Can I use aloe juice and hydrosols for dilution or is it strictly distilled water?Superfat Time!
Once the soap looks like the soap in the last picture in the above post, it's good and ready to be stirred and super-fatted with Meadowfoam Seed Oil/PS80.
To super-fat, I must first figure out the weight of the soap in my jar since I will be super-fatting it as per my finished soap’s weight (which is a 2.052% S/F, btw). Technically, although I could just super-fat it as per the paste's weight of my dilution (which as was stated in post #1 turns out to be 3% of the paste's weight), I rather like to figure it as per the finished soap's weight at the end, because I never know how much of the soap may have been left behind when I opened the jar to stir or stick-blend during dilution.
To figure out how much soap is in my jar without having to pour it out, I first weigh the covered jar of soap on my scale, and then I subtract from it the weight of the empty jar w/cover that I had jotted down earlier at the very beginning.
Once I have figured out how much soap I have, I multiply it by 2.053% to come up with the weight of Meadowfoam super-fat to add. Then I multiply the Meadowfoam's weight by 3% to calculate how much PS80 to mix with it in order to solubize it into my soap. You can go higher on the PS80 if you need to, but I've found 3% of the Meadowfoam Seed Oil is all that I need. For what it's worth, I weigh these 2 things out on my small Jenning's scale, which can weigh things accurately in very small increments.
You can use a different super-fatting oil of your choice other than Meadowfoam if you want, but as I stated earlier, I like to use Meadowfoam because it's very high in anti-oxidants and is one of the most (if not the most) shelf-stable of all vegetable oils on the planet, which comes in especially handy for the super-fatting task at hand, since it has not had the benefit of reacting head-on with the full brunt of the lye. If your extra superfatting oil happens to be very fragile, your finished soap might not have as long of a shelf-life as mine seems to have with the Meadowfoam. For what it's worth, my finished, superfatted liquid soap stays lovely for at least over a year. And I don't use preservatives.
Once the oil and PS80 have been calculated, weighed out and mixed together, I then open my jar and stir the mixture into the soap. No heat and no stick-blending is needed for this step. Just stir it right in.
This is what it should look like in the end:
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At this point you can either decant some (or all) into a beaker to scent and then package into pump-bottles or squeeze-bottles, or else cover the jar and store at room temp indefinitely until needed.
To scent, I like to add anywhere from .3% to 1% scent as per the weight of my decanted soap. The question of how much fragrance to add depends on the following two factors: 1) the maximum usage rate of the chosen scent as per the manufacturer’s recommendation, and 2) its particular strength (i.e., how strong it smells).
Once the amount of scent has been calculated and weighed out, I then mix it with an equal amount of PS80 before stirring it into the decanted soap (to emulsify). Again- no heat is needed for this part. Just stir in right in, pour the soap into your chosen bottle, and enjoy!
For what it's worth, this is my absolute favorite liquid soap to use...... and my family's, too.
okay dont know why this soap is taking so long? it frothing. and thickening slowly this happen before with my MP soap? but it should take this long? ... I measured everything to the T wired i even go the bubbles ..You most certainly can if you are in a hurry.
Irish lass has generously detailed the exact procedure to make liquid soap using a stress free method.
You changed the process and now wonder why it didn’t work.
Start again and follow Irish lass’s procedure to the letter.