preparing beeswax for soap?

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beckylinley

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Hi!

My mom just gave me some beeswax and honey from her hive of bees. I'd like to try using it for a batch of CP soap.

Does anyone know what I need to do to prepare the wax for soapmaking?

Any recipe ideas are also appreciated!

Thank you for any advice,

Becky

beeswax.jpg
 
Hi Becky! Beeswax in soap, everyone has their various opinions on it because it can be a PITA! I have two batches successfully made with beeswax. I just melted it with my hard oils and kept an eye on it to make sure it didn't solidify. I used a small amount which was 2% of my 54oz recipe so there was way more of the other oils to keep it fluid. I would recommend using just a basic recipe and starting with 2% beeswax (run it all through the soap calc) as jumping off point and then going from there if you think you need to increase or decrease the amount. Good luck!
 
Bees wax fresh from the hive has a lot of honey and bees parts in it. You will need double boiler and fine strainer. Slowly melt your mix in double boiler, strain it in a jar and cool down. Bees wax will separate and solidify on top of honey.
Fresh bees wax smell wonderful . I wish we can have our bees all year around :) ImageUploadedBySoap Making1394682165.875721.jpgImageUploadedBySoap Making1394682209.487768.jpg
 
I love beeswax in soap! I know a lot of people don't, but I have never had a problem with it yet, and my soaps lather great. I use it at 1 or 2% myself, and just melt it with my oils. I'm not so lucky to have fresh beeswax to prepare! Would love to hear how that goes for you. I've used raw honey at about 1 tbsp per pound of oils along with the beeswax and then added cinnamon leaf essential oil- it was delightful! You just need to watch the overheating with honey. Also, maybe you know this already, but warm your honey first before adding it to soap so that it mixes well. Good luck! Be sure to post pictures!
Cheers!
Anna Marie
 
If you decide not to use it in soap, bees wax can also be used in lip balms, solid lotions and other types of balms.

Honey in soap can be very nice, increasing lather and has skin benefits (humectant). Lye dissolving in water gives out a lot of heat which can burn the honey. Adding the honey at trace can also give troubles, like honey pockets and soap overheating after the pour.

I get around this by dissolving honey into water, freezing it and adding the lye to the cubed frozen water-honey. Other soapers might chime in with their honey 'tricks'.
 
That's a new one for me Green soap! I know honey presents challenges for soapers at times. I melt mine to a liquid and add at trace being sure to mix well to avoid the blobs and pockets. I will have to try your method sometime :)
Cheers!
Anna Marie
 
As far as adding honey goes, how I've added it was with milk powder. I took about an ounce of water and heated it up in the microwave with the honey, mixed in the milk powder, and blended those into the oils with the SB just before adding in the lye water.
 
Hi!

My mom just gave me some beeswax and honey from her hive of bees. I'd like to try using it for a batch of CP soap.

Does anyone know what I need to do to prepare the wax for soapmaking?

Any recipe ideas are also appreciated!

Thank you for any advice,

Becky

Judging from the picture, the honey is ready to be added to your soap, but the beeswax will need to be rendered. The method I use to render beeswax straight from the hive (once the honey has been extracted) is to fill a pot about half way with water, and fill the rest with beeswax, leaving enough room at the top to ensure that the mixture doesn't boil over. I heat the pot over an element (stove or BBQ) on low heat until the wax is completely melted, stirring as it melts, then pour the mixture into disposable containers like empty, clean yogurt containers. Note that the pot you use, anything you use to stir the wax mixture, and the containers you pour the wax into will be ruined for any other purpose, as it's next to impossible to remove all traces of wax from them. Once the wax has cooled and hardened, the water will have separated and can be poured off - it will likely be a dark brown from honey residue and any contaminants. The bottom layer of wax will contain a crumbly mixture of pollen, bee parts / cocoons, etc. that can be scraped off with a knife. At this point, you can use the remaining wax, or render the wax further. I usually repeat the whole process 2 - 3 times, pouring the mixture through cheesecloth on the final rendering, to make sure that I end up with very clean beeswax. There will still be the odd bit of pollen in the wax (which I don't mind) unless it's very finely filtered.

As for recipes, you can just add beeswax or honey to your regular recipe. The beeswax will accelerate trace, so I leave it out if I need more time for swirls or anything involving several colours. I add beeswax at 1% of the total oils, and 1 tsp. honey per pound of oil. You can go a bit higher with both, but at these usage rates I don't have problems with the beeswax inhibiting lather or the honey causing overhearing.

I melt the beeswax with my other hard oils and then combine them with the liquid oils in my recipe, which brings down the high temperature needed to melt the beeswax. (If you pour melted beeswax into your soap batter on its own, it often hardens up and leaves you with hard bits of wax in your soap). I combine honey with some warmed oil or liquid from my recipe, making sure that the honey is fully incorporated, and add it in at trace.

Beeswax is notoriously tricky to work with in soap, so if you find that it's more trouble than it's worth, you can always use the beeswax in candles, salves or lip balm! :)
 
Personally, i have never had a problem with beeswax. However, i've never used beeswax straight out of the hive but already packaged and cleaned by a local bee keeper. So i would agree that you have to strain it first to draw out any parts of the comb, but for me melting the beeswax completely is essential.:) good luck!
 

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