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Discussion in 'Lye-Based Soap Forum' started by songwind, Apr 22, 2013.
I see you used lard instead of tallow. Any reason for that?
Here I can find easily lard, but tallow is not so commonly used. I've rendered some goat and beef tallow for my experiments. Our ancestors used lard for soap for ages. So using lard is the most reasonable choice for me It is high in oleic acid and good for skin.
Sound like very good reasons to me...
Same thing in Spain. You can get good, cheap lard in supermarkets. You have to beg, steal or borrow tallow from the butcher (who now charges me) and render it, etc.
It will never be smooth. HP is usually more rustic. I make pucks in a silicone column mold and slice it for refills. I pour my soap into 8 oz low profile jars. I cure it
Don’t use aluminum pans or molds it will react with the soap and not be good.
Not every HP soap ends rustic. Never say never I do fluid HP, so it's quite smooth.
You could try smoothing the top with a damp finger. I do this with my CP soaps when they "Glop" into the molds.
I said usually. some have beautiful soaps. Most I see are more rustic, just my experience.
I have this PDS sheet. Posting it for everyone’s information.
Thank you for the advice.
I will pour it in glass or wooden jars next time. The aluminum gave them a "cheap" feel. I gave the samples to my test group ie friends, they all liked it. I am using it myself for sometime now, very good lather, above my expectations and I want that heavy thick cream, but, after the rinsing, I feel dry, too much cleansing properties. I was hoping that the last time coconut melt will be helpful for some conditioning, some superfatting, but alas. Anyway, all my friends found the product better than their commercial ones and asked me for different scented options. I told them that the most expensive part is the volatile components and I will be grateful if they send me the fragrance they wanted. I am guessing that any aftershave with alcohol can be inserted while the solution is cooling? any suggestions?
im not sure what your asking in regards to alcohol. Can you clarify.
I was wondering about the possible harmfull interactions between the alcohol and NaOH, and/or between the alcohol, the heat and the oils all together. At the end, there are lots of C molecules and some H2O in the aftershaves. Some oils can dissolve in alcohol and heat will change a lot of factors.
Are you taking about adding aftershave fo the soap? I wouldn’t, but that’s me. I prefer to use fragrances made for soap. Aftershave may not maintain its sent.
Hi All! Well after a very long absence from this forum ( too long a story ) I'm happy to be back. I wanted to make some shave soap and even though I have read this thread many many times over the years and made many many batches of it. Since I haven't made any soap at all in almost 2 years, I FORGOT WHAT TO DO!!! So I came here again to read. I thank all of you for your contributions to this wonderful thread. The knowledge is invaluable.
So with all of that being said. I need some advice. I have always made my shave soap in individual round molds as its was thick. But I would like this time to see of I can get it into a column mold without having to bang the hell out of it to make sure I don't have gaps I cant see. What is your best advice on which version I need to make to have it be a little more fluid. I'm using 80/20 Dual lye.
For use in a tall column mold you could add a little more water.
What has worked nice for me when using thick silicone and concrete for pouring was external vibration. A big electric back massager or an oscillating grinder work wonders when touched to the outside of a mold. The bubbles just magically work their way up.
Made a 200g total micro batch of a stearic acid, beef tallow, sheabutter and coconut oil shaving soap yesterday. Nice fast hot process with 100 KOH.
This particular recipe was from a German forum, but thanks again for this thread here that helped me learn a lot about shaving soap.
br & HTH
I use pringles cans with the base cut off and the cap placed on the bottom and fixed with tape.
When I put the soap in, which is pretty dense by the time I start to slip it in there, with a mixture of light tapping of the can on the table top, a bit of pressure with a spoon on the top of the soap and generally jiggling about, it comes out a couple of days later without any big holes or gaps.
Are you using dual
Lye or just KOH?
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