Rebatching for an acne bar

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PuddinAndPeanuts

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I'm formulating an acne bar, and was hoping you all could chime in with whether my process and logic seems sound along with any tips you may have, or awesome additives you recommend.

I'm going to CP a batch with all noncomedogenic oils with 0% superfat and as steep a water discount as I dare. Let it soponify for a week, and then rebatch. At that point I want to add in calendula infused water (effectively reversing the water discount), hand pick the oils I superfat with, and add in goodies like maybe fullers earth clay, some tea tree oil, etc.

Basically, I'm trying to protect as much from the lye monster as possible. This is for my daughter so kick butt effective ingredients are more important to me on this than the economic/commercial viability of the recipe, or the label appeal of the specific ingredients.

I'm thinking after the mess cures for a month or two, I may have a pretty great acne bar if I get my oil mix right.
 

The Efficacious Gentleman

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When an oil saponifies, it's skin benefits can change dramatically. A certain oil might block pores, but the sodium salt of that oil might be totally the opposite. Look at coconut- nice and moisturizing as an oil, drying in extremis as a soap.

Also, why not just HP instead of CP and rebatching?
 

PuddinAndPeanuts

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When an oil saponifies, it's skin benefits can change dramatically. A certain oil might block pores, but the sodium salt of that oil might be totally the opposite. Look at coconut- nice and moisturizing as an oil, drying in extremis as a soap.

Also, why not just HP instead of CP and rebatching?

Hmmm... Any thoughts on how to find the comedogenic ratings of soponified oils? That's a really excellent point.

I wanted to cold process and then rebatch so that certain ingredients are never in contact with the lye. I was under the impression that with HP everything is still exposed to lye. Is my logic there skewed?
 

BrewerGeorge

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HP allows you to control the superfat to a much larger extent. Let the full saponification process complete before adding the special superfatting oils, and they will only be exposed to the tiniest amount of remaining lye. Certainly an easier process than CP+rebatch.

I can't help with the selection of oils, though, sorry.
 

cmzaha

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Once your oils are saponified you now have a sodium salt and not oil. I would not think you will find any info on comedogenic number ratings for soap. All you have for oil is the superfat. Also if memory serves me well, which it does not always, testing for the comedogency has been discontinued. From what I remember reading, they tested on the ears of rabbits, and the results were not necessarily conclusive. Salt has one of the highest numbers yet some with severe acne do well with salt bars.
Making an acne bar is a lot of trial and error. I have one daughter in which did well with neem oil bars and one that would break out worse with them.
 
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