I make liquid (80% olive oil, 20% coconut oil) and solid to which I add beewax, clay, cocoa butter and other things(apart fromt he same proportion of oils) But I never put scent to the solid, because during the curing time the scent totally disperse and I use only essential oils of a good brand. Is there a Way to make it with scent that does not require to make them so expensive: I mean to retain the smell after two months of aging I have to put a lot of oil which renders the soap too expensive to sell.
scent and soaps
- Thread starter elvira
- Start date
Help Support Soapmaking Forum:
dixiedragon
Well-Known Member
I'm confused about what you are doing? Are you making soap from scratch - oils, water and lye - or are you adding cocoa butter, clay etc to a pre-made base?
I make soap from scratch. And I sell a little, not really business, more an outlet for a passion of making soap. You cannot keep making soap and just pile it at home. But people ask me for scented solid bars and I want to know what experienced people do about it.
dixiedragon
Well-Known Member
Where are you located? Correct me if I am wrong, but I have the impression from your syntax that English isn't your first language?
I ask because if you are in the US there are lots of fragrance suppliers. Canada also has some good ones, but after that they get tougher to find.
One option is to do hot process (HP). You mix the lye water with the melted oils and cook the soap on low heat. Google for pictures. Soaping101 on YouTube has a good video. When the soap is done cooking, then you add your fragrance. You can get away with using less fragrance, plus the lye is mostly used up at that point.
Other option is to rebatch. Shred your soap and moisten slightly with water, then melt the shreds in the slow cooker and add fragrance at the end.
I ask because if you are in the US there are lots of fragrance suppliers. Canada also has some good ones, but after that they get tougher to find.
One option is to do hot process (HP). You mix the lye water with the melted oils and cook the soap on low heat. Google for pictures. Soaping101 on YouTube has a good video. When the soap is done cooking, then you add your fragrance. You can get away with using less fragrance, plus the lye is mostly used up at that point.
Other option is to rebatch. Shred your soap and moisten slightly with water, then melt the shreds in the slow cooker and add fragrance at the end.
Cost is a big reason why many of us use fragrance oils rather than essential oils.
If you want a good, strong scent, there is no shortcut or miracle. You have to use enough fragrance to get the strength of scent.
You can make soap with a hot process method and add the scent after the soap is done. That may let you use less and still keep some scent in the soap.
The best way to get a strong, long-lasting scent is to only use well-reviewed FOs/EOs that have a proven track-record of sticking AND use them at the proper usage rate.
I always read the reviews on the supply sites I buy from: Wholesale Supplies Plus, Brambleberry, Nurture, etc. Make sure the reviews you are reading specify that they are used in cold-process or hot-process to get the most value out of them.
The forum also has a user-submitted list of reviews: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=47182
I always read the reviews on the supply sites I buy from: Wholesale Supplies Plus, Brambleberry, Nurture, etc. Make sure the reviews you are reading specify that they are used in cold-process or hot-process to get the most value out of them.
The forum also has a user-submitted list of reviews: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=47182
Yes, I am in Mexico,
I have tried rebatching but the resulting soap is so soft that it won't stand transportation (I live in very very hot and wet weather: no winter season here) and I mean transportation in a car (not more than that). Perhaps I have to use fragrance instead of oil? The thing is that in general I started doing soaps and many other things to avoid chemicals on me and my family... but soapmaking became a kind of passion: I keep on doing it even when I have dozens stored. But still if fragrances are not chemical-free I would not like to use them. Are there fragrances that are natural that are not essential oils?
I have tried rebatching but the resulting soap is so soft that it won't stand transportation (I live in very very hot and wet weather: no winter season here) and I mean transportation in a car (not more than that). Perhaps I have to use fragrance instead of oil? The thing is that in general I started doing soaps and many other things to avoid chemicals on me and my family... but soapmaking became a kind of passion: I keep on doing it even when I have dozens stored. But still if fragrances are not chemical-free I would not like to use them. Are there fragrances that are natural that are not essential oils?
kchaystack
Supporting Member
You can not make chemical free soap. You have to use NaOH to make lye, that is a chemical. All of your oils are just triglycerides - which are chemicals. Even the water you use is a chemical.
