Question regarding temperature

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Why do I have to allow the lye and oils to cool for CP if it isn't necessary for HP?

I figure it's because you don't want the EOs/FOs to flash but that's the only reason I can think of. If that's the case, then would it be alright to add the EOs once the lye/oils mixture has cooled while mixing?

One more question. Is it okay to OP any CP recipe with any technique, i.e. swirl? I tried it with a swirl once and it turned outokay but i was wondering if maybe i just got lucky or if you guys do it, too.

Thanks!!
 
I see. I have made at least 8 batches of HP and 2 batches of CPOP. The first time, I mixed them after allowing to cool to below 120. But after 2 hours of mixing, it still would not trace. Finally, I walked away to feed the baby. I think I turned up the temp. And it went to a very thick trace which messed up my plans of swirling so I just made a calico design with the thick mixture. So, I thought that it need to be warmer. The next time I did CPOP, I cooled everything but went ahead and heated it from the start. It traced in about 30 minutes (mixing on and off) I did my swirl and popped it in the oven and it was great.

So then, that leaves me to question, if by warming my liquid as I mixed and that caused it to trace faster, was it a false trace? And if it was, what's wrong with that? My soap turned out good... Obviously i'mnew to this but I am just trying to get all my questions answered and not have to stand and mix 2 hours to get a dang trace! lol
 
Are you using a stick blender to mix your lye solution and oils? With a stick blender, it should only take a few minutes to thin trace. I always soap at lower temps. when swirling or doing any decorative work with cp soap. With hot process, I don't think really accurate temps. are necessary in mixing to trace. Many times, when I am making just plain soap. I mix the lye with distilled water and let it set until clear. While the lye water is clearing, I melt my hard oils and mix them with the liquid oils. This cools the oil part considerably. I feel the side of the oil mixing container and if it doesn't feel hot to the touch, I add the lye mixture to the oils and stick blend to trace..
 
Well, I bought a stick blender but it took so long to trace with my very first HP batch (the one that ended up seizing) that I burnt out the motor and had to throw it out. So since then I've been using an electronic hand mixer/beater, like you would use to beat cake batter or something.
 
Why do I have to allow the lye and oils to cool for CP if it isn't necessary for HP?

I figure it's because you don't want the EOs/FOs to flash but that's the only reason I can think of. If that's the case, then would it be alright to add the EOs once the lye/oils mixture has cooled while mixing?

One more question. Is it okay to OP any CP recipe with any technique, i.e. swirl? I tried it with a swirl once and it turned outokay but i was wondering if maybe i just got lucky or if you guys do it, too.

Thanks!!

they lye/oil mixture doesn't generally cool after it is mixed. as it saponifies it creates heat, that is how gel happens.

Yes, you can put any CP recipe in the oven to process it, but be careful you don't overheat it. Milk soaps, beer soaps, anything prone to overheating can volcano up and ruin the texture of your soap, that is if it doesn't make a nasty mess in your oven.

I am not sure why it is taking so long for your recipe to come to trace with a stickblender. Is it a castile? Just olive oil? A hand mixer will take forever, yes, but with a stickblender you should be able to blitz for 30 seconds, then just gently stir for 30 seconds on and off and reach trace within a few minutes. I don't think it has ever taken me as long as 5 minutes with ANY recipe, and that includes a 94% olive oil bastile soap. If you would like to post your recipe we can try to troubleshoot, but at the very least I would suggest buying another stickblender. A cheap or secondhand one works just fine.

As for why temperatures matter so much, too hot will give you soap on a stick, a volcano, scorched soap, etc. Too cool will give you false trace.
 
Thanks so much for all the input. The first video I watched on CP, the guy used a hand blender and not a stick blender. So, I always thought it would be the same and that evryone used a stick blender because it was less prone to splashing. I guess I was wrong! I'm going to go buy a stick blender tomorrow!

Thank you!!!
 
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