My first soap making attempt :-)

Discussion in 'Beginners Soap Making Forum' started by Menny, Feb 10, 2019.

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  1. Feb 11, 2019 at 11:46 PM #21

    penelopejane

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    It is going to be lye heavy but it should eventually be ok.
    Do not zap test it.
    You should probably use gloves you touch it.
    According to my soap calculator what you have used at 33% lye concentration is about -35% SF. Negative 35%.
    Some olive oil soaps are made that way and they turn out very well after cure.
    So do not panic but wait patiently. It will be a lovely soap in the end I am sure.

    The way to work this out is to open soap calc and put your fixed parameters in-oils etc.
    Then change the superfat until you get to the point that the calculator tells you to put in 400g of water and 200g of NaOH. That will tell you how much SF you actually have.
    Try doing that for your first recipe.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019 at 11:57 PM
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  2. Feb 12, 2019 at 1:25 AM #22

    Dawni

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    In the meantime go make more soap! Hehehe
     
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  3. Feb 12, 2019 at 9:25 AM #23

    Menny

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    Third attempt for the last 36 hours :p
     

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  4. Feb 12, 2019 at 9:34 AM #24

    KiwiMoose

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    Hi Menny,

    Is there a reason you are only using the two oils? Have you thought about using different oils for the qualities they might bring to the recipe?
     
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  5. Feb 12, 2019 at 10:00 AM #25

    Menny

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    Well thats why am here, to learn :) and right now those are the only oils I know.... How or where can I learn about oils and each oil qualities? Can you advice me which oils to use for more foamy and bubbley oil?
     
  6. Feb 12, 2019 at 10:10 AM #26

    penelopejane

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    You've dropped your "lye concentration" down to 28. It would be better around 30% minimum so that your bars don't warp as they cure.
     
  7. Feb 12, 2019 at 11:58 AM #27

    shunt2011

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    You could try to rebatch the soap. But you'll need to play in the soap calculator and adjust your oils until you get the lye amount you used. Then grate the soap and put it in a crock pot with the extra oils then try to get it to come together. I hate to re-batch and have only done so once a long time ago. Also, you're making way too big a batch for a beginner. I wouldn't make more than 500g batch until you get the hang of it. That way if you have to toss it you're not out of a lot of supplies.
     
  8. Feb 12, 2019 at 6:43 PM #28

    Alfa_Lazcares

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    Soapcalc will give you a bit of info of each of the oils you select. Or just google “oil properties in soap”. You can use basically any oil you want.
     
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  9. Feb 12, 2019 at 7:22 PM #29

    Menny

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    Thanks everyone, yes I found in the net that page https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/qualities-of-soap-making-oils-517120https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/qualities-of-soap-making-oils-517120 and found out that Castor oil is a one who can give lots of cream and lather :) I'll use it too next batch.
    Now how long should I wait for cutting for my third attempt? Attached its details. And generaly, what parameters determine the time the soap needs to rest before cutting so that it would not be too hard?

    Is it looks ok?
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 13, 2019 at 7:37 AM
  10. Feb 12, 2019 at 7:41 PM #30

    penelopejane

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    You should try and spend some time reading recent posts on the forum to get good info on a lot of questions.

    You can cut soap when it feels like cheddar cheese. See zing’s reply post 19 this thread. Depending on the recipe and additives and lye concentration this can take 18-24 hours or a week. Yours may take a little longer because of the 28% lye concentration.
    Salt bars maybe 4 hours often while still hot.

    ^^^which soap is that?
    It looks good.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019 at 7:55 PM
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  11. Feb 12, 2019 at 7:52 PM #31

    Rogue-Soaper

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    I love your cheese analogy.