Anyway, what do you mean you add " beewax, clay, cocoa butter and other things"? Beeswax and cocoa butter have to be included in your soap calc when you are figuring out your lye.
What is your exact recipe in weights including water and NaOH? Include all of your additives.
Also are you doing hot process or cold process?
I'm not talking about rebatching. I'm talking about the hot process method of soap making as an alternative to the cold process method.
If your soap is properly cured, it will not be soft at reasonable temperatures. This is true for rebatched soap as well as hot or cold processed soap. Are you curing your soap long enough?
dixiedragon
Well-Known Member
I think before we can offer any more specific advise, we really need to know your recipe and your process.
Well, I did not put it correctly,
what I mean is I avoid using chemicals that are harmful. because the chemicals in soap are not harmful, lye will disappear and sponified oils fwill remain. and when I add cocoa butter or other things like beewax I do count the total of fats or consider how much of clay or beewax can be added. I do get soap. My problem is just trying to lear no make scented bars
You are right: I have followed a recipe for rebatching that says I should Add extra oil. Because before I tried rebatchng before, just with a little bit of water as you suggested, and the final soap did not look nice: it had streaks and not a nice appearance inside. PErhaps I should ask for advice on that
Thanks for this piece of advise, I am going to check the link you sent
I am running to work now. I will send my recipe later, but thanks
I may have not said it. But I am really appreciating all the answer I've been getting and they are clarifying several issues.
what I mean is I avoid using chemicals that are harmful. because the chemicals in soap are not harmful, lye will disappear and sponified oils fwill remain. and when I add cocoa butter or other things like beewax I do count the total of fats or consider how much of clay or beewax can be added. I do get soap. My problem is just trying to lear no make scented bars
You are right: I have followed a recipe for rebatching that says I should Add extra oil. Because before I tried rebatchng before, just with a little bit of water as you suggested, and the final soap did not look nice: it had streaks and not a nice appearance inside. PErhaps I should ask for advice on that
Thanks for this piece of advise, I am going to check the link you sent
I am running to work now. I will send my recipe later, but thanks
I may have not said it. But I am really appreciating all the answer I've been getting and they are clarifying several issues.
Last edited by a moderator:
dixiedragon
Well-Known Member
Yes, rebatched soap will look more "rustic" - uneven tones, etc than CP will. Same with hot process. There's always a tradeoff, lol! What part of Mexico are you in? Is it possible for you to drive into the US to pick up a fragrance order? Or is it the cost of fragrances alone that is stopping you?
littlehands
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2014
- Messages
- 69
- Reaction score
- 54
What do you mean when you say "a good brand"? I ask because a lot of people are under the assumption that essential oil sold my distributors is inherently better than bulk suppliers, which is not true. Soap will react to weird things used to cut an oil, so if it performs in soap, it's the real deal, and just as good as a "brand". Many brands also misunderstand the chemistry of soap and will advise that very small amounts be used in soap. I generally use 1.5 oz of EO per 2 lb batch of soap, which is about three 15-mil bottles. You're probably using way too little essential oil.
Well I meant that I used to buy essential oils froma x supplier and one day an new order (of several OIs) gave off a strange odor of chemicals inside. Then, after days the odour disappeared and I could only notice the lavander smell and other smells... But I knew that was not pure essential. Whereas when I buy Do Terra (I did not want to mention the name, did not know if it was valid) this never happens. And this was important for me because I started buying essential oils for health purposes long before I started soaping.
But I will try the amount you are suggesting. But I have another question. When you use this proportion it is in cold process and your soap ages for a minimum of 2 months before using?
Thanks a lot
I realy appreciate that you take your time to help me.
But I will try the amount you are suggesting. But I have another question. When you use this proportion it is in cold process and your soap ages for a minimum of 2 months before using?
Thanks a lot
I realy appreciate that you take your time to help me.
Thanks for your answer.
Now I'm learning... I did not know that it was normal that it should get that appearance (so I felt emabarrased to even make a gift of those soaps). I thought it was my clumsiness, lack of expertise and that perhaps I should practice more to get a better product.
