New to hot process

[Yooper]

I've been CP soaping for years. I've been very happy with the results.

I've only done hot process twice- once for liquid soap, and once for a rebatch. (Only one rebatch due to overheated soap- ever!)

Anyway, I have some recipes I love but I understand that if I HP the same recipes, I can add my EOs at the end, and hopefully preserve some of the fragrance. (I do not use FOs). I could also mix in additives, I guess- but I don't really use any to speak of. I also understand that I can reserve some (or all) of the superfat for the end as well.

Those sound like advantages to me so I'm thinking that this is worth a try!

I've read and watched some videos, but aside from zap testing, how do you know when the soap may be done? Does it always go through all the stages (mashed potatoes, vaseline, etc)?

I like making GM soap. If I save that to the end, I assume I'd discount the water but I'm unsure how to do that.

Any "hot process for dummies" type of help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Hazel]

I'm not an expert at HP but I thought I'd mention what I've experienced. I don't see all the stages mentioned when I do HP but this could be because I mainly only use HP for batches with an alcohol liquid. I can generally tell the batch is done by the translucent look to the soap and it's thickened. I still zap test to make sure. I put a little of the soap on a paper towel or saucer, let it cool and then test. I don't know if anyone else does it this way but I add the EOs to approximately one ounce of superfat oil since it's then easier to stir it thoroughly through the batch. (My batches are normally only 48 oz.)

I can't help you with GM because I've only used buttermilk powder in HP. I blend it with some water and add it in the beginning. Hopefully, someone will be able to help you with it.

I don't know if you've seen these tutorials.

Gracefruit's CPHP Tutorial
HP on the stove - I was amused by this lady’s writing style and she has lots of pictures showing the steps the soap goes through while it's cooking. However, I'd recommend using a double boiler if you're only doing a small batch.

 

[kazmi]

I've only done 2 hp batches before and I didn't see all of the stages in both of mine. I recommend to start zap testing as soon as you have a good layer of gelled soap on top (shown in the first link Hazel gave you). I kept waiting for mine to do the 'roll over' thing and it never did so mine was probably way overcooked. Still nice soap but it was hard to try to smooth the soap out once in the mold so it looked very 'rustic'. As far as water discounting for gm I think it would depend on how much you planned to use.

 

[Yooper]

Thank you for the tips! I had not seen those links, and that will help alot.

I don't ever sell soap- I give lots of it away, though. So I don't care so much about the "rustic" appearance. Well, I don't think I do, but I'll have to decide when I see it.

My house is cold in the winter, and I think HP might be one way to avoid partial gel as well as add the EOs so they stick and maybe save a bit of time.

Again, thanks for the help!

 

[Hazel]

You're welcome! Please let us know how it turns out. :grin:

 

[honor435]

i use a crock pot for both my hp and cp, I like both methods.

Ok, so for hp, add all your melted oils( doesn't matter what temps) to your pot, then add your lye/water( also doesn't matter what temp), then stick blend til trace or kind of thick, turn on high, cover.( DO NOT STIR) Then for my crock its usually 45-1 hr, I don't watch any of it any more, but this is how it looks for me, you will see it start to gel on outer edges, then eventually the whole pot will be gel looking, that's usually when its done. Then you stir it well, it will get lighter and fluffy. Tongue test, if zap, put the cover back on for 10 minutes, test again. When there is no zap its done, you add your fo and color if desired, you need 1/2 the amt of fo with this process, I can scent a 31oz batch with 3-5ml of lemongrass, with cp I would use twice that. Then you plop it in your mold, then make sure to bang it on hard surface to get any air pockets out, then smooth out the top, I use shelf liner for my wood molds, so I use a piece of that to smooth out the top. The next am it is ready for cutting, then set aside for a couple of weeks to harden!
Hope that made sense! I know some people stir a various points, I dont theres no need.

 

[Hazel]

Hi honor435!

I'm thrilled to see you've posted. I haven't seen you on the forum for quite awhile and have wondered where you were.

@ Yooper -

This is the lady who taught me HP and formulated a recipe to me to get me started. Follow her advice and you'll be fine.

