'm gonna give it another go and using your priceless advice
This is a pic of how to turned out this morning

image.jpg
 
They still smell great it was meant to be a very berry cheesecake . I had to force the embeds into it making a huge mess lol it's not pretty but smells yummy
 
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