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Jaypee

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Napier, New Zealand
Hi All. This has probably been asked before, but I note on You Tube videos that alot of posters pre-mix their white. When mentioned it seems it's titanium oxide that they used. So Q1. What is it mixed with? Q2. Is Mica & Titanium Oxide different? Q3. Why would you not re-mix all your base colours (I've noted lots of wastage)? Q4.What's the difference between Black Charcoal and Black Mica? Many thanks
 
They make water and oil TD. I use the mix with water and do pre mix a small bottle. I also have the oil type and mix it with either olive or glycerin. I personally have trouble with clumping with the oil one. Micas can be pre mixed as well. I choose to just add them as I need them with a bit of my oils from my batch. The difference between charcoal and mica is just that. One is charcoal and one is lab created. I use both.
 
Welcome, Jaypee! :wave:

When mentioned it seems it's titanium oxide that they used.

Specifically, titanium dioxide.

Q1. What is it mixed with?

Like Shari said^^^ it depends what kind of titanium dioxide it is. There are a few kinds- either water dispersible, oil dispersible, or the kind that disperses well in either water or oil. For what it's worth, you can disperse any of them in glycerin if you are not sure what kind you have (i.e., glycerin works well with all of them).

Q2. Is Mica & Titanium Oxide different?

Yes- from what I understand, micas are mined from silicate minerals (or can be created in the lab), and oxides naturally come from metals such as iron (although they too might be able to be created in a lab- though I'm not 100% sure. Will have to check on that). Anyway, I've found that it normally takes much more mica to get a good color in my soap in comparison to oxides.

Q3. Why would you not re-mix all your base colours (I've noted lots of wastage)?

I'm not sure whether I'm understanding your question correctly in regards to seeing lots of wastage. Did you mean to ask why would someone pre-mix all their colorants (in bulk squirt bottles), or why would someone not pre-mix all their colorants (in bulk squirt bottles), i.e. mix them fresh from powdered for each batch?

If the latter, I can answer that question quite easily since I don't pre-mix any of my colorants in squirt bottles. I mix them fresh from powdered for each batch. And because I learned through trial and error (whilst taking lots of notes) in my beginning years of soap-making how much of each powdered colorant worked in my batches to my liking, there's no wastage at all.

Q4.
What's the difference between Black Charcoal and Black Mica? Many thanks

Charcoal is derived from heating/charring plant material, and as I stated above, mica in its natural state is from silicate minerals mined from rock, but can also be created in the lab.


IrishLass :)
 
Welcome, Jaypee! :wave:



Specifically, titanium dioxide.



Like Shari said^^^ it depends what kind of titanium dioxide it is. There are a few kinds- either water dispersible, oil dispersible, or the kind that disperses well in either water or oil. For what it's worth, you can disperse any of them in glycerin if you are not sure what kind you have (i.e., glycerin works well with all of them).



Yes- from what I understand, micas are mined from silicate minerals (or can be created in the lab), and oxides naturally come from metals such as iron (although they too might be able to be created in a lab- though I'm not 100% sure. Will have to check on that). Anyway, I've found that it normally takes much more mica to get a good color in my soap in comparison to oxides.



I'm not sure whether I'm understanding your question correctly in regards to seeing lots of wastage. Did you mean to ask why would someone pre-mix all their colorants (in bulk squirt bottles), or why would someone not pre-mix all their colorants (in bulk squirt bottles), i.e. mix them fresh from powdered for each batch?

If the latter, I can answer that question quite easily since I don't pre-mix any of my colorants in squirt bottles. I mix them fresh from powdered for each batch. And because I learned through trial and error (whilst taking lots of notes) in my beginning years of soap-making how much of each powdered colorant worked in my batches to my liking, there's no wastage at all.



Charcoal is derived from heating/charring plant material, and as I stated above, mica in its natural state is from silicate minerals mined from rock, but can also be created in the lab.


IrishLass :)

I'm not sure whether I'm understanding your question correctly in regards to seeing lots of wastage. Did you mean to ask why would someone pre-mix all their colorants (in bulk squirt bottles), or why would someone not pre-mix all their colorants (in bulk squirt bottles), i.e. mix them fresh from powdered for each batch?

What I mean is I note colour mixes using small cups & often not all the colour is used. If premixed bottle quantities were used, then wastage is avoided. I have since realised that lighter colours are created in the cups. Here in New Zealand mica is quite expensive at $5 for 10 grams. Moulds are very expensive too with a loaf mould fetching $85.00.
 
What I mean is I note colour mixes using small cups & often not all the colour is used. If premixed bottle quantities were used, then wastage is avoided. I have since realised that lighter colours are created in the cups. Here in New Zealand mica is quite expensive at $5 for 10 grams. Moulds are very expensive too with a loaf mould fetching $85.00.

Try: my mica obsession for more reasonable mica prices: $3.95 AUD for 20g (not as good as in the US, though). Look at her blog link for some tested colours. Unfortunately you have to test most of them yourself or ask here as I have bought and tested a few. The colour on the web is not the colour you get in CP soap. I am encouraging her to do some sample blocks and put them in her site.

Activated charcoal is a natural product and cheap!
Some micas are natural but generally only very dull colour ones. Most have colour added in the lab. There are different types/grades: lip safe, eye safe, body safe.
Work out what you want to use.

Do testers first 2tsp ppo is going to be the right amount for deep colour. 1tsp ppo for a bit paler colour for a starting point.

We don't get sales on molds here.
If you want cheap molds look on eBay or make a timber one and line it or use a lunch box and line it or use a silicone cake tin.
 
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Hi Jaypee, welcome to the forum. I'm from NZ as well :) if you have time take a look at the Kiwi Soapmakers FB group. It's a great place to find information on where to get supplies in NZ.
 
I use small squirt bottles to premix my micas in. I put a couple of small stainless steel ball bearings in and just give it a shake before using. That way I can ad as much or as little as I need and there is no wastage. And I also second Ebay for moulds. Thats where I have gotten most of mine from. Or you can make them from wood yourself and line them with either baking paper or thin cutting boards or you could even do what I did with a couple of mine and apply a thin coat of silicone to the wooden moulds itself to create no-line moulds. I used roofing silicone for mine as we have heaps of the stuff at home
 
http://micasandmore.com/ charges $3.00 for 1 oz which is 28.3 g and her micas are great

Which is about $4 NZD and with shipping costs (plus shipping times) to NZ it all becomes a bit more costly. It would be great to have as many suppliers as the USA but with only 4.5million people I guess there just isn't the demand here.
 
http://micasandmore.com/ charges $3.00 for 1 oz which is 28.3 g and her micas are great

Which is about $4 NZD and with shipping costs (plus shipping times) to NZ it all becomes a bit more costly. It would be great to have as many suppliers as the USA but with only 4.5million people I guess there just isn't the demand here.
 
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