 

[AlicesWonderhands]

hi guys. im sorry to hi jack here, but this is the closest place i could find to getting some help with my first batch of HP soap. I dont want to do CP as I have a little one and no storage room.
Im having difficulties with the soap calculator and would like to speak to a responding human rather than google. Can you send a girl in the right direction?
( My delima? Made one batch of soap that wouldnt trace. Now not feeling safe about the calculator. All the advice i get about the oils i have and soap making say great! do it! and then the INS is like 120, and Im scared the soap wont come out.)
TIA
ALice

 

[batty]

Hi AliceWonderhands. I haven't posted much, but I come here whenever I am soaping hard AND have extra free time (those 2 things rarely coincide). I actually started out HP, and would say that I probably do about 60/40 HP/CP now. I am not sure exactly what your questions about the soap calc is..... Can you give more details about the soap that wouldn't trace. The only batch I remember having a hard time getting it to trace was a 100%OO castile, and I think it was really cool. If you are worried about the INS value being 120, maybe you could tweak your recipe? Again, if you gave more specifics I am sure you would get some great answers.
Another thing you can try, if you are working on your first batch of HP is go with a recipe that is posted in a tutorial as your starting point and then adjust it a bit if you want.

 

[AlicesWonderhands]

Hi AliceWonderhands. I haven't posted much, but I come here whenever I am soaping hard AND have extra free time (those 2 things rarely coincide). I actually started out HP, and would say that I probably do about 60/40 HP/CP now. I am not sure exactly what your questions about the soap calc is..... Can you give more details about the soap that wouldn't trace. The only batch I remember having a hard time getting it to trace was a 100%OO castile, and I think it was really cool. If you are worried about the INS value being 120, maybe you could tweak your recipe? Again, if you gave more specifics I am sure you would get some great answers.
Another thing you can try, if you are working on your first batch of HP is go with a recipe that is posted in a tutorial as your starting point and then adjust it a bit if you want.

I do look fwd to some creamy, yummy CP soaps in the future. they look so divine!

I used olive, grape, and coconut oil. I also used coffee for the water.
The lye was little more than a few granules and the coffee/lye solution never got hot.
stick blended for nearly and hr. molded and let set for 24 hrs, separated yuckyness on top, toddler flying around. pan of lye solution ( not soap yet) on the dryer. I threw it out. Frustrated to tears.
p.s. water looked to be spring water. so i used the filtered water from the fridge after no trace after a long while. used a very small amount w small amount of lye and WHAMO! i had cloud and temp. but not hot. So we BOUGHT some distilled water for this batch.

So now I have crisco, olive and castor oils and would like to make a nice base to split, one with orange patchouli oil and another with oat milk and ground lavendar flowers. (maybe put oat milk throughout? e.o through out? maybe ground oats or coffee?) i want to stay simple and yet play with layering and the artistic side.

Thank you so much! I look fwd to offering my friends and family quality soaps! My sons especially. I have two teens and a 3 yr old. All w sensitive celtic skin like their momma.
Thank you!

 

[judymoody]

Hi Alice, if you could provide your complete recipe including weights for oils, lye, and water (or whatever liquid you use), then we could probably trouble shoot more accurately for you.

 

[seven]

also, be prepared for separation when doing milk soap the hp way. no matter what milk, this always happens to me. nothing major tho, just give it your mighty stir or pull out the sb again to bring it together again. separation often happens during/after cook, when the batter is exposed to heat.

hp soap still needs a good cure, just like cp. why? coz with hp you use more water (usually 2.8-3:1 water:lye), and this excess water needs to evaporate so the soap is nice and hard.

 

[AlicesWonderhands]

well, my specific question here, is in regards to a new recipe I am attempting to create. The soap calc has me at over 80 Iodine no matter how I tweak it. Crisco, Olive and Castor oils. Seems I just cant get it hard enough on the calc for industry recommendations. Iodine of like 120. No matter how i tweak the calculator. I have a TINY bit of coconut oil left ive infused with lavender buds (squeezed n strained) but its only like 2 ounces and id like to save it for the babies hair. I can use it if i HAVE to, but really, i used my coconut oil budget in the botched batch.
I would love to use some oat milk, E.Os, ground lavender buds (lavender powder i make from fresh buds. OMG at the scent and no mouse poop soap! ;-) ) and maybe oatmeal bits and/or coffee grounds as an exfoliate. Will these additives help/hinder the softness. And really, how important is that 70/160 mark with Idodine and INS?

 

[AlicesWonderhands]

also, be prepared for separation when doing milk soap the hp way. no matter what milk, this always happens to me. nothing major tho, just give it your mighty stir or pull out the sb again to bring it together again. separation often happens during/after cook, when the batter is exposed to heat.

hp soap still needs a good cure, just like cp. why? coz with hp you use more water (usually 2.8-3:1 water:lye), and this excess water needs to evaporate so the soap is nice and hard.

