Powdered Pigments in Candles

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bathgeek

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Hi folks, I branched into candles (yup, another newbie). I do wicked and wickless candles for the kinky crowd (wickless candles go in water baths or are melted with heat guns). (It's a TON of fun. Think pedicures with paraffin wax, only this is all over your whole body... ^_^) I have a soy blend and a coconut-paraffin blend.

Anyway. I'm actually looking for help with UV pigments. Wax play in blacklight is a pretty cool thing and looks WAY awesome. I managed to get flourescent dye blocks from Candlechem and they look fantastic (a little difficult to get melted in my really-low-temp waxes, so I may have to do the melt-separately-and-stir-melted-blocks-in thing.) The problem is, Candlechem is out of flourescent green and flourescent yellow, and those two are the BIG ones people always ask for besides orange.

I can't find flourescent/UV-reactive candle dye anywhere else, so I was thinking of mixing UV-reactive pigment powder in stearic acid, then mixing that into my candles. I'm not looking for anything super decorative, just a solid color and no streaking/clumping in the wax when it is burned or melted. (Yes, there will be some candles with wicks.) Does anyone have any experience with using powder pigments in their candles, and do you have any tips/suggestions/advice?
 

SunRiseArts

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You may find them at justpigments.com

Not sure if it will work with what you are talking about, but my thought is that if you have poly80, add a little but, and it might work. I know it works with essential oils in candles.

Make a little one, and experiment. :)

Let me know of your results!
 

bathgeek

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Thanks! I found the pigments, but they're actually more expensive from justpigments than from the supplier I just sourced. (Half the cost, all told, and I've tested these so I know they work fantastic.) They look amazing. <3
 

lyschelw

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Howdy, pigments won't work in candles as they clog wicks. But if it is wickless and the pigments are body safe you could give it a try. HTH :)
 

bathgeek

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This is what they look like:


And under UV (the whole point of making them):


On a person (not sure if this is work-safe) so I'm putting it behind a link: LINK
 

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