    I looks pretty. You can add sugar for more bubbles; however it does make the soap heat up, I do like the soaps that I have used sugar in. You could also try Castor oil, about 5 to 7 percent to increase the bubbles. It will help you get rich creamy lather. There are several websites showing the properties of oils, that may help you decide what oils to use. I like this one
    www.thesprucecrafts.com/qualities-of-soap-making-oils-517120
    I am so glad to see that you keep trying.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 13, 2019 at 7:38 AM
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  12. Feb 12, 2019 at 8:55 PM #32

    Menny

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    You mean white sugar ? Sugar we use for coffee ? and how do I determine the quantities of it ?
     
  13. Feb 12, 2019 at 9:38 PM #33

    Rogue-Soaper

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    Yes, white sugar. Add it to the water and make sure it is dissolved before you add the lye. You can use 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of sugar per pound (16 ounces) of oils, I usually use about 1/2 teaspoon per pound of oil.
     
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  14. Feb 12, 2019 at 10:08 PM #34

    Menny

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    Wow that's a great idea! I'll do it next batch, thank you Rouge-Soaper.

    I'll do it ;)
     
  15. Feb 12, 2019 at 10:50 PM #35

    Dean

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    Hi Menny.

    Here is a good article.

    For a well balanced soap I think you need about 4 oils:
    1. A latherer. Typically its CO at 15-20%. Too high and it will be stripping and drying.
    2. A lather sustainer. Typically castor 5%.
    3. A hardener/longevity provider. I recommend shooting very high on the calc's recommended range. I use soy wax because its cruelty and rainforest destroying palm-free. You can also use animal fat, sustainable palm, butters.
    4. A high oleic filler for the rest. I prefer almond because its rated highest on a single oil lather test. Olive oil and high oleic safflower are common alternatives.

    Each oil has fatty acids that have their own qualities. You want to become familiar with the acids. For example, CO is high lauric and myristic which lather but also strip. They also provide hardness. Pamitic and stearic also provide hardness as well as longevity. And so on...

    Google single oil soap test to see how the different oils perform.

    I wouldn't get too complicated at first in terms of number of oils. 4 is good.

    When formulating recipes I recommend that you do small test batches. I do two bar test batches. You use the bottom of a milk carton or buy cavity molds.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019 at 11:48 PM
  16. Feb 12, 2019 at 11:25 PM #36

    Dawni

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    Or 3.. Some don't use Castor with good results. Sugar is sometimes enough for bubbles in the meantime, until you get castor oil.

    Having said that. I've used soaps with only coconut and olive and they're good, too. But they'll take a while to cure. Google Bastille soap.. Or you can try Zany's no slime Castile if you're up for it :)
     
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  17. Feb 12, 2019 at 11:28 PM #37

    Dean

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    I agree that castor is not necessary. Some don't use it. Most do so I follow convention.;)
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019 at 11:36 PM
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  18. Feb 13, 2019 at 12:23 AM #38

    Menny

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    Thank you Dean, very informative and invested answer !!!
    For sections 3 and 4, what are the recomanded percentages of the oils that I should use?
    :thumbs:
    Thanks Dawni, I'll do it.
     
  19. Feb 13, 2019 at 12:38 AM #39

    Dawni

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    @Menny may I suggest doing a bit of reading? This sticky will also help you with most of your questions I'm sure.

    There are recommended percentages for every oil but they'll still vary depending on who is giving advice, so as a still new soaper, my advice is to do your research and do some test batches til you figure out what percentages work for you :)
     
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  20. Feb 13, 2019 at 1:08 AM #40

    Dean

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    The percentages are based on the oil you choose. They are not exactly interchangeable.

    In the calc, put in CO at 15-20. You're young so your skin can probably tolerate 20.
    Add castor at 5% if you want to use it.
    Choose your hard oil. Adjust the percentage in 5% increments until you get your hardness factor between about 50-54 %. I like a hard bar that doesn't turn to mush when gets small so I go hard.
    Choose your high oleic and just add that to make up the difference.

    Your oil choices will likely be based on availability in your country.

    Here is my recipe so you can see how it works.

    The calcs are fun to play with. I like soapee. SMF has a new one but I haven't used yet.

    I don't do designs so others can help with right amount liquid for fluidity.

    Another article on fatty acid profiles.
     

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