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Janine

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can anyone tell me if this bar will be hard and long lasting tried so many formulas don't you go by liodin which mine is 38 lower to 0 side is better
 

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I doubt you will like the amount of coconut, most stay at 20% or below, castor only needs to be 5% to support lather, which is what castor is used for, I do use 45% palm in my vegan recipes. I would lower the CO to 20%, Palm 40%, Castor Oil 5%, Shea 10% and 25% Olive Oil or another liquid oil. It will make a long lasting bar but will trace quickly. I find palm as these percentages will trace quickly. I use the sb about 5 seconds and stir until trace. It will give you a hard bar that last a decent time. Another fyi about coconut oil, although it gives a hard bar it is very soluble and will not create a long lasting bar even in high percentages. I really think you will be happy with the soap if you try the percentages I listed. Only thing you may dislike is the faster tracing with the amount of palm. If you are not opposed to tallow or lard a 45/25 % tallow/lard makes a lovely bar
 
can anyone tell me if this bar will be hard and long lasting tried so many formulas don't you go by liodin which mine is 38 lower to 0 side is better

I just responded to the same question in your other post. But as cmzaha said, palm will trace quicker. If not opposed to Lard, it makes an awesome soap in place of palm.
 
so how much percentage of lard and do l replace palm oil to lard so l use all those percentage of what cmzaha explained but just replace palm with lard
 
Yes you can use lard at 45% I personally like it mixed with tallow if you have access to tallow or beef shortening from Walmart, but it is not necessary. Lard will definitely give you more work time.
 
Hi Janine,

I reckon it's a recipe that you could try and see if you like it (in that I would tweak it a little bit to suit me, if it were mine, but you might like it just as it is :)).

Unfortunately the default "water as percent of oil weight" in the calculator has given you too much water for this combination of oils - the olive uses a lot less sodium hydroxide to convert to soap, so it doesn't need as much water either (most of the calculators have this setting as the default, unfortunately, so it's a good habit to get into, to change it manually every time).

Choosing a lye concentration somewhere in the range of 30% to 33% will give you consistently good results.

The only other comment I would make is that this will make nearly 2 kilograms of soap, which is quite a bit for a recipe you are trying out (500 grams is a good amount if you have reasonably accurate scales - the stick blender can still be fully submerged into this amount of batter).
 
I agree with Salted Fig, 4 lbs of soap is a lot of soap if you do not like it. It also would not be one I would like much, but you may love it and will not know if you do not try it. I would also go with no more than 500g. For testing I use a 1 lb mold with approx 13oz of oils for testing new fragrances. If testing a recipe I tend to go with 8 oz oils
 
Wood Size(L x W x H): 28.50 x 9.00 x 8.50 cm
Silone insert Internal size:260x73x78mm(LxWxH)
makes a 1.2 kilo soap...
Maybe my calculations are wrong

Hi guys does this look better 500 gram batch which i dont have a mold for but will find somewhere
 

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Hi again Janine,

The total batch weight can still come down a little bit, so that your printout displays "Soap weight before CP cure or HP cook" shows 400 to 500 grams. This would be roughly 300 grams of oils, if that helps :)

The lye concentration can be changed under option 3 "Water" ... if you click on the "lye concentration" button, you can enter 30% (or whatever you have chosen). (26% really can be problematic in cold process soap)

Nearly forgot ... you can pour a shallower volume into the mould you have, and cut it in a different way. The other alternative is to glad-wrap a piece of cardboard (or similar) to act as a dam in your mould ... if you cut the cardboard to fit nicely, by the time you wrap it, it will be a squeeze and nearly water (soap) tight! :).

If this worries you, make a second "dam" and put the two in, with a small gap between them - the second dam will have little pressure against it, so whatever small leakage you might get past the first one is unlikely to get past the second one.
 
Soap weight before CP cure or HP cook saying 1,815.65 but l only want to have total weight of 12,000,00 which is my mold of 1.2 kilos l thought soap calc works it all out for you

lve lowered my oils to try and get a batch of 12,000 1.2 kilo mold lm hoping this is finally right
 

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Duplicating your questions in multiple threads is confusing.

You have answers in the other thread where you asked the same question: https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/newbie-1-2-kilo-mold.69952/#post-698123

Soap weight before CP cure or HP cook saying 1,815.65 but l only want to have total weight of 12,000,00 which is my mold of 1.2 kilos l thought soap calc works it all out for you

Soapee might be easier for you to use as a beginner. The calculations all occur on-the-fly and you don't have to go to a second page to see the result. It's all there on the same page. If you want you can make a change and the calculations change immediately. Just a thought.
 
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Hi Janine, Your recipe looks good to me but the bars won't be particularly hard, try using sodium lactate. Using cocoa butter in your recipe will add hardness and a silky feel to your soap as well. I also use a 2:1 lye ratio. Leaf lard makes the best moisturizing soap! You can also use babassu oil in place of coconut oil it is more gentle and creates lots of bubbles :)
 
l can always change my formula lve tried many formulas but never attempted making it yet what is leaf lard lm from Australia have no idea l have palm oil sweet almond oil not sure on lard

what if l chnage my oils will it make a difference

will it help if l substitute rice bran oil and add palm oil by 10%
 
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what if l chnage my oils will it make a difference
Leaf lard is the lard from around the kidneys of a pig. It is the creme de la creme of lard! Delicate and white mainly used for cooking. I get mine from Fannie & Flo. You can use regular lard that will make great soap. Believe it or not I use bear tallow also and it makes fantastic soap! Yes, you can change your oils. Have you made soap yet? I have several recipes I use and they are all good ones. I would't mind sharing them with you if you have an email address.

I would definitely reduce you RBO. Palm would be a good addition.
 
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will this work omg lm hopless

will l have a fast trace because of palm oil

Leaf lard is the lard from around the kidneys of a pig. It is the creme de la creme of lard! Delicate and white mainly used for cooking. I get mine from Fannie & Flo. You can use regular lard that will make great soap. Believe it or not I use bear tallow also and it makes fantastic soap! Yes, you can change your oils. Have you made soap yet? I have several recipes I use and they are all good ones. I would't mind sharing them with you if you have an email address.
[email protected]

Your recipe looks good if you want your cleansing # low. Unless you are wanting to do intricate designs I would not worry about palm speeding up your trace. The more hard oils you have, the faster trace. Your oils should be balanced for a good bar. Also discounting your water may speed trace, so you might want to do full water. I try to keep my INS around 160. Make a small batch to start with. Test your soap and see if you like it. Go from there.
 

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will this work omg lm hopless
It'll be a lot of work, but I would read back through the two recipe sections as well as the beginner section for 10 pages or so. Look at anything where feedback for a recipe is asked for.

People usually give a "why" when they give feedback on a recipe. You can use this as a basis to get a handle on the basic oils and what they bring and what various combinations will look like.

But also, when you post a recipe, tell us why you arrived at that particular mix of oils etc. What was YOUR "why" for that.
 
Try this one Janine.

There isn't enough palm in there to make it too fast, and the olive will counteract the speed anyway, so it should be nice and manageable.

The size is good for your first batch.

I say go for it! :nodding:
 
Hello guys l made my 1st batch totally had fun with it finger X it turns out fine
i used 2 natural color clays...

Forgot to ask will it be a medium hard bar came to 40 in hardness ?
 
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