Same recipe/soap is softer

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I’ve absolutely had some fragrances that reversed trace, and took a week or more to set up enough to cut. I know the fo is the issues, because I make at least a triple batch of batter, and fill 3+ molds, so unless all 3 molds are affected, I know the only difference is the fo.

About your white bar: On my screen that looks like stearic acid spots, not glycerin rivers.
 
Okay, I thought I read FO. Anyway, as @lenarenee says, if you CPOP one or more bars as a test to see if it will encourage gell, it might give you a different overall look as well as harden those bars sooner. It's worth a try if you are interested in CPOP. I know some folks don't like to use their ovens for CPOP especially with fragrances. The other option is a heating pad instead of an oven.
 
The other option is a heating pad instead of an oven.
I can't remember now who suggested it, but one member uses her electric roaster pan for CPOP (sample pic below) I have used my electric roaster for rendering tallow and lard, and for rebatching soaps. But for regular ole CPOP/gelling, I prefer the heating pad myself. The roaster is a large apparatus that normally sits in the bottom of my pantry, whereas the heating pad is smaller and more easily moved about. Plus, some of my molds won't fit inside of the roaster pan when the lid is on.
turkey roaster pan.jpeg
 
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@lenarenee Thanks for your insights. Steric spots didn’t even cross my mind. I’ve only been making about one batch of soap a month, so I’ve been changing multiple variables with each batch. It’s causing a little confusion and cognitive dissonance 😆 I’d prefer to be as methodical as you and @ResolvableOwl but I’m rushing the process. Thankfully I’m receiving great guidance here.

@Marsi @AliOop Am I understanding this correctly, I can heat 3 week cured soap to 170-180 and essentially get a “gel” effect after saponification has occurred? I can gel weeks old soap by CPOPing it??

@earlene You’re right, the batch I’m having issues with used FOs. I used EOs for the first split batch that was successful.
 
@Marsi @AliOop Am I understanding this correctly, I can heat 3 week cured soap to 170-180 and essentially get a “gel” effect after saponification has occurred? I can gel weeks old soap by CPOPing it??
yes

i prefer a lower temperature of around 60C (or around 140F)
a higher heat for a shorter period will also work - your maximum of 180 will need monitoring, a shorter stay in the oven and risks case-hardening the soap (making the outside dry and hard - similar to too much heat when dehydrating food)

Oh, heat for too long and your soap will turn rubbery
and it varies by recipe 🤣

but try it - watch for your recipe soap to get slightly translucent
if you can, give the soap support in case it softens enough to sag
 
I‘m in the stearic camp with @lenarenee and, like @earlene, would have guessed that the recipe had more CO than it does. The translucent appearance may be related to the high-ish linoleic, and also suggests that the soap gelled. Ungelled, uncolored lard soap poured at medium trace should look opaque and creamy. If you soap the recipe on the cool side, you can eliminate or at least significantly reduce stearic spots by making sure that your fats are melted crystal clear before you let them cool.
 
Thank you guys SO much! I can’t believe I’m saying this, but I think I’m going to make all of my new batches fragrance free until I’ve found a balanced base recipe that I love and is replicable. Do you guys know how hard it is for me to NOT put fragrance in my soap? (I’m sure some of you do 😆) Even my grocery store batch, I had to split and scent half. It feels like I’m missing an opportunity to create a new scent. However, changing multiple variables at once is confusing me and causing doubt. So it’s time to dig down deep and stay disciplined. From now on I’m Un-FragranceGuy, at least for a while. Then maybe I’ll emerge from my cocoon as Super-FragranceGuy 🤔 😆 Thanks again for all the insights, you guys are the best!
 
I'm the last to talk someone out of not using fragances (not even you!), but FWIW, making soap (chemical reaction of lye + fat) and scenting soap (adding EOs/FOs) are not as tightly bounded as it seems on a first glance.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soap-dough-and-late-superfat-colour-fo-addition.83737/
I totally respect your temporary Un-Fragrancing personality change, but maybe there is a compromise how you could be less harsh to yourself 🤗. Back then, I had used the soap dough route to try out colourations via dyes, colourants, infused & coloured oils, mainly because colours are more photogenic than odours. But it is equally possible to use soap dough to test fragrance blends for their harmony & performance.
 
I'm the last to talk someone out of not using fragances (not even you!), but FWIW, making soap (chemical reaction of lye + fat) and scenting soap (adding EOs/FOs) are not as tightly bounded as it seems on a first glance.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soap-dough-and-late-superfat-colour-fo-addition.83737/
I totally respect your temporary Un-Fragrancing personality change, but maybe there is a compromise how you could be less harsh to yourself 🤗. Back then, I had used the soap dough route to try out colourations via dyes, colourants, infused & coloured oils, mainly because colours are more photogenic than odours. But it is equally possible to use soap dough to test fragrance blends for their harmony & performance.

Very interesting post and idea 👏 Thanks! I would’ve never thought to experiment with soap dough. If the soap dough smelled similar enough to the cp bars produced with the same fragrance they could make for perfect “scent samples” for those of you who sell your soaps at markets. You could keep small Tupperware containers labeled with each corresponding bar and let people waft the soap dough to their nose. You wouldn’t have to worry about people touching their nose to the soap because the dough would be deep in the container and the fragrance would last long in a sealed container 🤔 Hmmm…
 
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