Might get into this.

SoapMakingForum

Help Support SoapMakingForum:

Renraw9002

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
16
Reaction score
12
Location
North Carolina
Most of the ones she has says they can be used topically, but should be mixed with carrier oils. They're Doterra brand mostly if that helps.
 

penelopejane

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2015
Messages
5,323
Reaction score
4,006
Location
Sth Coast, NSW, Australia
Most of the ones she has says they can be used topically, but should be mixed with carrier oils. They're Doterra brand mostly if that helps.
Topical ones should be ok. They are going to be hugely expensive to use in soap because you need to use them at about 4% and the vast majority of them fade really quickly so it's a bit of a waste in soap.
 

TheGecko

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
787
Reaction score
921
Location
Oregon
"Renraw9002, post: 790406, member: 34015"]I'll likely only ever make 1lb batches since I don't think even my wife will use anything I make so I'm sure even a 1lb batch will last me a good long time, but still good advice for sure.
My 1lb mold gives me 4 bars of soap.

A fairly decent beginning recipe:

EC460A85-BA61-42DA-8616-C49449AF41A9.png

I rounded the weights since I resized it. It’s what I started with though I have now adjusted it to include Cocoa and Shea Butters.

I would start with an unscented soap since you have more sensitive skin and let it cure a full six weeks. Surprisingly, my husband likes cantaloupe. My preference is Black Raspberry Vanilla Goat Milk Soap and I made a killer batch this weekend.

Guess now's as good a time as any to ask this by the way. Where on earth do people buy the oils and butters? I mean lye, distilled water, CO, and OO are easy enough to come by, but where would you go for pure shea butter or pure avocado oil?
I get my Olive and Coconut Oil from Costco, and if my Avocado Oil experiments works out, I will buy it from there also. But I got my first bottle from the ‘oil’ aisle at the local grocery store. I get my Cocoa and Shea Butters from Rustic Escentuals, and Palm and Castor Oils from Brambleberry. I am looking at getting a new supplier for Palm Oil as I want a ‘no-stir’ oil.

Where I purchase my Essential Oils, Fragrance Oils, Micas, Clays, Oxides, etc vary as do additives. I only buy small quantities the first time I use something new...a little speedy up front, but a savings if I don’t like it. Currently I buy from Brambleberry, Rustic Escentuals, BeScented and Nurture Soap.

Oh...and I get my Sodium Hydroxide from Amazon, Essential Depot brand.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jennifer Horne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2019
Messages
83
Reaction score
100
Location
Tennessee
I get my OO at sams club and castor oil,lye, palm, shea and coco butters from essential depot on amazon, FO and micas from nurture soap and natures garden
 

cmzaha

Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Messages
10,976
Reaction score
9,686
Location
Southern California
There is pharmaceutical grade, food grade, cosmetic grade (lips and skin safe) and non skin safe products which include artists clays.
At least here in the US Cosmetic grade oils are mixed oils that make up the fatty acid profile of the main oil such as Avocado Oil. Soapers Choice sells some Cosmetics grade oils.

Probably not bc most of those are therapeutic grade and not body safe
I really think you are confusing EO's with non-body safe FO's. Maybe I am incorrect but I have not heard of non-safe body EO's other than restricted usage EO's per FDA. There are certainly burning fragrance oils that are not body safe.
 

Jennifer Horne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2019
Messages
83
Reaction score
100
Location
Tennessee
At least here in the US Cosmetic grade oils are mixed oils that make up the fatty acid profile of the main oil such as Avocado Oil. Soapers Choice sells some Cosmetics grade oils.


I really think you are confusing EO's with non-body safe FO's. Maybe I am incorrect but I have not heard of non-safe body EO's other than restricted usage EO's per FDA. There are certainly burning fragrance oils that are not body safe.

Doterra oils are for burning and diffusers, i was a doterra sales agent for two years but if anyone wants to waste the money, as they are pricey and soap with them go ahead.
 

Deb Walker

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2019
Messages
15
Reaction score
19
Location
Australia
A multilevel company (think it was DoTerra) came up with a sales term, "for therapeutic use" this implies that "other" essential oils may not be. Herbs are either organic or not, or wildcrafted or not (any herb that is wildcrafted has far higher medicinal qualities - not that planted herbs don't have therapeutic benefit). Oils from these are either pure or not pure.

Because of the aggressive marketing strategies by multilevel marketing groups many people have some confusion over what can be used. Its all about money and justifying the extraordinary high prices multilevel marketing companies charge.

DoTerra like other ML companies say their oils are the best in the world - well... good marketing but there are many other companies that do good oils and I have found several issues with theirs (eg Peppermint is refined and Lang lang should always be labelled as 1st 2nd or 3rd press) so this puts a question mark over things I don't know - not that this is an issue with soap making.
If you are very sick and are using Aromatherapy to get better, yes find the best, but I'm not going to concern myself unnecessarily when using EO as a soap additive. A company I buy from sells bottles between 10ml and 5 Litres. They are happy to show you their chemical profile tests they take of their oils (to satisfy them that they are pure). It is far cheaper to buy this way. So just because an outlet sells in bulk - or bigger bottles, doesn't mean they are not pure oils.
Even so, my EO price doubles the cost of the soap ingredients (I only use basics) which I am still happy with.

