Sea salt using Red Moroccan clay

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Spice

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Can I use Red Moroccan clay and sea salt together? Im not to familiar with clays. Would that be over the top using the two and be more drying?
 
It all depends on the rest of the recipe, but I bet it would work out nicely. Id make sure to use full water and Id probably mix the clay right in with the water before the lye, and stir well before adding to the oils so as not to leave any clay behind. With the 20% superfat typical on salt bars, I do not find them drying at all, even with 80% coconut oil.
 
It all depends on the rest of the recipe, but I bet it would work out nicely. Id make sure to use full water and Id probably mix the clay right in with the water before the lye, and stir well before adding to the oils so as not to leave any clay behind. With the 20% superfat typical on salt bars, I do not find them drying at all, even with 80% coconut oil.

I didnt know that salt bars needed to be superfatted:-(. And since I've never worked with clay, I didnt know to add the clay to water before lye, either. Boy I have alot to learn.
 
Yes, salt bars should be at least 80% coconut oil so they will lather well and that means a increased SF so they won't be drying. 15-20% SF is the standard for a salt bar.
Salt bars also set up pretty dang fast and if you wait too long to cut, they will crumble. Need to check every hour or so and as soon as the loaf if firm enough to unmold, you need to cut. Using cavity molds saves you from having to time the cutting.
Dry ingredients are much easier to get mixed in if they are wet first. You don't have to add it to the lye water but it cuts out a step that way.
 
I know that clays are water soluable, but I sift them over my warm oils and let sit for 15 minutes - then stick blend; followed by the lye solution. That works great for me.

I have heard that Red Moroccan Clay stains - tubs and washcloths - so I have been afraid to use it.
 
Never heard of clays staining. I suppose it could if you use way too much. I know too much of some oxides and charcoal can stain.

A typical use for clays is 1 tsp up to 1 tbs PPO. I tend to use 1 tbs per 3 lb batch so that comes out to roughly 1 tsp PPO.
 
I have heard that Red Moroccan Clay stains - tubs and washcloths - so I have been afraid to use it.
I've not noticed that, even on the batch I used way too much (1.75 Tbsp in 14 ounces of oils), but I don't have any white washcloths either...
 
It all depends on the rest of the recipe, but I bet it would work out nicely. Id make sure to use full water and Id probably mix the clay right in with the water before the lye, and stir well before adding to the oils so as not to leave any clay behind. With the 20% superfat typical on salt bars, I do not find them drying at all, even with 80% coconut oil.

Do ALL clay need to be add into the lye/water before using?
 
If you just dump the dry clay powder in, it clumps. Better to disperse it in something first.
 
I order my clay and as soon as I get I will use your guide of 1 tsp to 1 tbs PPO. I think that will work for now. Hope to have my clay and soap by end of week. However, I will be at a car show this weekend so I will post ASAP after that. Love this forum. :razz:
Never heard of clays staining. I suppose it could if you use way too much. I know too much of some oxides and charcoal can stain.

A typical use for clays is 1 tsp up to 1 tbs PPO. I tend to use 1 tbs per 3 lb batch so that comes out to roughly 1 tsp PPO.
 
YES! You can HP salt bars!

All my salt bars are HP. Recommendations: Definitely use SL (2% ppo) - it helps with the fluidity and crustiness. Be prepared to work uninterruped and fast. Definitely recommend silicone mold with individual cavities (I use one from Brambleberry that has 12 rectantular 4 oz cavities). Put mold on cookie sheet. Don't overcook! Don't waste time trying to even out the cavities - get it poured in as quick as you can. Bang well on counter then cover with Glad Wrap Press N Seal or wax paper. Smooth tops of soap well.

- About an hour after you mold the soap, it will be will be almost firm. If you can gently remove it without denting in, do so. At this point, if I can handle soap without damaging it, I use a planner and smooth the tops well.

- Fine or superfine salts work best. I use Mediterreanan sea salt, black lava Hawaiian salt, or pink Himalayan salt. Photos are one of each type of salt. The black lava salt bars are Eucalyptus EO, the white salt bars are a spa FO, and the pink are a blend of pink grapefruit and Bergamot EOs. The black lava have a little activated charcoal and the pink grapefruit have a little French pink clay.

