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F Murtz

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I know I could work it out ,but to make it easy does anyone have the formula for castille soap using four litres of oil as the start point?
every recipe I have seen uses other amounts.
 
I know I could work it out ,but to make it easy does anyone have the formula for castille soap using four litres of oil as the start point?
every recipe I have seen uses other amounts.
Castille is generally 100% Olive Oil. So just weigh out however much oil you want to use, and calculate that to get your lye amount.

All recipes should be set in weight and not volume
 
Welcome to the forum, F Murtz.

That is a huge amount of soap for one batch of soap. Have you made a lot of soap in the past? I suspect you are not yet an experience soapmaker since this question appears in the Beginner section, and you don't seem to have experience using a lye/soap calculator. And just to clarify, you are talking about bar soap, right? Solid soap as opposed to liquid soap? Soap made with NaOH, right?

First, as jcandleattic mentioned, in soapmaking, it is best to weigh all ingredients using a scale. Not all oils weigh the same, so volume measurements of oils can create problems that weighing will avoid. So you need a good scale for soap making.

Second, you need to learn to use a lye/soap calculator for all recipes, even if someone else gives them to you or you find them online or in a book. Transcription & typographical errors can occur and a lye calculator is your best bet to ensure you have the right amounts for lye with the given amount of oils in any recipe. Here are a couple of lye/soap calculator links: SoapmakingFriend, Soapee, SoapCalc .

Third, just for fun, here is a link to convert measurements for Extra Virgin Olive Oil from one type of measurement to another type: Extra virgin olive oil amounts converter | Nutrition facts | Convert to units and culinary measures.
I used EVOO because that's what came up in my Google search, but you can change the oil as you choose. If you choose pure olive oil, the measurement in grams is different that it is for EVOO. This conversion tool only has 14 cooking oils listed. Cooking oils volume vs. weight amounts conversion and nutrition information There are others that I have found in the past with a lot more options from which to choose. But this is to show you that the same volume of one oil will not convert to the same weight as another oil. It will make a difference in your soap if you don't weigh the soap because the amount of lye needed changes with the amount of a particular oil.

Fourth, when using a lye calculator choose the specific oil carefully. Even among the olive oils, there is enough of a difference that you need a different amount of lye. ALSO different oils in the same group can have completely different characteristics and properties that they bring to the soap. An example within the olive oils: pomace olive oil versus plain olive oil not only require differing amounts of lye, they have slightly different fatty acid profiles (which give soap different qualities) and another difference: Pomace OO traces much faster than plain OO, which affects how fast your batter is ready to pour in the mold.

Fifth, as a beginner, it's best to start out with small batches of soap to learn the process and minimize the costs and chances of having large batches of soap you don't like at all or have to toss out because of some mistake or soaping disaster. A 500 gram batch or a one-pound batch of soap is a good size for beginning soap makers. That's 4 bars of soap for either batch size, which is a good practice size when you are beginning or trying out a new recipe.
 
I heartily second the good advice Earlene has written.

Also, to define a recipe, you not only have to know the kinds of fat (olive oil) and the weights of fat (however much 4 L weighs), but you also need to specify (a) the lye concentration (or the water:lye ratio) and (b) the superfat you prefer.

The superfat, weight of oil, and type of oil define the weight of the alkali (NaOH, I imagine?) The lye concentration (or the water:lye ratio) then define the amount of water required.

I see you've been a member here since 2018. I imagine you've made a few batches of soap over the past couple of years. If you haven't yet learned how to use a soap recipe calculator, it's time to step up your game.

A 100% olive oil soap is an easy recipe to create, so why not give it a try? You could have created a recipe for your olive oil in the time it took you to write your post. Easy peasy.
 
I will be using 4 litres of olive oil at a time because that is how I get it an just thought that someone may have worked it out before, but it looks as if I will have to do it my self, figure out the weight of oil per litre figure out amount of lye etc etc
 
I will be using 4 litres of olive oil at a time because that is how I get it an just thought that someone may have worked it out before, but it looks as if I will have to do it my self, figure out the weight of oil per litre figure out amount of lye etc etc
Working it out using a soap calc avoids typos. You may think people are being unhelpful but honestly you will always have to put your recipes through a soap calc yourself.
Please re read the advice above especially’s earlene’s advice.
Even though you buy 4 litres of oil I’d start with a 1 lb batch and see how it goes.

