Thank you, it seems that reading and reading and more reading will get you so much deeper into soap making, this is awesome, thank you.HI there and welcome! You'll enjoy the process of learning about the ingredients. This is a nice article that discusses the properties of oils and butters and gives recommendations for baseline usage rates:
Beginner's Guide to Common Soap Making Oils | BrambleBerry
One of the most important aspects of any recipe is the oils and butters you choose. Learn more about the ones we carry here.www.brambleberry.com
Pretty New
- Thread starter ThatOneGuy
- Start date
Help Support Soapmaking Forum:
Ok, so today I decided to make some more soap but I ran into an issue. It won’t reach trace. That’s about 15 minutes of mixing. I had substituted PKO for coconut oil and added a little Castor. Should I throw away and redo?
Attachments
Y’all know what I did….I was so excited I didn’t notice and used potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide.
Great, now you have a liquid soap paste! As long as you don't have a very high superfat, you should be able to dilute it and use it.Y’all know what I did….I was so excited I didn’t notice and used potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide.
I did get rid of it, the potassium and water ratio were not there and I didn’t want to mix a little extra to see if it worked. I should off had because when I poured it down the sink it filled the one side with lots of bubbles all the way to the top… next time next time.
Oh no, that's a bummer! You don't need any special liquid ratio to make your liquid soap. In fact, there are makers who deliberately don't make a paste; instead, they make a very fluid liquid soap from the start.
Next time, talk to us first before you throw anything out
Yes, 🫡 understood! Thank you for your help. Did not know that about the liquid soap either. Wow, this place is amazing!Oh no, that's a bummer! You don't need any special liquid ratio to make your liquid soap. In fact, there are makers who deliberately don't make a paste; instead, they make a very fluid liquid soap from the start.
Next time, talk to us first before you throw anything out
Is it necessary to insulate the individual soap mold with Zany’s Palm Olive Soap? Or any soap? I’ve read both fir yes and no.
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
Generally speaking, it's best to cover the batch and insulate to insure full gel.
The exception to that are batches that are known to be "heaters" like goat milk soaps, additives like sugar, and fragrances like clove/cinnamon that tend to heat up the batch and cause volcanoes.
ETA: @DeeAnna 's Soapy Stuff is an amazing source for getting a basic understanding of all things soapy. When you have time, browse around and read whatever interests you.
Thank you
Ok, I made this last night around 9pm. I left it at a light trace before pouring into mold. It is 1630 central time and soap feels like as if it was clay and not gardening. What could I have done wrong? I thought I followed instructions but I must of gone sideways somewhere. I covered it with a box to try to maintain heat. My house at night when we sleep is set to 68 degrees.
Attachments
You used waaaay too much water, which will make the soap take a very long time to firm up. Are you using the "water as percent of oils" setting to calculate the lye and water? If so, change it to "lye concentration" and set it to 33% for starters.
Meanwhile, you can do one of the following
1. Leave this batch alone for a week until it firms up enough to unmold it.
2. Put it in the freezer for an hour, then let it sit on the counter for a few minutes, and then pop out the soap. It will become soft again as it defrosts, so while it is still frozen, put it in your curing location and don't touch it for a week.
3. Set the mold on a heating pad on medium heat for about two hours. Let it cool down completely. It will probably be firm enough to unmold within a day after that.
Meanwhile, you can do one of the following
1. Leave this batch alone for a week until it firms up enough to unmold it.
2. Put it in the freezer for an hour, then let it sit on the counter for a few minutes, and then pop out the soap. It will become soft again as it defrosts, so while it is still frozen, put it in your curing location and don't touch it for a week.
3. Set the mold on a heating pad on medium heat for about two hours. Let it cool down completely. It will probably be firm enough to unmold within a day after that.
Ok, I did the Zany’s Palm Olive Oil soap but changed the batch to 16oz. When I put everything down on the soapcalc I put everything down as the recipe then changed it to 16oz, I never thought of looking back into the water/NaOH. That must of been where I made the mistake of too much water. I don’t have a heating pad yet but I will be getting one soon. For the meantime I will be choosing option #1. Thank you.
This it’s the second one I did without a mixture of KOH and NaOH. I used .06 Oz of Methylcellulose HV on an 8oz squirt bottle: 6oz water 1.5oz soap .06oz Methylcellulose. It kept getting thicker and thicker as time went on and as you can see it’s a big blob of soap that comes out as if it was lotion. It still works pretty good though. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Attachments
I'm unsure why you are storing these in plastic bags? They will always remain sticky unless you let them cure in the open air. Unless it's liquid soap? In which case ignore that : )
Yes, they are liquid soap
You don’t use NaOH in liquid soap.Yes, they are liquid soap
Similar threads
