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My first color....epic fail

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Jeanea

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Ok so this is my second and third batch of soap. I had trouble because the fo I used from hobby lobby seized on me so I had to quickly force it into the mold. Epic fail, they are not cute at all. I used color from wsp that came free with my order. I was unsure how to add it, so I mixed it in part of my oils but it just seemed to float around. The color was Apple red. This it's what I got. My third batch is still in the mold, not sure if I should take it out. After I poured I put them in the oven at 170, turned the oven off and left over night. However it still seems soft.

The first batch is 41.67% canola, 29.1% co, 12.5% oo, 16.67 shea. 5% sf. Add kaolin, castor, tried sugar in my lye but didn't mix in just stuck to the bottom of my bowl, I poured it anyway. Put it in a warm oven preheated to 170, turned off and left over night. I took a few out, it's hard on top, but soft everywhere else.


I did the zap test, it didn't sting or burn, but I felt something, just not discomfort. The lather from some that chipped off was great.

Second batch is 35% canola, 25% co, 10% cb, 10% castor 20% oo.
Second batch is is still in the mold, it out it in the oven over night as well. Still seemed soft.


My kitchen smells great, scent was plumeria and lotus blossom.

Even though they didn't turn out well I'm ready to jump back in, but have to wait for my shipment. Ran out of oils.

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Obsidian

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Floral scents are known for causing acceleration or seize. As long as the soap set and doesn't zap, don't worry about how it looks. What kind of color was it? Some has to be dissolved in water, some in oil. Sounds likes yours needed to be dissolved in water, then added at trace. You also need to make sure its a color thats safe for CP soap, some are made only for use in melt and pour.

When using sugar, you dissolve it in the water then add the lye slowly so it doesn't overheat. Yours soaps probably just weren't ready to be unmolded. When using molds like yours, let the soap stay in the molds for 2-3 days.

I would also recommend you use more olive oil, less canola. The more experienced people will say to keep canola to 10% or under. If you really hate your bars, you could always rebatch.
 

Jeanea

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Ok...thanks for the input. I was just practicing making the soap as well and canola was a cheap choice. The color was a free sample powder from wholesale supplies plus. It don't say which powder. I got two of theses, so I played around with it. I also wanted to get familiar with playing with the lye calc to create my own recipes. I saw a video on column swirls that I want to try, so gotta get this coloring thing down.

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Jeanea

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My hands still look good from testing the lather:). They where bone dry and white as a ghost before I washed my hands with it.
 

Jeanea

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I missed all that in the excitement of making soap. But I still achieved the pastel color it mentioned. Live and learn. It's just for me, this is practice soap, but fun...lol
 

maloga3

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I have been having trouble mixing the colorant into the oil too...bought a tiny battery operated mini mixer which soapqueen uses
(check out her free tutorials on you tube and soapqueen.com)
those scents sound terrific!
 

cmzaha

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I would also recommend you use more olive oil, less canola. The more experienced people will say to keep canola to 10% or under. If you really hate your bars, you could always rebatch.[/QUOTE]

Check out the Canolive recipes on this website. They use equal OO and Canola, plus coconut oil. It makes a beautiful mild bar of soap and I have kept one for over a year and it is still good. No rancidy
 
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