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ramya

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Hi everyone, I am new to Cp soap. I have few questions before starting my first soap,
1) I am planning to make a 1lb batch soap , Is the weight 1 lb , only the base oils ? or the total soap batter?
2) I have 10 inch silicone loaf mold 50oz capacity. I want to make 1lb batch with intricate designs, how can i use my 10" mold to use half of it( remaining half empty)

Are these gloves safe for making CP soap?
WhatsApp Image 2021-02-27 at 1.44.07 PM (1).jpeg
 
One pound means 16 ounces of oil. Be sure to use a soap calculator and if you have a pringles can and some freezer paper to line it, that will make a good mold. You can also use a milk container. I would try to find something closer you your batter weight to start. It will be easier than making a mold smaller.
Don’t try intricate designs on your first soap. Make sure you know how to handle your recipe and FO before getting fancy. Try a two color in the pot swirl. It will be pretty and your not going to be disappointed if it doesn’t look like something from YouTube.

The gloves will work. I prefer nitrile but that is me
 
One pound means 16 ounces of oil. Be sure to use a soap calculator and if you have a pringles can and some freezer paper to line it, that will make a good mold. You can also use a milk container. I would try to find something closer you your batter weight to start. It will be easier than making a mold smaller.
Don’t try intricate designs on your first soap. Make sure you know how to handle your recipe and FO before getting fancy. Try a two color in the pot swirl. It will be pretty and your not going to be disappointed if it doesn’t look like something from YouTube.
Thank you so much for the reply ,can I use parchment paper instead of freezing paper?

If you have a rectangle Tupperware/Rubbbermaid-type container, you could use that for a mold.
Thats awesome, but I dont have these containers, I have square glass containers (600ml) from ikea, I will line up with parchment paper and i use it. Thank you.
 
Unless the glass is heat proof, I would not use it. Glass holds heat and may cause your soap to over heat. If you have a Velveeta box, line it and use it as a mold. Any small, rectangular box would work.
 
I want to make 1lb batch with intricate designs,

No...you don't. I mean, you may want to, but it is best not to...not for your first soap because it is very doubtful it will come out well and then you will be disappointed and depressed and blame the soap instead of your inexperience.

Your first soap should be something simple. If you absolutely HAVE to have color or scent...I recommend purchasing a 'trial' size FO and "Sample" Micas from a reputable soap supplier like BrambleBerry, Nuture Soap, Rustic Essentials, Elements Bath & Body, Wholesale Supplies Plus. Do NOT go to a 'craft' store like Hobby Lobby, Michael's, JoAnne's, AC Moore, etc.

What you do is go to your local "dollar" store and get yourself a couple of small plastic containers that will hold 3 cups of liquid...something square or rectangle. I made my very first soap in a carton that had juice (washed and dried). Take your recipe, put in a Soap Calculator with a 33% Lye Concentration and print it out.

Make sure you are wearing gloves (those will do) and eye protection (regular glasses won't do) BEFORE you open your Lye (Sodium Hydroxide). Weigh your Lye and Distilled Water carefully on a digital scale into separate containers and then pour your Lye slowly INTO the water (NEVER EVER POUR WATER INTO LYE)...do it in the sink...and stir until the water is clear. Let the Lye Solution cool down...you can use it when you can put you palm against the side of the container and leave it there.

Measure out all the rest of your ingredients...make sure you melt you hard oils first before adding your soft oils. Stir them together and then add your Lye Solution and mix to a crepe or thin pancake batter consistency. Pour into mold. Cover with a light towel and stick it on top of your refrigerator and leave for 24 hours. You'll know its ready when you press lightly with your finger and it feels firm...like a medium cheddar cheese.

Unmold, cut into four 'bars' and put them on a plastic cutting board. Cover them again with a light towel and put back on the frig. At least once a once a week for the next six weeks, flip the soap over.

For lining, does the parchment paper work?

No, your soap will stick to it. What you want is "freezer" or "butcher's" which has a non-stick coating...more so than Wax Paper.
 
No...you don't. I mean, you may want to, but it is best not to...not for your first soap because it is very doubtful it will come out well and then you will be disappointed and depressed and blame the soap instead of your inexperience.