And No, I live very far from the The USA. to buy in from USA is a hassle. There are things that do not get sent. though I might try if you send me a link or product that I could browse online.
Thanks again for your help!
Now I'm learning... I did not know that it was normal that it should get that appearance (so I felt emabarrased to even make a gift of those soaps). I thought it was my clumsiness, lack of expertise and that perhaps I should practice more to get a better product.
And No, I live very far from the The USA. to buy in from USA is a hassle. There are things that do not get sent. though I might try if you send me a link or product that I could browse online.
Thanks again for your help!
littlehands
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2014
- Messages
- 69
- Reaction score
- 54
I cure my soaps for a minimum of 4 weeks. I do only cold process. I've seen Doterra recommend "30 drops" in batches of soap. That isn't even close to enough, and you won't retain any scent in the finished batch at that rate. In addition, you have to realize that, in the chemistry of cold process soap, you aren't really retaining the therapeutic benefits of EO. Even if you fully believe that Doterra is the best, you are wasting those "better essential oils" in the soapmaking process. And, like I said, the chemistry doesn't lie. If the EOs play nice in soap, they are just as good/pure.
sweetbean
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2017
- Messages
- 43
- Reaction score
- 24
I will say, I've used DoTerra in my soaps, and I love it. Especially the lavender. I use about 5ml or so for a 1000g batch, and I can smell it! That doesn't happen with other companies, in my opinion. Yes, it's more expensive, but I really do use a lot less.
With DoTerra, I would stick with the cheaper oils to use in soap, because some oils are expensive! I can't afford all of them, but really enjoy some in my soap. Also, what I love about DoTerra is every batch comes with testing that you can read online (done in a lab--no sniff tests like most other companies).
I will say though, I do use essential oils from other companies (but use a lot more), and I do use fragrance oils. It's all a matter of personal preference, and what you're comfortable with!
With DoTerra, I would stick with the cheaper oils to use in soap, because some oils are expensive! I can't afford all of them, but really enjoy some in my soap. Also, what I love about DoTerra is every batch comes with testing that you can read online (done in a lab--no sniff tests like most other companies).
I will say though, I do use essential oils from other companies (but use a lot more), and I do use fragrance oils. It's all a matter of personal preference, and what you're comfortable with!
I use essential oils in soaping and found that if I left the soaps out in the open air for months, the scent would slowly fade away. Sometimes the scent would come back a little after a few uses in the shower, but often it would not be as strong as I wanted it to be. I usually scent soaps with essential oils at 3-5% of oil weight, depending on what I'm using (and, of course, would use less if the safe usage rate was less, like with clove or cinnamon EOs).
But then I started storing my soaps differently, and that has helped them retain scent dramatically. What I do now is cure them in open air for 4-5 weeks and then put them into plastic clamshell containers you can often find baked goods in. They look similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYH50HW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I store each batch separately, so the scents from various batches don't combine, and the soaps will stay smelling strongly far, far longer than they used to. In fact, I just went and smelled a salt bar I made 6 1/2 months ago and the smell is still there at about 85-90% strength of what it was the day I unmolded them. I also purchased some cellophane bags to put them in if I am giving them away as gifts, but would like to find a more eco-friendly option. But the cellophane is to help them continue to retain scent until the recipient uses it.
But then I started storing my soaps differently, and that has helped them retain scent dramatically. What I do now is cure them in open air for 4-5 weeks and then put them into plastic clamshell containers you can often find baked goods in. They look similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYH50HW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I store each batch separately, so the scents from various batches don't combine, and the soaps will stay smelling strongly far, far longer than they used to. In fact, I just went and smelled a salt bar I made 6 1/2 months ago and the smell is still there at about 85-90% strength of what it was the day I unmolded them. I also purchased some cellophane bags to put them in if I am giving them away as gifts, but would like to find a more eco-friendly option. But the cellophane is to help them continue to retain scent until the recipient uses it.
Last edited by a moderator:
DawninWA
Well-Known Member
Some essential oils stick better than others. Patchouli, lemongrass, peppermint and Spearmint last the longest in soap for me. I have used the Now brand and Vitacost, both work great. I usually use half an ounce per pound of oils. It's enough with those scents.