Many of us sell and few would make a 4 litre batch of Castile especially if we didn’t have a proven SF, lye concentration and additives that suited our particular skin requirements. Everyone’s skin is different so these small recipe adjustments make a difference to the perceived performance of a soap.
 
F Murtz, I had not noticed you have been a member since 2018, but when DeeAnna mentioned it, I went back and read your few posts. I see you've been making soap since about the date you joined and that first batch was Castile soap.

So how have you got by for the past 19 months not using a lye calculator? I have not really known any soapers who don't use one, so it just surprises me. Well I have read that some do the calculations by hand, like in the old days, but it is rather uncommon these days. But if that is what you are doing, I have to say I am impressed.

When you use a lye calculator you don't have to do the figuring yourself; it does it for you. And with such a simple formula as 100% olive oil and lye, it should not take you more than a minute to plug in the numbers and push the 'calculate' button, then Voilà! it is done.

At least it seems like you've probably secured a good source for affordable Olive Oil, which you had previously said was hard to find, so that is pretty nice. But just because when you buy it the container holds 4 liters, that doesn't mean you have to use it up all at once. You can just as easily make smaller batches by pouring off and measuring (using a scale, of course) how much you need for each batch when you are ready to make the next batch.

But it is up to you how large a batch you make, of course.
 
Soap making is not a hobby to me, I just wanted to make some I have had a bulk lot of turkish stuff in big blocks that looked like mums laundry soap which I still have.I have not made lots but my first foray was so easy, just under 4 litres,slightly less water than recipe and a bit of sodium lactate, went off to cut in a few days.
It is only for me and lasts forever so have not made any recently hence my silly questions, lost any records of last batch.
I have both pomace and traditional olive oil and I would doubt that the finer points of oil to caustic for each oil would make much difference to a non hobyist who just wants soap
 
So, when I started making soap for laundry, I wanted to have an easy, go to formula so that I could just grab the full jar of oil and go. At the time, that size jar was the easiest to get my hands on. I didn't need the soap to look fancy, I just needed it to do it's job. It sounds like you want a similar method, so this might help.

First, I took my new, full container of oil and weighed the contents.

Second, I plugged that into the lye calculator and adjusted for my superfat. In the notes, I put the FL oz of the jar I bought, brand, etc., so I would buy the right one next time.

Third, I saved (not just in the calc, but on my computer) and also printed it out.

When I finally used up the batch, I could just grab a new jar, pull out the recipe and whip it up.

So, maybe that's not as helpful for this batch, but it will make subsequent batches easier.
 
Just run the amount you want to make through the soap calculator. Use either olive oil or pomace. It will give you the amount of water and lye needed. It's super easy when only using olive oil. Put in the effort to at least do it right. I personally dislike 100% oo soaps but many like them. They need a good year to cure
 
The mistake I made the first time was to use a bamix and the caustic did not agree with the alloy but since then I got a very cheap new looking stainless stick mixer from a car boot sale which looks the ants pants.
 
just thought that someone may have worked it out before, but it looks as if I will have to do it my self, figure out the weight of oil per litre figure out amount of lye etc etc
Don't just work out the weight of 1 liter. Weigh the oil you are going to use each and every time you make soap. Just because the bottle of your oil says 4 liters, doesn't mean it will weigh the exact same every time you get a new bottle. There may be an over/under pour at the factory where the fill the bottles.
Everything in soapmaking is done by weight. You will need to get yourself a good scale, and use it.
 
Soap making is not a hobby to me, I just wanted to make some I have had a bulk lot of turkish stuff in big blocks that looked like mums laundry soap which I still have.I have not made lots but my first foray was so easy, just under 4 litres,slightly less water than recipe and a bit of sodium lactate, went off to cut in a few days.
It is only for me and lasts forever so have not made any recently hence my silly questions, lost any records of last batch.
I have both pomace and traditional olive oil and I would doubt that the finer points of oil to caustic for each oil would make much difference to a non hobyist who just wants soap

Okay, so I get it. You don't want to make soap all the time, just occassionally when you need more. So I am guessing you don't have a scale with which to weigh the oils and the NaOH? Or am I wrong? If you don't have even a kitchen scale for food, I'd be a bit worried about your measurements being accurate in any quantities.

