Pumpkin Soap is Sweating Profusely

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Hey soapers. I just made some pumpkin soap that smells divine but its super watery even with a water discount. Now its starting to sweat water and it honestly smells a lot like FO too so I'm hoping its not sweating the FO for some reason. This is my first time making this and my first time seeing this happen. I've attached a pic of the soap when I first put it in the mold. And a pic of it about 30 minutes later. What do I do???

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40.5 oz total oil weight, 5.8 oz lye 9.8 oz water 18.5 oz olive oil 12 oz CO, 9 oz PKO 1 oz Shea. 3 oz of Fragrance Oil, 2.5 teaspoon of sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt added to the water before lye. I added 4 oz of pumpkin in at light trace. And poured.
 

Obsidian

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How thick if that layer of oil? It looks deep, I would rebatch before it overheats anymore. Using pumpkin and spicey FO's, can cause overheating which will cause a watery batter and separation like you are seeing.
 

shunt2011

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I'm guessing it overheated with the sugar and pumpkin as well as the FO you used. I too would rebatch it in a crockpot. Also, your recipe is extremely cleansing. CO and PKO (almost 52%) are interchangeable and you've got more cleansing oils than olive. I would drop the combination of the two to no more than 25% of your recipe. I would also be measuring in grams not ounces as it's much more accurate.
 

Alim2563

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My pumpkin soap also did this .

My soap was fine till I added the F.O then it started to act really crazy, started to separate and sweat really bad so I let it calm down then re-batch the soap. It's okay now but I won't be making pumpkin soap for awhile.:crazy:
 
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I use co and pko together all the time, most people I know prefer this recipe over others. And ugh! I hate to rebatch I was doing a tiger stripe.
 
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I use co and pko together all the time, most people I know prefer this recipe over others. And ugh! I hate to rebatch I was doing a tiger stripe.


Rebatching a pretty soap is going to be painful - so always do pretty things on soaps that you know very well. If you do it on a soap with an unknown element, you could end up here again, rebatching a pretty soap.

As for the cleansing, 52% is high by many peoples standards. What lye discount do you have? What are the recipes that are not as good as this one?
 
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My other recipes have around 20% co and not palm kernel and I increase the olive. And various others. I was quite surprised that they preferred this recipe but it may be because of where they work.
 
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Palm kernel my apologies. I know the difference. I recently switched to palm oil and got a different reception than the recipe using palm kernel. I was shocked to say the least.
 
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So now I've been using palm kernel oil with coconut oil (the initial recipe I posted) I know typically the " go to bar" has olive, coconut, palm and some other element but that bar did not get the same reception.
 

shunt2011

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I use coconut, palm, and Pko. As well as other oils. What lye discount are you using. I don't exceed 25% combined Co and Pko. The only exception is my salt bars and I do make a 100% co bar with a 20% superfat.
 
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Palm kernel my apologies. I know the difference............

You may well know the difference, but when you say the wrong one it is makes sense to clear up, or we are never sure what we are talking about.

As to the soap, different people have different skin types and tastes and so on. Some people can't take more than 15% CO, other people can go for much higher amounts.
 
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Well, I did not rebatch and here is how they turned out. Very good. Does anyone know if adding pumpkin traditionally creates a more "conditioning" bar automatically?

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Alim2563

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Pumpkin soap redo

Well, I did not rebatch and here is how they turned out. Very good. Does anyone know if adding pumpkin traditionally creates a more "conditioning" bar automatically?
I also had trouble. so I re-batch that soap, but then I tried again and just toned down the fragrance in it. Will try to post some pictures of them " re-batch and an redo in cold process, glad you were able to save it.
 

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