Your first soap should be something simple. If you absolutely HAVE to have color or scent...I recommend purchasing a 'trial' size FO and "Sample" Micas from a reputable soap supplier like BrambleBerry, Nuture Soap, Rustic Essentials, Elements Bath & Body, Wholesale Supplies Plus. Do NOT go to a 'craft' store like Hobby Lobby, Michael's, JoAnne's, AC Moore, etc.

What you do is go to your local "dollar" store and get yourself a couple of small plastic containers that will hold 3 cups of liquid...something square or rectangle. I made my very first soap in a carton that had juice (washed and dried). Take your recipe, put in a Soap Calculator with a 33% Lye Concentration and print it out.

Make sure you are wearing gloves (those will do) and eye protection (regular glasses won't do) BEFORE you open your Lye (Sodium Hydroxide). Weigh your Lye and Distilled Water carefully on a digital scale into separate containers and then pour your Lye slowly INTO the water (NEVER EVER POUR WATER INTO LYE)...do it in the sink...and stir until the water is clear. Let the Lye Solution cool down...you can use it when you can put you palm against the side of the container and leave it there.

Measure out all the rest of your ingredients...make sure you melt you hard oils first before adding your soft oils. Stir them together and then add your Lye Solution and mix to a crepe or thin pancake batter consistency. Pour into mold. Cover with a light towel and stick it on top of your refrigerator and leave for 24 hours. You'll know its ready when you press lightly with your finger and it feels firm...like a medium cheddar cheese.

Unmold, cut into four 'bars' and put them on a plastic cutting board. Cover them again with a light towel and put back on the frig. At least once a once a week for the next six weeks, flip the soap over.



No, your soap will stick to it. What you want is "freezer" or "butcher's" which has a non-stick coating...more so than Wax Paper.
Thanks a lot @TheGecko
 
Done with my first soap :) Thank u all for the support :thumbs:
When I cut the soap after 48 hrs , I found some white spots inside.... wondering what they might be??
 

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Unmixed oils. If you used hard oils and they weren’t heated until they were clear this can happen. They won’t effect the soap.
I used only 30% of hard oil in my recipe and i am sure that the oils are melted and clear before soaping
My recipe is coconut oil 30%
olive oil 70%
What else the spots might be?:rolleyes:
 
What a pretty color though! Nicely done first soap!!!
I agree with penelope that it could look like maybe some oils weren't totally melted/clear. hmmmmm Do you know what your lye solution temp was when it was added?

I've also seen "glycerin rivers" look like this. Common causes in my experience: Heat - What did you end up using for your mold? Water - How much water did you use? Other additives - Did you use any additives besides your oils, water and lye?
 
What a pretty color though! Nicely done first soap!!!
I agree with penelope that it could look like maybe some oils weren't totally melted/clear. hmmmmm Do you know what your lye solution temp was when it was added?

I've also seen "glycerin rivers" look like this. Common causes in my experience: Heat - What did you end up using for your mold? Water - How much water did you use? Other additives - Did you use any additives besides your oils, water and lye?
Hi kim , thanks for writing down...lye temp was around 115f ,oils temp at 123f and I used a square plastic container from ikea.
coconut oil - 3.6oz
olive oil- 8.4oz
lye- 1.73oz (4% superfat)
water- 4.2oz (water as % of oils 35%)
No fragrance or essential oils . No colors . No additives
 

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I'll wait for someone else to chime in too, but my vote is "glycerin rivers" due to a higher water amount. Nothing wrong or unsafe about them. Just an aesthetic thing. Some folks try to get them on purpose!

I see you found freezer paper! :)
 
I dentifying problems can be very difficult.
It could be a type of glycering river. The lye concentration was 28% (water as a % of oils 35%). You can avoid those by soaping with a lye concentration of 32%.
Not sure though. Your temps were pretty hot. I usually soap around 110*F for both lye and oils. Sometimes if you pour a bit hotter parts of the batter can cool down a bit quicker than others leaving spots and swirls.

Try doing one or both with your next soap and see if it clears.
 

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