Question about gel

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When it comes to bubbles from SB, I recently tried a new SB when I realized my regular one was downstairs. My “regular” one is a kitchenaid, and even though I burp it I was still getting air bubbles. The one I used that gave me no air bubbles whatsoever was a cheap Proctor Silex blender (one piece, no removable shaft). My theory is that because the blade on this SB is much smaller than my kitchen aid less air is being introduced. Perhaps not as good for cooking but great for soap making. I always snubbed my nose at the cheap blenders but now see the light.
 
When it comes to bubbles from SB, I recently tried a new SB when I realized my regular one was downstairs. My “regular” one is a kitchenaid, and even though I burp it I was still getting air bubbles. The one I used that gave me no air bubbles whatsoever was a cheap Proctor Silex blender (one piece, no removable shaft). My theory is that because the blade on this SB is much smaller than my kitchen aid less air is being introduced. Perhaps not as good for cooking but great for soap making. I always snubbed my nose at the cheap blenders but now see the light.

Happy that you found YOUR answer, but I have a kitchenaid that makes bubbles and a kitchenaid that doesn't make bubbles! Figure that one out:) I haven't taken the time to analyse the situation, I just use the one that doesn't make bubbles.
 
The title of the thread is "Question about Gel." I see we have really gotten OT.
The OP bought up the subject of air bubbles and stearic spots. Straying from the original topic of the thread happens quite regularly. Many times I have strayed off from my own original topics and feel it is my thread I can stray...:p It just happens here, a question is mentioned and off it goes in another direction.
 
The OP bought up the subject of air bubbles and stearic spots. Straying from the original topic of the thread happens quite regularly. Many times I have strayed off from my own original topics and feel it is my thread I can stray...:p
True, so then I must not understand the concept of OT. I thought we were supposed to start a new thread if we wanted to change the topic from gelling to bubbles and stick blenders.
 
On the wire/knife bubble question... Could the wire issue be a matter of cutting *too* cleanly? I'm yet to slice a soap because I've used individual molds until just today, but new soaps can have a softer consistency that reminds me of some cheeses. When cutting with a wire, there's probably no "smear" factor. However, with a knife the entire blade slides over the cut surface, which could have a smoothing effect that covers tiny bubbles...?
 
"...with a knife the entire blade slides over the cut surface, which could have a smoothing effect that covers tiny bubbles......"

Yes. Good thinking -- I agree that is what happens.
 
That's true. However, if your soap is too soft even the wire can cause streaks when cutting. I generally take it out of the mold and leave it sit out for about 8 hours before cutting. I use silicone molds so they can sometimes be a bit softer (when I forget SL or Salt).
 
Just going back to gel. I've had real problems with so many of my soaps having partial gel. I know it's just a cosmetic thing but I'd prefer it if my soaps were either full gel or not gelled at all - not something in the middle (literally!) I think I've had a breakthrough this week!
What I did different was only heating the solid oils in my recipe. Before I would put all the oils together and heat them together. This time I poured the melted hard oils into the liquid oils. I thenadded the lye when it was about 110f. Then instead of using a silicone liner I used freezer paper to line my wooden box. As soon as everything was poured I put it straight into the fridge for 24 hours, then out to room temperature for another 24hours. I cut it today and so pleased there is no partial gel! yipee! The soaps aren't as neat as using a silicone liner but I can trim them off later. I think when the soap is ungelled it can have a slightly rubbery soft feel but I know after a few weeks it'll harden up. So very happy today.
 
Just going back to gel. I've had real problems with so many of my soaps having partial gel. I know it's just a cosmetic thing but I'd prefer it if my soaps were either full gel or not gelled at all - not something in the middle (literally!) I think I've had a breakthrough this week!
What I did different was only heating the solid oils in my recipe. Before I would put all the oils together and heat them together. This time I poured the melted hard oils into the liquid oils. I thenadded the lye when it was about 110f. Then instead of using a silicone liner I used freezer paper to line my wooden box. As soon as everything was poured I put it straight into the fridge for 24 hours, then out to room temperature for another 24hours. I cut it today and so pleased there is no partial gel! yipee! The soaps aren't as neat as using a silicone liner but I can trim them off later. I think when the soap is ungelled it can have a slightly rubbery soft feel but I know after a few weeks it'll harden up. So very happy today.

Good for you! I never heat my liquid oils. The other thing you could try is to soap at 90 F. 34 % lye solution, and leave on counter uncovered. For me this takes care of partial gel and ash. But it depends on your recipe.
 
Yes, I'm picking nits ... but I honestly do not know what you mean when you say "34% lye solution." I could assume it means "lye concentration" but I'd be guessing and would really have to ask to confirm.

The phrase "lye solution" covers any mixture of water + alkali (NaOH or KOH or whatever) but that's all it means to me. There are three terms that are commonly used to define lye concentration beyond any shadow of a doubt --

"The lye solution was 34% lye concentration"
"The lye solution was 34% water as % of oils"
"The lye solution was a 1.94 water:lye ratio"
 
Warning: This is OT for the original question, but addresses several questions brought up by both the OP and others. So, if you are the mods/admins, and feel it needs to be moved elsewhere, feel free to do so. I would hate to offend by my OT'ness. (And why, exactly, do we suddenly have several OT police in forums that are not mods/admins? It boggles the mind.)

On to the OT topic at hand:

In my experience, bubbles after using wire cutters are due more to the bubbles present in the mold to start with (stickblending, too heavy of a trace for a swirl, etc). After that it has to do with how hard your soap is when you cut it. I gel my soap, so it is generally hard and ready to cut at about 12 hours. Waiting longer is better at reducing the "snag and drag" effect sometimes seen on the surface of the bars. The only effect I have found directly related to the wire cutter vs the knife is that the knife smooths the soap as it travels down, and the wire cutter does not. But, wire cutters save so much time and effort, as well as giving me nice straight cuts, that I am never going back to the knife, no matter how much I have to work around one tiny downfall.
 
Yes, I'm picking nits ... but I honestly do not know what you mean when you say "34% lye solution." I could assume it means "lye concentration" but I'd be guessing and would really have to ask to confirm.

The phrase "lye solution" covers any mixture of water + alkali (NaOH or KOH or whatever) but that's all it means to me. There are three terms that are commonly used to define lye concentration beyond any shadow of a doubt --

"The lye solution was 34% lye concentration"
"The lye solution was 34% water as % of oils"
"The lye solution was a 1.94 water:lye ratio"

No, you are so right. For some odd reason I always say solution when I really mean concentration. Sorry.
 
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