If you can afford to purchase an inexpensive, but good quality kitchen scale, I do suggest going that route.
And since you have online access, there is really no reason why you can't use a lye/soap calculator. We have provided you with multiple links to them throughout this thread. Are you uncomfortable with learning to use one? If so, that's understandable, but really, I assure you, it's pretty easy and straightforward. We will be happy to help you learn to use one if you indicate which one you are going to try out and ask questions here. Several of us are able to walk you through it.

As for using regular oil and pomace olive oil, I will share my experience regarding both.

When I make Castile soap with pomace olive oil, when do a 50:50 mix and don't even have to use a stick blender at all. Pomace olive oil traces so fast, all I have to do is stir by hand. I learned that I can start by just mixing the oils and any additives with my SB if I want, but after adding the lye solution, then I just hand stir.

When I make Castile soap using only plain olive oil, I do need the Stick Blender (hand-held immersion blender) because that oil can take a very long time to come to trace if stirred only by hand.

So see, that's where the lye/soap calculator comes in handy! If I mix 50% pomace and 50% regular olive oil, the amount of NaOH needed is changed from if I only use one or the other olive oil.

See the results I get if I plug the following numbers into SoapBuilder (soapmakingfriend.com)

Recipe # 1 using only plain OO:
Choosing 35% lye concentration and 2% Super Fat and no fragrance
Total oil weight: 3712 grams
100% plain olive oil = 3712 grams
NaOH needed: 487.45 gram
water needed: 905.27 grams
Total Batch Weight: 5104.73 grams

Recipe # 2 using only pomace OO:
Choosing 35% lye concentration and 2% Super Fat and no fragrance
Total oil weight: 3712 grams
100% pomace olive oil = 3712 grams
NaOH needed: 492.64 gram
water needed: 914.9 grams
Total Batch Weight: 5119.54 grams

Recipe # 3 using half pomace OO & half regular OO:
Choosing 35% lye concentration and 2% Super Fat and no fragrance
Total oil weight: 3712 grams
50% pomace olive oil =1856 grams
50% regular olive oil = 1856 grams
NaOH needed: 475.05 grams
water needed: 910.09 grams
Total Batch Weight: 5112.14 grams

Do you see the differences in the amounts of lye and water for each of the 3 formulas? The constants in the 3 formulas are the total weight of the oils, the lye concentration, the superfat setting and the fact that there is no added fragrance. Because the oils themselves have different saponification values, the amount of lye needed changes with each formula.

I used grams as my measure because that is the most accurate. For big batches, I use a scale that measures to the nearest tenth of a gram. However, if you have or get a kitchen scale that only measures to the nearest gram, it will still be fine. It could potentially be off by a full gram one way or the other (up or down), but in large volumes such as you prefer to soap, it is not crucial to weigh to the tenth of a gram accuracy. If you were going to make very small batches, it would be more crucial.

But without a scale, you will have even more trouble getting your lye measurements to be as accurate as they should be. So I strongly encourage you to use a scale when measuring.
 
All this fuss, I would have no trouble with a lye calculator, I have good scales, I just basically wanted to know the weight of oil per litre without weighing for calculations in my head, I do not buy oil by weight and would rather not have odd amounts left over,but have resigned myself to weighing it and cleaning up receptacles up and recording results and making recipe with litre amounts ,Should have done it in the first place and not got everybody in a tither

PS. had this brilliant idea ( that many would have had before)next batch is going to be poured into a PVC pipe with a cap on the end lined with melamine drafting film, then at my leisure(may be a year, or when I find my tuits) when it has gone hard, I can chop it up with my band saw
 
,Should have done it in the first place and not got everybody in a tither
Nobody is in a tither. We just feel it is better to do things the correct and safe way, instead of just winging it and possibly getting a lye heavy soap and hurting whomever uses said soap.
 
Nobody is in a tither. We just feel it is better to do things the correct and safe way, instead of just winging it and possibly getting a lye heavy soap and hurting whomever uses said soap.
It is exactly the same way, except that the weight is of one litre or 1.5 or two litres or whatever.would end up the same ratio, if you used a lye calculator
 

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