All done HP crock pot. 50% salt. 20% SF. 1 oz EO/FO ppo. 2% SL. Recipes for all were 85% coconut oil, 15% avocado oil (or a butter), and 5% castor oil. I use 1 tsp ppo DME (dry malt extract) in all my soap recipes except my 100% coconut oil 20% SF soap.

- At Christmas I make some that look exactly like chimney bricks.

------------------------------------
www.sadiesmissionsoaps.com


I can do a HP salt bar too?

Black Hawaiian Lava Salt Soap.jpg


Pink Grapefruit and Bergamot Salt Soap.jpg


Salt & Shea Spa Soap.jpg
 
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Do ALL clay need to be add into the lye/water before using?

I have been adding my clay when I add my essential oils. I add the clay to a little water that I discount from my water/NaOH solution to help it disperse quickly.

Beautiful salt bars and nice looking website Crombie! I can't wait to start playing with salt bars.
 
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All my salt bars are HP. Recommendations: Definitely use SL (2% ppo) - it helps with the fluidity and crustiness. Be prepared to work uninterruped and fast. Definitely recommend silicone mold with individual cavities (I use one from Brambleberry that has 12 rectantular 4 oz cavities). Put mold on cookie sheet. Don't overcook! Don't waste time trying to even out the cavities - get it poured in as quick as you can. Bang well on counter then cover with Glad Wrap Press N Seal or wax paper. Smooth tops of soap well.

- About an hour after you mold the soap, it will be will be almost firm. If you can gently remove it without denting in, do so. At this point, if I can handle soap without damaging it, I use a planner and smooth the tops well.

- Fine or superfine salts work best. I use Mediterreanan sea salt, black lava Hawaiian salt, or pink Himalayan salt. Photos are one of each type of salt. The black lava salt bars are Eucalyptus EO, the white salt bars are a spa FO, and the pink are a blend of pink grapefruit and Bergamot EOs. The black lava have a little activated charcoal and the pink grapefruit have a little French pink clay.

All done HP crock pot. 50% salt. 20% SF. 1 oz EO/FO ppo. 2% SL. Recipes for all were 85% coconut oil, 15% avocado oil (or a butter), and 5% castor oil. I use 1 tsp ppo DME (dry malt extract) in all my soap recipes except my 100% coconut oil 20% SF soap.

- At Christmas I make some that look exactly like chimney bricks.

------------------------------------
www.sadiesmissionsoaps.com

These are nice bars.:mrgreen:
 
All my salt bars are HP. Recommendations: Definitely use SL (2% ppo) - it helps with the fluidity and crustiness. Be prepared to work uninterruped and fast. Definitely recommend silicone mold with individual cavities (I use one from Brambleberry that has 12 rectantular 4 oz cavities). Put mold on cookie sheet. Don't overcook! Don't waste time trying to even out the cavities - get it poured in as quick as you can. Bang well on counter then cover with Glad Wrap Press N Seal or wax paper. Smooth tops of soap well.

- About an hour after you mold the soap, it will be will be almost firm. If you can gently remove it without denting in, do so. At this point, if I can handle soap without damaging it, I use a planner and smooth the tops well.

- Fine or superfine salts work best. I use Mediterreanan sea salt, black lava Hawaiian salt, or pink Himalayan salt. Photos are one of each type of salt. The black lava salt bars are Eucalyptus EO, the white salt bars are a spa FO, and the pink are a blend of pink grapefruit and Bergamot EOs. The black lava have a little activated charcoal and the pink grapefruit have a little French pink clay.

All done HP crock pot. 50% salt. 20% SF. 1 oz EO/FO ppo. 2% SL. Recipes for all were 85% coconut oil, 15% avocado oil (or a butter), and 5% castor oil. I use 1 tsp ppo DME (dry malt extract) in all my soap recipes except my 100% coconut oil 20% SF soap.

- At Christmas I make some that look exactly like chimney bricks.

------------------------------------
www.sadiesmissionsoaps.com
You have beautiful soap! Thank you for the help. I will be making my soap soon. When I do I will post pic. Thanks again.:-D
 
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