How long would you recommend? I'm all down for curing as long as it isnt caustic. <3

also, what if I added the oat milk when adding the E/Os? Would this eliminate the lye/heat from affecting the milk too much?
p.s.
I cant tell you guys how tickled I am to be having intelligent soaping conversations, rather than boring my poor "deer in the head lights" family. "soap on a stick...WHAT?" lol! "No, the SoapanifCATION factor. You know, the process that happens when lye meet fat?... no? ok, let's play Jinga..." :crazy:

 

[seven]

well, essentially after it's finished cooking, hp soaps are ready to use (not caustic). but for the reason i mentioned before, hmmm.... 1-2 weeks at least. my hp (since i use so much water) ended curing for more than 4 weeks, longer than cp. you can tell if it aint ready, the soap is still a bit play doughy...

adding the milk after the cook, i personally havent done this method. perhaps others who have done so will chime in.

dont worry too much about separation, it is easily tackled with the sb

oh, and use 1-2% sodium lactate for hp. thinner batter, more workable consistency. it is a godsend me thinks, since i aint a fan of the rustic/hp look.

 

[PirateGirl686]

Hi! I'm planning on making some hp soap this weekend and I've noticed people talking about adding goats milk after the cook...what about goats milk powder? Can that be added after the cook too? Does it cause the "milk" to spoil or smell bad? How would I know if separation had occurred (haven't had that happen yet)? Thanks everyone!

 

[fuzz-juzz]

I am fairly new to HP making but I have tried both rebatching and HP from scratch.
For me, they go through different stages. Rebatch goes straight to vaselin/gel/see through phase, while traced soap made from scratch will go through all those phases found in HP tutorials.
I don't usually make HP but made HP charcoal bars for husband the other day. He ran out and it was emergency. Anyaway, I used my usual recipe with half water half coconut milk, traced fine, started heating up and separated to oil and some curdy mass. I stirred few times, and it took good 45min to come together again. I followed HP tutorial I Googled and it warned about that separation phase. I was still scared I failed though.
Use stick blender if you feel it needs to be blended, but in my experience, it will come together again by just mixing. And don't use wooden utensils like I did, I completely forgot and used wooden spoon, it kind of melted a bit before I've realised mistake.
When my HP came together it took maybe max 20mins to go through other stages until it reached fluffy mash potatoes and was ready to mold. And that's when I test for zap. At that stage I'm confident it won't zap.
I cool it slightly before adding fragrance, just in case.
Husband is using it straight away, it is safe to use, but HP soap is at it's best maybe after 2-3 weeks cure. When it stops feeling squishy it is almost completely cured and most of the water has evaporated.

 

[AlicesWonderhands]

Well, we made the soap. Loved it. Cant wait to make more. just did a soap calculator recipe, no idea what happened with the first batch, but I'm going to guess not enough lye though, considering how much i used for this batch. I split it up. The part I put oat milk in to seized up (i added cool milk to hot soap, DUH!) , but I got it in the mold fast, the other I added my coconut lavender oil (i make it , coconut oil in the sun with lavender buds) these two layers made the lavender oat milk bars, the others are a patchouli coffee soap that turned out AMAZING! I had a BLAST with this! They are still really soft, and I'm hoping cure out soon as I am moving and a bit tired of hauling them around. I thought I'd have em sold by now, but they weren't ready in time for the festival I made them for. Lovin it! Thank you!

 

[Hazel]

I look fwd to offering my friends and family quality soaps!

They are still really soft, and I'm hoping cure out soon as I am moving and a bit tired of hauling them around. I thought I'd have em sold by now, but they weren't ready in time for the festival I made them for.

You've only made 2 batches? The first you had to ask for help and the second you're selling? :shock:

I actually wrote a lot more than the above 2 sentences and then deleted it. I'm just too upset to be able to express my thoughts in a tactful manner. I feel all the time I have spent in the past writing about developing the best product and waiting to see how soap holds up over time has been wasted.

 

[Skatergirl46]

also, be prepared for separation when doing milk soap the hp way. no matter what milk, this always happens to me. nothing major tho, just give it your mighty stir or pull out the sb again to bring it together again. separation often happens during/after cook, when the batter is exposed to heat.

hp soap still needs a good cure, just like cp. why? coz with hp you use more water (usually 2.8-3:1 water:lye), and this excess water needs to evaporate so the soap is nice and hard.

I get the separation too. I just beat it back together and plop it in the mold. It even seems frothy, but I bang the mold on the counter as I'm filling it and that seems to help the soap settle and the bubbles pop somewhat.