I have read the marketing advice from an Australian government initiative recommending Australian companies only sell in small bottles so they can charge higher prices

Essential oils enter the body easiest via the lungs, this is why it is called aromatherapy - smelling them works best, so diffusers are used. Using them on your skin also works. All essential oils work this way, its not company specific. Essential oils in soap do have an effect and it is positive (outside of allergies etc).

Yes, there seems to be confusion between Essential oils and Fragrances (because of perfumers secrecy laws there is no requirement to show what chemicals are in them and many do have toxic chemicals).
 

Renraw9002

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
16
Reaction score
12
Location
North Carolina
Oof maybe I should come here more often.
Topical ones should be ok. They are going to be hugely expensive to use in soap because you need to use them at about 4% and the vast majority of them fade really quickly so it's a bit of a waste in soap.
I doubt they will hold up but i guess its worth a try
Doterra oils are for burning and diffusers, i was a doterra sales agent for two years but if anyone wants to waste the money, as they are pricey and soap with them go ahead.
Thank you all. I was still on the fence about using them. I did a lot of googling and saw both sides of the argument for and against using doterra, but the biggest deterrent is definitely price. I suppose it's time for an update.

I got two 42oz silicone loaf olds from Amazon, made a wooden frame to hold them steady and love them. Best purchase ever.

I also bought some titanium dioxide and black mica cause I wanted to try a black and white swirl. I made a batch for my mother that's eucalyptus scented (her choice) for a Christmas present and attempted the swirl. It came out... ok-ish. When I cut it up into bars it's definitely sorta swirly inside. So I come bearing more questions.

What's the proper way to use titanium dioxide and black mica? I'm not positive I did it right.

I attempted, unsuccessfully (twice), to make a cutter, planer, and beveler with leftover wood and wire I have lieing around. I just can't seem to keep the wire taut enough to plane soap without snapping it. Guess I need an actual blade for that operation.

On a positive note I've been using my first real batch for a few weeks now. My acne is gone, my skin is almost as smooth as a baby's behind, and my back doesn't itch like a bear's every night. I'm still a hairy man beast so the back itching is unavoidable, but it's definitely lessened. I'm officially hooked on making my own soap.

I also gave a couple bars to my brother-in-law who has a worse skin condition than I do and he called me the other day to say how much he loves the soap too. This is impressive in itself cause he's usually a giant grouch.
 

TheGecko

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
787
Reaction score
921
Location
Oregon
What's the proper way to use titanium dioxide and black mica? I'm not positive I did it right.
It would help to know how you 'did it' to be able to properly advise you. With that said, first...it your TD water or oil soluble? Mine is water and I have it premixed in a bottle (previous lesson learned); I use 1 tea TD to 1 Tab Distilled Water and shake the bottle well before using. How much I use is dependent on 1) the natural color of my oils/butters, and 2) how 'white' I want the soap to be. And don't forget that TD will accelerate trace and it has to be stick blended in. When it comes to black...I just used Activated Charcoal for the first time and despite what I heard about it, that it doesn't come out truly black, mine did. Of course, there was an accidental spillage and I didn't gel. :) I was told for a true 'black', you should mix Black Oxide and AC together (I would recommend dispersing in oil first).
 

Renraw9002

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
16
Reaction score
12
Location
North Carolina
It would help to know how you 'did it' to be able to properly advise you. With that said, first...it your TD water or oil soluble? Mine is water and I have it premixed in a bottle (previous lesson learned); I use 1 tea TD to 1 Tab Distilled Water and shake the bottle well before using. How much I use is dependent on 1) the natural color of my oils/butters, and 2) how 'white' I want the soap to be. And don't forget that TD will accelerate trace and it has to be stick blended in. When it comes to black...I just used Activated Charcoal for the first time and despite what I heard about it, that it doesn't come out truly black, mine did. Of course, there was an accidental spillage and I didn't gel. :) I was told for a true 'black', you should mix Black Oxide and AC together (I would recommend dispersing in oil first).
It says it disperses well in oil or water, but I weighed out my distilled water then took out 2 Tsb to 2 tsp titanium dioxide, heated the water a bit, then mixed the TD in the hot water, then put it in half of my oil/ butter mixture. I repeated this for the black mica, but I don't think it worked as well. It came out more grayish than black.
 

TheGecko

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
787
Reaction score
921
Location
Oregon
It says it disperses well in oil or water, but I weighed out my distilled water then took out 2 Tsb to 2 tsp titanium dioxide, heated the water a bit, then mixed the TD in the hot water, then put it in half of my oil/ butter mixture. I repeated this for the black mica, but I don't think it worked as well. It came out more grayish than black.
I use room temp distilled water for my TD, Oxides and Clays and whatever oil for my Micas. Unless I’m doing a single color with Mica and then I had it dry to my oils.
 

Latest posts

Top