Rebatch and CP Soap in the same Loaf?

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Noodge

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A simple question that I can't seem to find a answer for!

If I had a layer of rebatch, and then topped it with a layer of fresh CP, would it stick?

Would I need to spray the top of the rebatch with alcohol to help it stick?

Would it be completely unfeasable for some reason?

Ta muchly!
 
A simple question that I can't seem to find a answer for!

If I had a layer of rebatch, and then topped it with a layer of fresh CP, would it stick?

Would I need to spray the top of the rebatch with alcohol to help it stick?

Would it be completely unfeasable for some reason?

Ta muchly!

The rebatch portion would use a fair amount of water and then also shrink quite a bit. Even if it did stick, I'd expect that to affect the finish soap. I have never tried it myself, since I can't stand rebatching. Maybe try it out in a small loaf and see what happens.

Have you considered a confetti soap instead?
 
The rebatch portion would use a fair amount of water and then also shrink quite a bit.

A very good point - I'll probably do the rebatch layer a week or 2 before the CP layer, that might give me a better result

For the design of my soap, confetti just wouldn't work, but I'll keep it in mind for the future, thanks!

Anyone else got any experience with this?
 
I have added rebatch cubes to a new loaf of CP and it worked out well. No problem at all.
 
I am interested in an update when you make this soap. I believe it can work!

One caveat is that I would use water rather than alcohol with CP & HP soap to get them to stick, not alcohol. Alcohol is the liquid of choice for MP layers, but water seems to be a better gluing agent with CP soap.
 
One caveat is that I would use water rather than alcohol with CP & HP soap to get them to stick, not alcohol. Alcohol is the liquid of choice for MP layers, but water seems to be a better gluing agent with CP soap.

Ooh that's good to know! How much would you recommend? I don't have another spray bottle so I'll have to wet it with my hands

How will you cut it. With that old of HP, It could pop a wire on a wire cutter.

I tried my wire cutter on a 6 month old rebatch bar I have and t cut trough fine, if I have issues I always have a bench scraper

I did the rebatch layer a few days back so I could always do the CP layer tomorrow - just worried about shrinkage issues

Does anyone know whether salt bars lose water at a faster rate than rebatch?
 
Ooh that's good to know! How much would you recommend? I don't have another spray bottle so I'll have to wet it with my hands



I tried my wire cutter on a 6 month old rebatch bar I have and t cut trough fine, if I have issues I always have a bench scraper

I did the rebatch layer a few days back so I could always do the CP layer tomorrow - just worried about shrinkage issues

Does anyone know whether salt bars lose water at a faster rate than rebatch?

I've done the 'wetting it with the hands' thing, so it works, but I wouldn't do that with fresh soap. How much? Not much. With solid soap, I rinsed it under the faucet, rubbed it a bit and made sure it wasn't dripping before putting it together with another solid soap. That was when using the soap welding method (mentioned here & here), but for soap where one is new and one is slightly older, I would only wet the older soap.

Unless, I am misunderstanding how you are doing this soap, it may be similar to something I've done a few times. I've made up a short layer of soap in a mold, let it sit a day or two (not necessarily gelling, though) in the mold and covered with plastic wrap. Then a couple of days later did the next layer. I that case, I simply sprayed lightly with water and scored the surface a bit (scratched it to created additional adherence surface. Then poured the raw soap batter on top. No problem with separation whatsoever when I've done that. Then I made sure to heat the entire soap in the oven at about 150° F to ensure gel for both/all layers.

So I would suggest scoring the surface of the re-batch layer after you get it wet, not dripping wet, just wet. Then heat the soap as in the welding method to ensure both layers are gelled. I do not know for sure, but it seems as though possibly an ungelled layer might not adhere as well. But I don't that for a fact, so I could be wrong on that count.

I doubt that salt bars lose water at a faster rate because salt attracts water. What would probably happen, though is IF one layer contains salt and the other layer doesn't, then you might end up with water migrating out of the salt-free layer into the salt layer. That could possibly create a separation problem due to the disparity in formulas.

For me, anytime I have done the above methods, the soap formulas were either the same or very similar, meaning if salt was in one layer, it was also in the other layer. But I've never done it with actual high salt content in either layer.
 
So I poured it, was super happy that it perfectly filled my mould, then I realised something disastrous!

I was keeper back some of my uncoloured batter to do a bit of a cloud-like swirl on top aaaand I forgot to put salt in that one.

So I have a layer of rebatch, salt, then normal cp

I've chucked it in the freezer, will now be happily accepting advice on how and when to cut this monster!
 
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